PD150 Starting issue, smoke on start up and idle

brett1223

Active Member
Dec 15, 2012
77
0
Durham
Looking for a bit of help with an ongoing issue i have with my Mk1 Leon FR+ PD150....

I'm going to go into a bit of detail about the problem as it's getting to the point where I'm loosing faith in the car so sorry if this turns into a bit of a long winded story.

I bought the car in January this year on 127k miles. Having had PD150's in the past, i knew all of the common problems and doing 30k per year, it's ideal to munch up the motorway miles. Last year it had a lot of work and i have have receipts for the dreaded cam issue, cambelt, water pump, glow plugs, head gasket, and plenty more, so having all of this replaced, i thought i was onto a winner.

Two weeks after buying the car, it started getting a bit sluggish on start up on a morning so new battery, starter motor and all earths were cleaned up which helped the issue but didn't fix it. The intercooler pipes were in a poor state and the inlet side was actually screwed into the intercooler so i got a new OEM intercooler, Darkside hard pipe kit and Darkside EGR delete. Had the car remapped with the EGR wiped off and had the car fully checked on VAG COM/Bosch with no faults what so ever. The mapper wasn't 100% on the starting issue so i just ran the car as it was. The starting was poor but the car ran absolutely spot on when going.

I've been getting increasingly annoyed and disheartened with the car so i decided to try and get to the bottom of it last month. Took it to my local VAG specialist who really knows his stuff and he wasn't 100%. Changed the crankshaft sensor and stripped the tandem pump, rebuilt with new seals and still no better. I've just bought my first house so i took the car back from the garage, not wanting the costs to spiral out of control, so I'm pretty much stuck.

It sounds fuel related to me. On a morning, it will fire up for a split second then cut out straight away then take a good 10-15 seconds turning over to get going though sometimes it will fire straight up. Plenty of smoke on start up. It's very irregular so i can't say exactly when or if its not going to fire up.

After doing some digging online, people have said Injector seals but if the seals were goosed, surely i would have had other problems in the 10 months it's had the problem. Turbo etc. The oil level doesn't rise either.

I'm pretty handy on the tools and trust myself to do most jobs so looking for some advise on what to try next.

Anyone within 50 miles of County Durham willing to take a look and give an opinion?
 

auds2

Active Member
Jul 6, 2015
132
2
Injector back lash is worth checking on these pd enignes and also worth checking the timing is set correctly as even a little out can cause issues
 

brett1223

Active Member
Dec 15, 2012
77
0
Durham
Injector back lash? I can't say I've heard of that?

The car was data logged when it was mapped. Everything including the timing was well within tolerance.
 

auds2

Active Member
Jul 6, 2015
132
2
PD injectors when fitted have to have the stroke set. Im guessing if the cam has been done right tho they will have set them, Or you would hope they have anyway haha.
 

auds2

Active Member
Jul 6, 2015
132
2
I think it shows on vag com if you look at injector deviation.


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auds2

Active Member
Jul 6, 2015
132
2
If the injectors age old with high miles they may need an overhaul


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sockpuppet

Active Member
Apr 30, 2007
837
4
Does the car start ok once its warm?
Does the fuel pump prime, you should hear a priming noise when you turn the ignition and the glow plug light illuminates
Do you use quality fuel. I had warm start issues and switched from supermarket to the shell Nitro+ and millers and it was almost an instant fix. You may need to try the esso premium diesel as some mapped cars will run well on one fuel and terrible on others.
Have you code read the car?
 

brett1223

Active Member
Dec 15, 2012
77
0
Durham
It starts better when its warm but still has a mind of its own and can play up whenever. It's so irregular. Tried leaving it up hill, downhill, no difference. It does start slightly better with a full tank in, though that could just be a coincidence.

Yes the fuel pump primes as it should. Can hear it and I've had the lines off at the rail to make sure its getting a good squirt. Glow plug light illuminates and goes off when it should.

I use BP standard fuel religiously purely for the nectar points but i had an FR+ previously and it run absolutely spot on to 180k when i sold it. I can't see how different fuel will make it start any different.

Car brings up no faults what so ever. Its been plugged in plenty of times.
 

sockpuppet

Active Member
Apr 30, 2007
837
4
I would try injector cleaner, a new fuel filter and a different fuel first as these are cheap and easy to do. Your problem sounds very similar to the problem I had and changing fuel has solved it.
 

watdaluck

Active Member
Sep 3, 2015
46
0
Wiltshire
There is a repair kit of SEAT, VW, AUDI, SKODA relating to the coils. Cost me £120 fitted as EML was coming on every time I started the car. problem solved. I'm also using Millers EcoMax additive and have done for 2 tanks of diesel now, I've noticed a slight change in power but no increased MPG as yet. Seems to have cured my judder under light acceleration.
 

brett1223

Active Member
Dec 15, 2012
77
0
Durham
Repair kit for coils?

It had a new fuel filter 3 months ago and two full bottles of Millers additive over the next however many tanks after that. If i can't find BP I will use Shell and that makes no difference.

I don't get how changing fuels can make any difference to starting issues. I know fuels can very slightly when comparing BP/Shell over supermarkets but not enough to make a difference.
 

Thai-wronghorse

Self proclaimed Cupra R addict & butcher!
Dec 3, 2015
2,250
1,107
Kent
Coil repair kit? It's a diesel, there are no coils to repair!

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mattmatt89

Active Member
Nov 18, 2015
86
0
Gloucestershire
What others have said about injectors and fuel filter is what you should try out. Feel for you as mine starts really s**t but that's only when really cold outside. To have this happen most of the time would really frustrate me too.
 

sockpuppet

Active Member
Apr 30, 2007
837
4
The fuel quality has to meet a certain level so in theory there shouldn't be any difference, but its possible that there is additives in the fuel that don't agree with your engine or your local garage could have contaminated storage as most garages never clean the under ground storage tanks.
Water out of your tap has to meet a certain standard as well so that shouldn't be different, but its very different from area to area, some areas get massive limescale and others virtually none. Also by the time it comes out of your tap there is no guarantee that it hasn't been contaminated on the journey.
 
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