110TDI Thread

Israar

Active Member
Dec 8, 2014
450
4
Dudley
Hi israar,

Thank you for the welcome

Yeah they blow hot and cold intermittently which made me believe it was an air lock from when the coolant system was refreshed after the water pump change I run the car for 15-20 mins with the cap off (after buying a new one thinking it wasn't self purging) with the heaters on full to try remove any air locks still to no avail I suspected the head had gone again but was hoping not to rip the block apart again thankfully a friend is testing the coolant for exhaust gas emissions tomorrow evening so hopefully will have an answer by then

And no mayo in the oil cap or foam in the expansion tank but I believe this Isn't always the case ?

Any help or advice would be much appreciated I'm no expert but I like to think I know about engines but this has me boggled

- Rob

Welcome mate! :)

So it's intermittent, I'd say that would be more of a pain in the bum to figure out with it not being a permanent problem at hand. At least harder to get to the root of the problem, I could be wrong though! :D

Cap should always be on when run, only when starting the car from cold with the cap being taken off to make sure the coolant is flowing the put back on, shouldn't be off due to the pressure if I'm right?

Hopefully the test will give you something positive to work from tomorrow, no mayo in the oil is good as that shows no water is getting in to your oil, though you can get a mayo cap from cold weather and short journeys through condensation! :D

There are a few people who I can say have helped me out something chronic, Muttley is one who's well informed though he's not the only one! There's so many people on this forum with information it's like we have a community "SCN Manual" as opposed to the "Haynes Manuals" :rofl: -- I don't fit in to that category though! ;-)

I'm still learning with my engine, I couldn't say I'm confident enough to change a head gasket yet so kudos there mate! :)

And sorry no leaks from what I can see apart from when the expansion tank floods the overflow due to the pressure being built up really hoping it isn't the head gasket as I had the head skimmed and got a strong triple notch gasket all other ancillary gaskets were changed as well as the head confused is an understatement

Again thanks :)

-Rob

I'm right to say you're running a diesel? If so why did you have the head skimmed? I believe that's something that shouldn't be done on diesels as I'm sure I read it doesn't do anything positive for a diesel engine whereas on a petrol the case is different?

It's definitely puzzling for sure! :)

--Lee
 

Yorkshireboxer

Active Member
Jul 6, 2015
41
0
A friend advised it be skimmed ? And yes diesel mate you reckon this could be the root of the problem ? And the heaters blowing hot and cold is intermittent but say I'm doing 40mph at 2000 rpm car is fine if I decide to put my toe down a bit it the temp shoots up and warning light flashed and beeps and Haynes ain't what they used to be lol a pal recommended this forum so thought I would give it a try and the head gasket and water pump change isn't as hard as it sounds I watched a video on YouTube as I did it as long as you replace the bolts in the right order (new ones of course) and to the right NM of torque you can't go far wrong always been pretty hands on and keen to get in there so thought would give it a shot as lack of funds would have left me looking at scrapping it borrowed the timing tool of my friend and after a quick how too i was off other than the over heating problem the car runs spot on starts at the slightest turn idles smoothly accelerates brilliantly especially when boosting that's why I can't see it being the head again as when that was blown it was sluggish struggled to start and was underpowered

The test will hopefully give me some sort of answer
Really want to get it sorted as I love it but it's getting silly now

:)


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niallmcc

Active Member
Jun 28, 2015
12
0
hey folks, have a 110tdi se myself. black with cupra kit factory fitted. only recently purchased. very pleased! looking for some pics of lowering springs and kits that people have installed to theirs as im looking for a nice look to mine but unsure how low to go. dont want decked just a nice stance, slightly lower at the front.

cheers :)
 

verbal_kint

Active Member
Apr 15, 2010
639
31
North West Kent
Never saw this thread before...

So I have a 110tdi SE, 2001, 137000. Red (because that makes it go faster to an Italian alledgedly)

It has a remap to 143 and gloss black multi-spoke 17" wheels.

Due to an a~*e of a mechanic (don't give your car to a Jez in Westerham, more details on application) it has been laid up for the last year while I try to get it sorted after he botched a head gasket change. Caught between learning how to did it myself to make it affordable or scrapping the car.

Also have a 130tdi SE (not as fast as the 110 because it's not red).
 
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Yorkshireboxer

Active Member
Jul 6, 2015
41
0
Head gaskets are a ball ache simply because of the labour involved not extremely hard to do tho I was in the same predicament so had a bash some good videos on YouTube and information on here

Is your car still laid up verbal

-Rob


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verbal_kint

Active Member
Apr 15, 2010
639
31
North West Kent
Yes, very slowly working on it.

