Turbo Removal help!!!
- Thread starter STU3Y
- Start date
This website has an excellent guide for turbo refurbishment.
http://www.pelicanparts.com/techart...ger_Rebuild/24-TURBO-Turbocharger_Rebuild.htm
They may also have a guide for removal.
/
Is this the car that has had the terraclean treatment done on it recently?
http://www.pelicanparts.com/techart...ger_Rebuild/24-TURBO-Turbocharger_Rebuild.htm
They may also have a guide for removal.
/
Is this the car that has had the terraclean treatment done on it recently?
Last edited:
I don't know about the layout of the leon compared to the vw touran but the touran is quite awkward to work on for the same engine that is. I have removed the turbo on my car and the airbox and all intake ducting has to come off. When working on the cousins I could see that the right hand driveshaft inner coupling the gearbox output flange would need removed to aid access to intercooler ducting and the compressor side of the turbo. It would entail a bit of work but if it were me I would try to get the TIP off and feel the compressor wheel for myself. It's important to clean around the pipe before you remove it and that your hands are clean before you touch the wheel to prevent contamination and further damage. The wheel should have absolutely no movement in it end to end or sideways. Also when the wheel is turned it should be smooth and without vibration, notchey, grinding feeling.
My mechanic had a go at this but said that there just wasn't enough space to get to anything . He thinks that perhaps the engine would need to be dropped out or at least various other components removed. He is 71 so this was too much for him. He states that he did feel for play and there was none. He also used a mirror to inspect the impeller and couldn't see any damage.
Sent from my Nexus 10 using Tapatalk
Sent from my Nexus 10 using Tapatalk
You'll not always see damage at the top the compressor wheel, inducer. That's good that there is no play in the wheel as if there's little to no movement then the wheel is a lot less likely to impact the compressor or turbine housing. The rotation of the wheel and the feel that you get back through your finger tips is one way of assessing the bearing condition. Your mechanic is right about it's removal and the requirement for components to be displaced in order to make it happen. It's a lot easier to do if you take all ducting off and as I said before the righthand driveshaft. It may be possible to uncouple the dogbone mount and pull the engine forward to improve access but you'd need to check this as you go along or confirm with someone who has done a turbo removal on your specific model. Just be careful of coolant lines and other attachments that you don't put to much strain on them or drop an engine on yourself. The question that I'm wondering though is that how come it's making the dreaded siren noise if there's no play in the wheel which would very much indicate no danmage to the wheel? Could it be surge your hearing from overboost due to gummed up VNT components? Would it be worth your while to get a run and log done with it on rostech vcds-lite? Then you can see the boost pressure actual against requested? Just before you spend a load of money and more exactly a load of time taking parts off.
Last edited:
You need to either download and register the software for your car from rosstech onto your laptop or go to the diagnosis section of the forum and post if someone near your location can help you. It cost 60 or 65 pounds to register the free software to be able to do logs. The website has tutorials on how to do the log and what block number to put into the program to read the engine parameters that you wish to view. The log is best done in third or fourth on a light gradient from 1500 rpm to as high as legally permitting an rpm speed in that gear but ideally 3500-4000 rpm.
I'm surprised it's failed so early. I know the other fella said his failed at 41,000 miles. I thought the audi biturbo s4 were bad for failed turbos at 80,000-100,000 miles. The bearings in my 1.9tdi turbo needed replaced at about 120,000 miles but wasn't making any noises and had missed an oil change at a 10,000 mile interval so 20,000 miles between oil changes is to much for the specifications of the oil which would cause bearing wear.
I'm surprised it's failed so early. I know the other fella said his failed at 41,000 miles. I thought the audi biturbo s4 were bad for failed turbos at 80,000-100,000 miles. The bearings in my 1.9tdi turbo needed replaced at about 120,000 miles but wasn't making any noises and had missed an oil change at a 10,000 mile interval so 20,000 miles between oil changes is to much for the specifications of the oil which would cause bearing wear.
Not actually had this done yet, awaiting a quote from a local mechanic. However since my last mechanic tried the car now makes a loud whistle on boost (this is separate to the existing siren noise), it never used to do this. The whistle last for about a second and is very high pitched. I suspect a boost leak but still has full power no smoke etc. Also I have noticed a flutter type sound when I come off the revs, any ideas?
Have read the boost leak tester guide but no one gives any instructions parts for standard airbox set up?
Have read the boost leak tester guide but no one gives any instructions parts for standard airbox set up?
Thought I would record a video of the turbo noise before it goes in for replacement next week. You can also hear a bit of flutter on lift off. Not sure if that's normal or what causes it?
www.youtube.com/watch?v=LiSEHmPJbl0
www.youtube.com/watch?v=LiSEHmPJbl0
Last edited:
So now my turbo is done, I am very paranoid about hot shutdowns etc and have been considering ways of minimising damage without having to sit in the car. Obviously I could use a turbo timer, but I don't know much about these or there cost, so any info would be appreciated.
Also I seem to remember someone telling me about some sort of oil canister or similar that slowly release oil into the turbo after shutdown to keep it lubricated, think it was referred To as a turbo saver or similar. Anyone know what this is?
Also I seem to remember someone telling me about some sort of oil canister or similar that slowly release oil into the turbo after shutdown to keep it lubricated, think it was referred To as a turbo saver or similar. Anyone know what this is?
Similar threads
