)
I would go with the fronts first for that reason lol
also, might as well replace the top mounts whilst your at it, i didnt because they looked ok, now they are knocking too.
pissing low cars!
Like Tom says, give it a good soaking in penetrating oil - I tend to wire brush the front struts around where they slide into the hub and then soak em, same with the bolt/nut of the strut clamp. Also soak the ARB link top nut/bolt. To help persuade the strut clamp to open, you can get a spreader tool or make one your self with a 7mm allen key, grind down to make an oval. This fits in the back of the strut clamp and eases it open.
Deffo replace the top mounts and bearings, for the extra money and ten mins it'll take it's a no brainer.
IIRC the rear damper lower fixing nut should be replaced, its a self locker.
Depending on the condition of the bolts you might want to replace the ones you remove - OCD and all that
Better to have a pain of a time doing the fronts first, you'll love the rears for the simplicity and speed!
- although obviously I need to keep the hub split whilst I pull the strut out ... I do have a grinder and plenty of allen keys though.
Is it possible or do I need to unbolt anything else? - I may do the drivers side first and see how much fun I can have ...
For the splitter won't a chistle do it?
You can do yep - changed out a pair of top mounts and bearings before doing it that way
But you do have to put use them "upside-down" so the threaded portion sticks down the way. The set I had had a Phillips-style cross in the end of the threads so I could tighten them with a big screwdriver lol
Anywhere near you sell Plusgas, like a local tool store etc? Waaay better than WD for freeing stuck bolts etc
It's only the driver's side that a b!tch lol, the rears are almost comically simple!
Nope don't think Halfrauds do it, but they do stock penetrating oil (orangey aerosol can iirc)
