VAG com and tacho supplier for windows 7

[Ibiza2000]

Right so bought a VAG com and TACHO, these were the rep leads from flee bay

My problem is I can't sync my leads to the software! I followed instructions they provided and even tried to run the old version in xp mode as admin, no joy, the new vcds 11.1 doesn't allow a version to be run in xp at all, tried both the downloaded version from Ross tech and the software they provided no joy, iv updated my drivers via the Internet and also updated manually by choosing its destination to the rosstech file on the c drive,

Has anyone got any ideas?

If not can anyone point me in the right direction to a supplier of both COM and TACHO that are compatible for windows 7? I haven't the money to pay for genuine leads at the moment

 

[Slimy]

You won't be able to run it in XP mode as it's effectively an emulator and won't be able to access the hardware correctly. Having said that, you shouldn't need to run it in XP mode anyway.

First question, what is the actual problem? Are you having trouble getting the software to recognise the lead? Most problems I've found with leads is that the USB ports on Windows 7 start counting from 8 or something, and the vagcom software only looks at 1 to 4. Just looking at my laptop now shows my USB ports starting at COM port 5 and going up. You have to move one of the ports to lower on the range for it to be recognised.

The other option is that the leads are actually faulty, there is a fairly high failure rate with aftermarket leads. I always recommend getting them from a UK buyer just in case you are one of the unlucky ones.

See what COM port is being used. Go to control panel, system and then device manager. Under 'ports (COM & LPT)' you should see something that looks like a vagcom lead (serial interface or similar). Right click and choose properties, go to port settings and advanced, and the COM port number should be at the bottom.

 

[Ibiza2000]

Yeah I have that problem syncing the hardware to the software it just says interface not found when I press test

I'm sure I set it up for com port 1 I'll double check, failing that what are my next steps? And also the TAChO were can I get the software to go with my interface? Also is it safe to use as it changes immobiliser codes etc doesn't it?

 

[Slimy]

Make sure nothing else is set up on COM port 1, Windows allows you to allocate more than one item to a COM port. As you can expect it stops both of them working!

Try the other three if port 1 doesn't seem to behave. I think COM port 2 is my laptops favourite.

I can't help you with the VAG Tacho software, did nothing come with the lead? VAG Tacho is a lot more powerful than VAG COM, but as long as you're careful what you change then you'll be fine.

 

[Ibiza2000]

Iv checked the con ports all 4 don't work or sun it's the same error each time port ok, interface not found

I tried downloading a driver decoder to sync up the hardware still no joy

I'm think in gonna but from a reputable buyer not a pencil neck lovin mofo that don't know there own product they sell

Anyone know any good suppliers that supply a lead and or software that's workin for windows 7?

 

[Slimy]

Yep, Ross Tech...

 

[Bondiblu]

Iv checked the con ports all 4 don't work or sun it's the same error each time port ok, interface not found

I tried downloading a driver decoder to sync up the hardware still no joy

I'm think in gonna but from a reputable buyer not a pencil neck lovin mofo that don't know there own product they sell

Anyone know any good suppliers that supply a lead and or software that's workin for windows 7?

Are you testing it while plugged into the car?

 

[Slimy]

Are you testing it while plugged into the car?

And with the ignition on...

 

[Ibiza2000]

No I never tested it in the car as there hardware was not in sync with the software making the hardware sending signals to something it doesn't compate with, plus it won't let u set any settings untill it's in sync

As for the "Ross tech" comment I'm not here to have or start a debate between genuine gear and replica, I'm asking about replica cables as I can't afford the full version plus I don't need the full version for what I need,

Could anyone point me in the right direction of a rep cable supplier in the uk where theyve experienced success with windows 7

 

[Bondiblu]

Some of the clone cables require an external voltage to power the electronics in the connector. My old clone cable would not detect the interface unless externally powered as it obviously didn't utilise the 5V from the USB port. That's why I asked if you're testing it in the car or not..

 

[Slimy]

As bondiblu says, it won't work at all without power from the car. Whether it's in sync or not, it still needs to be plugged into the car. So fingers crossed that's the issue and you're fine.

Apologies for the Ross Tech comment, but you did ask where you can get one from that would be 100%, and only Ross Tech leads can do that. All Ebay jobbies are going to come from one or two factories in China, so they're all as bad as each other. I perfectly understand you wanting a replica one (that's all I have), but I couldn't give you a recommendation for any replica lead that would have the quality that Ross Tech would give you.

 

[Ibiza2000]

Lol I think u may have mis interpreted my original comment slimmy, no worried mate, I just was after a lead that works with windows 7, not like a 100% version where did u guys get ur cable from? And what system u runnin it with?

May try the car powering up the cable, but I'm unsure if will work as my system detects an interface just doesn't sync :/

I know there are a few suppliers that are decent iv heard good stuff from a guy in Bristol might search him out on the bay lol

 

[Slimy]

Mine came from Ebay, but the seller doesn't exist any more. I'm running it off Windows 7 32 bit against the older VAGCOM rather than VCDS, but that shouldn't make any difference. The only thing I recommend is buy from a uk seller, in case you have to return it. The only extra thing I have to do for Windows 7 is run as admin, otherwise it doesn't recognise the interface.

I believe the cable is made up of two logical sections, a USB section that is designed to connect to the PC, and an OBDII section that will connect to the car. Your PC is recognising the USB section and giving you the illusion of an interface present, but when the software tries to connect to the OBDII section through it, there isn't anything there.

In summary, it does have to be plugged in.

 

[Ibiza2000]

Ok thanks for the info, I'll just ask the questions before I buy a reputable seller will knowsweat there selling exactly (I hope) lol