As I started stripping it back down I found the guy had not tightened the inlet or exhaust or cam cover bolts down. He'd holed the sump and chemical metaled a repair. And the new head gasket had leaked.
Then found one of the cams was chipped and worn and the shim under had worn right through.
It was cheaper to find a recon head with cam (£120 and it seems to be fine).

I've now turned 2 of the old head bolts into guide pins and tomorrow I will try to have a go at fitting the new head. I also made my own pulley holder tool for £6 :) and it's adjustable! Well pleased with myself for that bit of diy.

Just nervous at having set the timing right.
 

Yorkshireboxer

Active Member
Jul 6, 2015
41
0
I was the same Mate I borrowed a timing tool/pully holder off a friend and used chalk to mark the belt on the pulleys just to be sure was sweating before I turned the ignition when it was rebuilt

Some helpful videos on YouTube too worth a look as long as you use new stretch bolts and torque them to the correct nm in the right order

And the homemade pully holder has intrigued me, I myself have had to knock up a few things in the past to save time and money. not sure if there is a thread on here about making one if not maybe you could write one up with a few pictures on a how to? If it's not too much trouble Would be great

-Rob


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Israar

Active Member
Dec 8, 2014
450
4
Dudley
A friend advised it be skimmed ? And yes diesel mate you reckon this could be the root of the problem ? And the heaters blowing hot and cold is intermittent but say I'm doing 40mph at 2000 rpm car is fine if I decide to put my toe down a bit it the temp shoots up and warning light flashed and beeps and Haynes ain't what they used to be lol a pal recommended this forum so thought I would give it a try and the head gasket and water pump change isn't as hard as it sounds I watched a video on YouTube as I did it as long as you replace the bolts in the right order (new ones of course) and to the right NM of torque you can't go far wrong always been pretty hands on and keen to get in there so thought would give it a shot as lack of funds would have left me looking at scrapping it borrowed the timing tool of my friend and after a quick how too i was off other than the over heating problem the car runs spot on starts at the slightest turn idles smoothly accelerates brilliantly especially when boosting that's why I can't see it being the head again as when that was blown it was sluggish struggled to start and was underpowered

The test will hopefully give me some sort of answer
Really want to get it sorted as I love it but it's getting silly now

:)

I'd have personally stayed away from having the head skimmed mate, not something I'd recommend at all... I can't say what it will do nor whether that is the root cause since all I believe is that it will change your compression ratio, if someone can clarify this I'd be grateful! Albeit as said I can't say if it is or isn't the root cause of your problem.

I was making sure of it being diesel or petrol due to the skimming, as I know some petrol cars tend to work better with the head being skimmed, I had a pug 306 which had the head skimmed after the head gasket went and it ran a charm, though that was petrol :D

How instantly does your temp jump and warning light flash? Have you considered checking your thermostat? I don't believe there has ever been a Haynes manual for this engine and if I right I'm sure someone posted on here somewhere that there would be no Haynes manual made for it either.

I'm quite like you in that respect, I like to get my hands dirty and give things a go, but I like to feel confident in certain things first such as my car, I won't personally mess with things I believe I'm not 100% certain on, as I don't want to ruin it and end up in a bind with me having to rely on the car as much as I do, if I had another runner besides this, I'd give everything a go with enough revision on how to do what I need to do! :D

If you don't mind sending me some links when your post count is higher to some of the YT videos of the head gasket replacement for our car that would be sweet! :)

Have you managed to find anything out given the test yet mate? As for starting first time, I'd love that but I don't have the joys of it just yet. Think my timing on the pump might be slightly off or my glow plugs, not 100% sure, on cold it starts pretty well, after a run and the cars warm, that's when it's more of a pain in the rear! I'll be having a power test as soon as the oil and oil filter change is done so I can see what the car is running, don't have the original N75 valve on mine (long story short it was replaced to test if it was the problem and mechanic never put my original back). I'll tell you else where about my car unless you read my readers ride thread save you having me take your post off topic! :)

These cars are lovely, I'm in love with this car of mine even though it has the little bits to sort out, it's a car that's definitely taken my heart! :love:

hey folks, have a 110tdi se myself. black with cupra kit factory fitted. only recently purchased. very pleased! looking for some pics of lowering springs and kits that people have installed to theirs as im looking for a nice look to mine but unsure how low to go. dont want decked just a nice stance, slightly lower at the front.

cheers :)

Hey mate, 110TDi SE crew coming along! We should make a meet sometime get all our babies together haha! :toast:

I've not gone to the route of lower springs yet and might not, depends as I've got so much to do to mine that I can't afford to do all at once! :D

Best place to visit would be the DPM Performance forum here and speak to the guys in there, highly recommended and they can recommend to suit your needs/requirements! :)

You got single or double din mate?


