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Milltek Exhuast Problem (Knocking)

Oldskoolhero

Active Member
Jun 18, 2014
22
0
Brighton
Hi Folks

Wonder if anyone could give me advice or recommend any thing?

I've recently had lowering shocks and springs, 18" wheels and a milltek exhaust fitted.

No I'm happy with everything, the looks ride etc, however with our road here in Brighton I'm finding the exhaust is knocking on the rear Axel. I've taken it to the local garage and they have said they've tried to move it to make it better but to no avail.

Has anyone had similar and fixed it or is there something i can fix to it to stop it?

Thanks in adavnce
 
I've got a miltek cat back on mine and there's no noise at all. If memory serves are there not two miltek versions; one for cars with xenons and one for those without ? There must be difference between them somewhere and it could be a modification to avoid the tilt sensor on the axle. Just a thought.
 
Oldskoolhero said:
Hi Folks

Wonder if anyone could give me advice or recommend any thing?

I've recently had lowering shocks and springs, 18" wheels and a milltek exhaust fitted.

No I'm happy with everything, the looks ride etc, however with our road here in Brighton I'm finding the exhaust is knocking on the rear Axel. I've taken it to the local garage and they have said they've tried to move it to make it better but to no avail.

Has anyone had similar and fixed it or is there something i can fix to it to stop it?

Thanks in adavnce
Click to expand...

I had the exact same problem.
It's a common issue with milltek and lowering.
I fixed it with a stronger engine mount: http://www.powerflex.co.uk/road-series/product-details/Lower+Engine+Mount+Large+Bush/2065.html
and a couple of exhaust mounts.
All from powerflex.
You can choose between track & road use (yellow or purple).
 
You'll need to install poly bushes in the exhaust mounts and twist the exhaust to maximise the clearance.
 
Mine done the same, you don't need to change an engine mount, that will make no difference at all,also you don't need new hangers. the xenon and non xenon exhausts are the same, there is just a bracket included with the xenon exhaust to move the level sensor out the way.

To sort this it just comes down to adjusting the exhaust. It needs all the joints loosening and the center section between the dp and rear box needs rotating clockwise so it increases the hight between the exhaust and rear beam. If you do that correctly that will sort it.
 
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It's possible it's a different case but my problem which was exactly what OP is describing was solved with the lower engine and a couple of exhaust mounts.
My problem, the exhaust banging on the rear axle, was happening in two cases.
Firstly when the car accelerated, this caused the weight to shift and transfer to rear side so the exhaust would bang. The stronger engine mount solved this first issue.
Secondly when I hit a pothole, the exhaust was hitting the rear axle so stronger exhaust mounts solved my second issue.

@turboboy You can't say the mounts will do no difference to the OPs problem unless you have inspected his car yourself. It solved my problem so it could work for him IF it's the same issue.
However the smartest thing to do is try all the options that are free first and then if it won't work out go buy something. So OP could try what you're suggesting before anything else. However OP's saying that they've tried different positions but to no avail.
 
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;) took that kinda personally didnt you.

Some people's answer is to take it to a local garage/tuner and throw money at them to fix a problem.

Ok he could fix the problem by doing so also, or...... He could fix it by not taking it to his tuner/local garage. The milltek will bang about if its not adjusted correctly end of... It took a few goes at mine to get it right. I found doing as I suggested above made the most difference and gave me the rear beam clearance I needed.

Lets leave it to the OP to see if they want to take your throw money at it approach or the adjusting the exhaust correctly approach.

I fitted my whole exhaust myself along with all the other modifications ive had on my ibiza, I know how it fits and the problems that arise with fitment, I've not paid people to build my car for me.
 
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You're suggesting something that OP has already tried and you keep on suggesting it.
I explained in my last post exactly how the stronger mounts are going to help.
How personally I took it goes to your saying that mounts won't make a difference, but I had this issue and I solved it like I described, but I must be certainly imagining it right? :rolleyes:
You're on HR springs maybe that's the reason why you got enough clearance just by moving the exhaust. I'm on KW v1 lowered about 5cm, we tried moving my exhaust but no matter what we couldn't solve it, until we fitted stronger mounts.
Don't put words in my mouth, I didn't say anything about going to a shop, if OP can/want to do it he can fit stronger mounts himself and he's going to spend a whooping 34 pounds for the stronger dogbone mount and about 7 pounds for each exhaust mount.
I've fitted a few things myself, paid for others, like a lot of people here who either don't have the necessary knowledge or don't have the time to do it. That's neither a bad thing nor does it prove that they cannot offer a solution that worked for them on a problem.
 
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turboboy said:
;) took that kinda personally didnt you.

Some people's answer is to take it to a local garage/tuner and throw money at them to fix a problem.

Ok he could fix the problem by doing so also, or...... He could fix it by not taking it to his tuner/local garage. The milltek will bang about if its not adjusted correctly end of... It took a few goes at mine to get it right. I found doing as I suggested above made the most difference and gave me the rear beam clearance I needed.

Lets leave it to the OP to see if they want to take your throw money at it approach or the adjusting the exhaust correctly approach.

I fitted my whole exhaust myself along with all the other modifications ive had on my ibiza, I know how it fits and the problems that arise with fitment, I've not paid people to build my car for me.
Click to expand...

I don't have the knowledge equipment or time to do it, so it is a case of throwing money at my local garage lol

But thanks anyway its good advice

Jez
 
queen said:
You're suggesting something that OP has already tried and you keep on suggesting it.
I explained in my last post exactly how the stronger mounts are going to help.
How personally I took it goes to your saying that mounts won't make a difference, but I had this issue and I solved it like I described, but I must be certainly imagining it right? :rolleyes:
You're on HR springs maybe that's the reason why you got enough clearance just by moving the exhaust. I'm on KW v1 lowered about 5cm, we tried moving my exhaust but no matter what we couldn't solve it, until we fitted stronger mounts.
Don't put words in my mouth, I didn't say anything about going to a shop, if OP can/want to do it he can fit stronger mounts himself and he's going to spend a whooping 34 pounds for the stronger dogbone mount and about 7 pounds for each exhaust mount.
I've fitted a few things myself, paid for others, like a lot of people here who either don't have the necessary knowledge or don't have the time to do it. That's neither a bad thing nor does it prove that they cannot offer a solution that worked for them on a problem.
Click to expand...

Mines on the same too, was on H&R lowering spring, but that was even worse!!!
 
I'm not on H&R springs, I've been on v1's ,bilstein b14's and now on st's (made by and exactly the same as v1). I don't and havnt updated my readers ride for a very long time.

You have a good way with words queen, seems to give you an answer for everything.
 
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