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Sticking vanes - any total solution?
- Thread starter iain1970
- Start date
can i interupt this thread and ask what cable i would need to use vagcom on a leon tdi 2007 bkd engine?
also the likelyhood of the actuator breaking?
im almost sure i have a VNT vane fault, how would i test that its not the actuator itself?
also the likelyhood of the actuator breaking?
im almost sure i have a VNT vane fault, how would i test that its not the actuator itself?
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Yeh but just put up a shout for someone in your area, there's a few folk with the newer version for your car. If it's just for faults though the autel vag405 I have covers the newer car no problem. It doesn't do logs or timing or any of that stuff but it does read faults and clear them on all the modules.
http://www.auteltech.com/vag405.htm
You get them on ebay for about £50
Oh right so you mean like the N75 valve..... umm havent heard of an actual failure of one, they tend to be very reliable electric devices, saying that i had an issue with my N18 (which is the same as the N75 only different colour cap) which caused lumpyness and hesitancy, so thats not to say they cant have little niggles. Cheap to replace out though.
The whole system seems to be very reliable for most but for others stuff fails, including the N75, they can sometimes be cured with a clean out but other than that it's a replacement job.
(Yeh I spend to much time on the tdiclub site)
You don;t spend enough time
I've never heard of an instance of an N75 failing in a PD or CR engine.
They fail on a regular basis on 1.8ts though.
How would you suggest you clean out the N75? Unlike the 1.8t, the N75 is inside a black vacuum control box along with a load of other gubbins. So 1, how you would clean it out and 2, what would you be cleaning out of it.
You don;t spend enough time
I've never heard of an instance of an N75 failing in a PD or CR engine.
They fail on a regular basis on 1.8ts though.
How would you suggest you clean out the N75? Unlike the 1.8t, the N75 is inside a black vacuum control box along with a load of other gubbins. So 1, how you would clean it out and 2, what would you be cleaning out of it.
Bollox! They do fail from time to time, I spend hours on that site and seen it a few times now. They are just a variable type of solonoid thing and like any other moving part, can fail.
Anyhoo a number of people have had success spraying them full of stuff like switch cleaner, giving them a good shake, spraying some more repeating it and then leaving them to drain a bit. For some reason some of them seem to get a bit oily
No idea how that happens.Direct quote from myturbodiesel in the limp mode faq
"The N75 solenoid is the solenoid that controls pressure to the turbo wastegate (mk3 TDI) or vacuum to the VNT actuator (mk4, mk5, mk6 TDI). Here's how it works: once the intake manifold pressure sensor shows boost pressure reaching the desired value, the ECU activates the N75 solenoid which fluctuates vac/pressure to the wastegate/VNT actuator to stabilize the boost pressure at the desired value. If the vacuum lines are broken or the solenoid is bad, it won't control pressure which causes a problem which the ECU sees. You can try removing the N75 and flushing it out with electronic cleaner. Once dry, try a squirt of WD40 inside to help the solenoid move freely."
http://www.myturbodiesel.com/1000q/multi/limp-mode-TDI-fix.htm
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One point to note: never leave WD40 on anything you want to stay mobile, always clean it out with something else such as the "teflon-based" high performance spray lubricants. WD40 is not a lubricant, it's primarily for getting water out of electrical systems (WD=Water Displacement) and it also helps to break up rust deposits. Left in place it gradually hardens.
+1 - how many times does you see it being used as a penetrating oil as well
it just makes a mess!Anyhoo a number of people have had success spraying them full of stuff like switch cleaner, giving them a good shake, spraying some more repeating it and then leaving them to drain a bit. For some reason some of them seem to get a bit oily
I'd guess the engine block breather feeds back into the turbo intake, oil vapours are then sent through the boost pipes - N75 takes a feed from the boost line to regulate the wastegate and gets all the lovely vapours passing through.
Another good reason for a catch can on ANY engine??
Maybe the TDi dont have as much problems with the N75 as its lubricated due to the oil coming from the boost pipes lol
+1 - how many times does you see it being used as a penetrating oil as well
I'd guess the engine block breather feeds back into the turbo intake, oil vapours are then sent through the boost pipes - N75 takes a feed from the boost line to regulate the wastegate and gets all the lovely vapours passing through.
Another good reason for a catch can on ANY engine??
It doesn;t work that way on a PD or CR engine. The N75 isn't a moving solenoid, the way it is on a 1.8t
Is it more in the vacuum side of things on the PD & CRs? I was going on what had been quoted above regarding the operation of it
Is it more in the vacuum side of things on the PD & CRs? I was going on what had been quoted above regarding the operation of it
Yes its all on the vacuum side.
Which is why they don;t fail on PD or CRs.
And at roughly £150 to replace, the internet 'help' is just costing people money for a part that isn;t known to fail (i'm not saying they could never fail, but in my experience of PD & CR engines for the last 6 years, I've never known one to fail, thats including from this site)
Makes a hell of a lot more sense in the vac side, so much cleaner operating conditions for a start.
£150 staying in your pocket is a much better option as well.
£150 staying in your pocket is a much better option as well.
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