Never saw this thread before...

So I have a 110tdi SE, 2001, 137000. Red (because that makes it go faster to an Italian alledgedly)

It has a remap to 143 and gloss black multi-spoke 17" wheels.

Due to an a~*e of a mechanic (don't give your car to a Jez in Westerham, more details on application) it has been laid up for the last year while I try to get it sorted after he botched a head gasket change. Caught between learning how to did it myself to make it affordable or scrapping the car.

Also have a 130tdi SE (not as fast as the 110 because it's not red).

Hey mate, nice to see more and more people with the 110TDi SE! :D

As I mentioned above, we should form a meet up at some point and get a nice juicy pic up for SCN of the 110 TDi SE's :D

Hahaha, Red because it goes faster to an Italian? That's news to me :D

How're you finding the remap from standard? What have you had done to your car to suit the increase? Who did you go to for the remap too?

Ouch, sorry to hear about your Cowbow mechanic! Don't scrap the car mate, while you have access to your second runner, take the time to learn and do it yourself maybe? That's what I'd personally do hehe! :D

Hope all is well for everyone! Time for me to catch some Z's ;)

--Lee
 

Muttley

Catch that diesel!
Mar 17, 2006
4,987
31
North Kent
The cylinder heads on these engines are dead flat with shallow depressions for the valves, so that they end up level with the head joint when closed. There is no margin for skimming to rectify a warped head, the only answer is a new one.

The Mk.1 Leon/Mk.2 Toledo are based on the Mk.4 Golf platform, the A4 platform shared with the Mk.2 Toledo, Audi A3 and TT, Bora and Skoda Octavia, and the relevant Haynes manuals are 3727 and 4169. Everything in these manuals applies to our cars apart from some of the bodywork and interior details.

3727 covers
Golf Hatchback and Estate and Bora Saloon, inc. special/limited editions, April 98 - 00, R to X
Petrol: 1.4 litre (1390cc) (AHW, AXP), 1.6 litre (1597cc) (AEH, AKL, AUS), 1.8 litre (1781cc) (AGN)
Diesel: 1.9 litre SDI (AQM), TDI 90 (AGR and ALH), TDI 110bhp (AHF & ASV)

Does NOT cover 4-Motion (4x4) or Cabriolet
Does NOT cover 2.3 litre V5 engine
Does NOT cover 1.9 litre 'PD' engine


4169 covers
Petrol: 1.4 litre (1390cc) (AHW, AXP, BCA), 1.6 litre (1597cc) (AEH, AKL and BFQ), 1.8 litre (1781cc) (AUQ) and 2.0 litre (1984cc) 4-cyl, inc. turbo
Diesel: 1.9 litre SDI (AQM), TDI 90 (AGR and ALH), TDI 110bhp (AHF & ASV), TDI (PD) 100 (AXR) TDI (PD) 130 (ASZ) and TDI (PD) 150bhp (ARL)

Does NOT cover 2.3 litre V5, or 2.8 or 3.2 litre V6 petrol engines.
Does NOT cover V5, 4-Motion, R32 or Cabriolet models, or new Golf range introduced January 2004
 
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Yorkshireboxer

Active Member
Jul 6, 2015
41
0
It passed the sniffer test so there is that looks like didn't do too bad a job on the head and I ordered the thermostat and flange that it fits to arrive, as I noticed the pipe coming from that to the radiator was stone cold despite the engine being up to running temp (90) and I wish I had known about the not skimming the head, surely the place I got the head skimmed would have known not to skim a diesel head? I will get on to him as the word skimmed was never mentioned to be fair he said 'machine the head' I assumed skimming but because of how quality the engine is running and what Muttley said I am starting to think otherwise a friend did it so won't be hard to find out exactly what he did there were no problems fitting the head and putting it back together

And thanks for the info Muttley much appreciated will update you all on the problem tomorrow if it is the thermostat I'm gonna kick my self in the face

Thanks again all

P.s 110 se tdi meet sounds good

P.p.s soon as I'm more established I will get the links for you Israar

-Rob


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Israar

Active Member
Dec 8, 2014
450
4
Dudley
The cylinder heads on these engines are dead flat with shallow depressions for the valves, so that they end up level with the head joint when closed. There is no margin for skimming to rectify a warped head, the only answer is a new one.

