Should I change these for after market ones after getting the car mapped? If I should, what advantages could I achieve please.
2004 Cupra 1.8t
2004 Cupra 1.8t
N75 Valve and Forge 007 Valve upgrades
- Thread starter Pudders_
- Start date
Leave the N75 valve alone, you will see best results with the standard one..
The Forge 007p is a very good DV to replce the OEM Bosch unit with. The Bosch ones are prone to failure sue to them being a diaghragm type, the 007p is a piston type that is serviceable (sp?).
You will not see any advantage from doing this apart from knowing that you will never get any DV problems again..
The Forge 007p is a very good DV to replce the OEM Bosch unit with. The Bosch ones are prone to failure sue to them being a diaghragm type, the 007p is a piston type that is serviceable (sp?).
You will not see any advantage from doing this apart from knowing that you will never get any DV problems again..
Would there be that annoying (my opinion!) pssshhh sound like the scoobies? And do I need to decide what spring to have fitted or is this a totally different issue?
No extra sound as the 1.8T runs a closed loop Diverter Valve, not a "dump valve".
The excess boost is diverted back into the intack track instead of dumped the atmosphere..
You will get some sound from the DV (even from the OEM Bosch one) by fitting a open cone air filter.
The excess boost is diverted back into the intack track instead of dumped the atmosphere..
You will get some sound from the DV (even from the OEM Bosch one) by fitting a open cone air filter.
oldskool
Guest
I found the best spring rate with the 007p when running Stg 2 Revo on an LC is with the Green spring and 2 Shims.
Not far off the pressure loading of the standard (new) Bosch unit as I spring load tested them both in comparison, it's important to note the spring is not holding pressure it's affecting the reaction against the diverted boost, so on boost the spring is fully in it's sprung rest position then is compressed when the excess charge air pushes the valve piston in/open and the air is diverted back into the intake pipe, so the spring is just affecting the reaction of the valve back to it's on boost rest position, so if you had too stiff a spring without running the boost it will not function properly, it really helps fine tune the crispness of the reaction diverting the unused air, any bofs correct me.
Not far off the pressure loading of the standard (new) Bosch unit as I spring load tested them both in comparison, it's important to note the spring is not holding pressure it's affecting the reaction against the diverted boost, so on boost the spring is fully in it's sprung rest position then is compressed when the excess charge air pushes the valve piston in/open and the air is diverted back into the intake pipe, so the spring is just affecting the reaction of the valve back to it's on boost rest position, so if you had too stiff a spring without running the boost it will not function properly, it really helps fine tune the crispness of the reaction diverting the unused air, any bofs correct me.
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oldskool
Guest
would the green plus 2 shims be slightly stiffer than a yellow and would you achieve the same result with a yellow and just one spring?-
I tested that and the Green with 2 shims places it exactly between green and yellow load wise, I tried both and found this to be best.
I wouldn't bother with the 007p
The Bosch unit is perfectly fine and you don't have to service it or change the springs if you up your power.
The Bosch unit is perfectly fine and you don't have to service it or change the springs if you up your power.
The Forge unit gives a far cleaner operation it's a far superior part, the OE valve bleeds boost due to the diaphragm lifting unevenly due to it being rubber and it's design, plus there is no need to change the springs this is purely for fine tuning FOR THE PERFORMANCE MINDED! You don't need to change anything on these cars but there's no denying there are modifications that make it better than OE this being one of them FACT!!!
Perhaps you can explain why BT cars run OEM dvs with no problems? 1.5 bar?
Id disagree that a piston beats a diaphram, pistons stick and therefore it wont be reliable unless serviced. OE valve needs nothing and will last years.
Interesting thought... with all of the check dv! leak issues could it be the metal dvs expanding? I had a bailey that failed due to heat causing it to stick.
If you still want better than oem have a look at the APR R1, no sticking or servicing issues, but the oem valve will manage fine at remapped pressures as long as its not damaged.
new oem dv's are fine , will run all the day also done logs to back up this fact, while 007p is good , the oem ones are just as good in the early years they where pants but it's much improved now, vw/audi dv valves are now made kaiser which seems to be really good , on k03s turbo held 1.1bar at redline , which really is about all you gonna get from k03s
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