Thanks for clarifying this Muttley! :)

As for the Haynes manuals, for myself the 4169 would be appropriate for me since mine being a 03 :D

I don't think I'll be buying one any time soon though, just gone and got myself an oil drain pan and funnel so I can crack on with the oil and filter change shortly, booya! :D

It passed the sniffer test so there is that looks like didn't do too bad a job on the head and I ordered the thermostat and flange that it fits to arrive, as I noticed the pipe coming from that to the radiator was stone cold despite the engine being up to running temp (90) and I wish I had known about the not skimming the head, surely the place I got the head skimmed would have known not to skim a diesel head? I will get on to him as the word skimmed was never mentioned to be fair he said 'machine the head' I assumed skimming but because of how quality the engine is running and what Muttley said I am starting to think otherwise a friend did it so won't be hard to find out exactly what he did there were no problems fitting the head and putting it back together

And thanks for the info Muttley much appreciated will update you all on the problem tomorrow if it is the thermostat I'm gonna kick my self in the face

Thanks again all

P.s 110 se tdi meet sounds good

P.p.s soon as I'm more established I will get the links for you Israar

-Rob

Hey Rob :)

I'd have imagined that they should have known not to skim the head, I believe machining the head would be skimming it? If not definitely get back to us with what they actually did!

Glad you passed with flying colours on the sniffer test, hopefully it will be as simple as the thermostat, if it is then jobs a good one! Still though, I'm curious to where your coolant is going? With the thermostat being bad would that still cause coolant to go?

If you attempt to kick yourself in the face record it for us lot to have a chuckle! :rofl: :toast:

We will definitely have to organise one when we've got more sorted with one anothers cars and have a good set of time to do it! Just have to see who is up for it and where everyone is situated!

Thanks again mate and I believe it's 15 posts then you can put up links and images! :)

--Lee
 

Yorkshireboxer

Active Member
Jul 6, 2015
41
0
I believe when the expansion tank is filling with pressure it is pushing the coolant out of the overflow mate but like I said bottom rad pipe is stone cold but has been hot aswell so I think it HAS TO BE (fingers crossed) the thermostat all parts just been delivered as well as a norm fest coolant flush so flush drain replace the thermo fill back up and pray will keep you all updated

And yeah sounds great will have to start a thread for meet closer to time would like to get my se 110 finished cosmetically and mechanically first tho

And if it works with the thermo you have a deal I will attempt to kick my self

And I'm not sure my theory is the thermostat is playing up and isn't opening wouldn't this pressurise the system and force the coolant out?

Many thanks

-Rob


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verbal_kint

Active Member
Apr 15, 2010
639
31
North West Kent
I don't think I'll be buying one any time soon though, just gone and got myself an oil drain pan and funnel so I can crack on with the oil and filter change shortly, booya! :D--Lee

Eventually you will get bored and then find the joys of buying a pump to suck the oil out from the dipstick, one of the best buys I made. Now I can do an oil and filter change in 30 mins and drink coffee while I wait :) No more under the car and risking crossed plugs.
 

Israar

Active Member
Dec 8, 2014
450
4
Dudley
I believe when the expansion tank is filling with pressure it is pushing the coolant out of the overflow mate but like I said bottom rad pipe is stone cold but has been hot aswell so I think it HAS TO BE (fingers crossed) the thermostat all parts just been delivered as well as a norm fest coolant flush so flush drain replace the thermo fill back up and pray will keep you all updated

And yeah sounds great will have to start a thread for meet closer to time would like to get my se 110 finished cosmetically and mechanically first tho

And if it works with the thermo you have a deal I will attempt to kick my self


And I'm not sure my theory is the thermostat is playing up and isn't opening wouldn't this pressurise the system and force the coolant out?

Many thanks

-Rob

That's a possible cause with the pressure Rob mate, I hope it is just the thermostat as it will be a nice sweet little done and duster then! All you need to do it get yourself cosmetically finished hehe! I have a lot to do but mines a slow WIP since I can't accommodate too much money or time at once :(

DEFINITELY VIDEO RECORD OF TRYING TO KICK YOURSELF :rofl:

I'm going to run in this new oil and see how things run then get a power test done asap as I want to see what numbers are being pushed so far! :)

Not sure about your theory, I don't know enough concerning the workings behind the thermostat other than it opens and closes based on temperature hehe! :D

Eventually you will get bored and then find the joys of buying a pump to suck the oil out from the dipstick, one of the best buys I made. Now I can do an oil and filter change in 30 mins and drink coffee while I wait :) No more under the car and risking crossed plugs.

Haha, care to let me in on this nifty little bit of equipment you're on about? I've come across videos before but thought it was a load of balls! :rofl:

--Lee
 

Yorkshireboxer

Active Member
Jul 6, 2015
41
0
Thermostat has been changed and took it for a good run no over heating or flashing light so looks promising only problem is I think I have air locked it refilling it after I drained it does any one know how much coolant the asv holds? It's took 5 litres but I was told it's around 8 ? Any more help would be appreciated

And have you had it tested before? What kind of power you looking to get out of her?

-Rob


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Yorkshireboxer

Active Member
Jul 6, 2015
41
0
Also the old thermostat was full of crap some stuff I didn't even recognise and a sand like substance
f30365c9e0c28a19aca171c871588195.jpg
af17e2c8623844c103f042f8f0eef002.jpg
95fadf85de58f61a4e2eb7b6b705e527.jpg


As you can see it was very poorly who ever owned the car last had zero maintenance routine good job it has me now

-Rob


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verbal_kint

Active Member
Apr 15, 2010
639
31
North West Kent
Here you go Lee:

http://www.seamarknunn.com/acatalog/pela-vacuum-oil-extractor-pump-6-l-6567.html

Amazon are a few quid more expensive. Boat people can't get under their engines so use these all the time, I've done 10 plus changes with mine. The first time I used it I also opened the sump to see how much was missed and a very slow dribble didn't even give quarter of a cup after 30 minutes. It showed to me that the pump got enough out.
 

Yorkshireboxer

Active Member
Jul 6, 2015
41
0
My friend got back to me the head wasn't exactly skimmed he machine polished it on a wheel to remove the crap

System is still pressurising pipe between thermostat flange and radiator intermittent hot and cold but never too hot to touch unlike the other coolant hoses

Could this mean a new radiator? not had it over heat on me since the thermostat was changed even when going over 2-3 k rpm like it did before took it to the redline to test it but after minutes of driving its air locked again still no over heating problem though thermostat change and/or coolant flush has partially fixed the problem

think I need to find a new head will the alh head fit or does it have to be asv?

Starting to regret trying to revive her now :(

-Rob


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Israar

Active Member
Dec 8, 2014
450
4
Dudley
Thermostat has been changed and took it for a good run no over heating or flashing light so looks promising only problem is I think I have air locked it refilling it after I drained it does any one know how much coolant the asv holds? It's took 5 litres but I was told it's around 8 ? Any more help would be appreciated

And have you had it tested before? What kind of power you looking to get out of her?

-Rob

It's good that it's not overheating, at least that's one down! :)

I'd not sure how much fluid needs to be in, I've never needed to change mine, it looks pretty decent on mine and it barely ever goes over 90 and when it does it drops slightly. Seems pretty fine, took mine for a mild run with the fresh oil and seems pretty smooth so far! :)

Never had it tested but I believe it's not pulling 110, somewhere between 80-90 I'd hazard a guess but I've not a clue to be honest! :D

Once I know how much she's pushing I can see where to go from there! :)

Here you go Lee:

http://www.seamarknunn.com/acatalog/pela-vacuum-oil-extractor-pump-6-l-6567.html

Amazon are a few quid more expensive. Boat people can't get under their engines so use these all the time, I've done 10 plus changes with mine. The first time I used it I also opened the sump to see how much was missed and a very slow dribble didn't even give quarter of a cup after 30 minutes. It showed to me that the pump got enough out.

Sounds pretty promising that mate! Will definitely give this a look up and get back to you on it, chances are I may have one for my next oil change, but money will be the deciding factor on that and how much more I've progressed on the beauty! ;-)

My friend got back to me the head wasn't exactly skimmed he machine polished it on a wheel to remove the crap

System is still pressurising pipe between thermostat flange and radiator intermittent hot and cold but never too hot to touch unlike the other coolant hoses

Could this mean a new radiator? not had it over heat on me since the thermostat was changed even when going over 2-3 k rpm like it did before took it to the redline to test it but after minutes of driving its air locked again still no over heating problem though thermostat change and/or coolant flush has partially fixed the problem

think I need to find a new head will the alh head fit or does it have to be asv?

Starting to regret trying to revive her now :(

-Rob

Before considering new head, get rid of your air lock and see how things go from that, if it persists after that we'll see if there are other options to try that are hopefully not very costly! :)

As for thinking about that BOLDED comment, get that silly idea right out of your head! ;-)

--Lee
 
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