Easier with two people eh?
It was getting front struts off
Look forward to seeing the pics
Last edited:
Suspension hints and tips?
- Thread starter Mr OCD
- Start date
It was getting front struts off
Look forward to seeing the pics
Ok ... so some thoughts on the job...
Drivers side front strut:
You need to compress the spring on the car either using spring compressors otherwise the strut will not have clearance to come out ... you can of course remove it via hub or drop subframe but I used spring compressors as didnt want to throw the alignment out too much.
You DO need something to spread the hub (I made a tool from 7mm allen key) otherwise it will be very difficult to get the hub to move.
I used the tool... then put a piece of wood between hub and floor and jumped up and down on it ... worked perfectly.
New spring also needs compressing to get the strut back into the car... when tightening up the top mount bolt DO NOT overtighten them as you WILL shatter the bearings.
Again when putting the strut in the car make sure the hub is spread ... it can take some time to line it up properly to put the bolt in ...
Passenger side front strut:
MUCH easier and doesnt require compressing the spring on the car... just make sure you have disconnected the ARB links (both sides) as this gives you all the room you need.
I used the hub spreader and piece of wood and it popped out easily.
Torque up the bottom strut bolts to 60Nm and 90 degrees
Torque up the anti roll bar link bolts to 30Nm and 90 degrees
Top mount bolt and strut to engine bay bolt I used common sense as getting a torque wrench in there is impossible... FT ...
Rear Suspension:
Put axle stands under jack up points... the jack under centre of the rear beam... pop wheels off ... remove lower shock bolts... then lower jack... the springs will fall out ...
Top mounts on rear shocks to body are bloody tight... I used an electric impact wrench on them... then used a drop spanner and 6mm spanner to remove the mounts from the shock - also tight so lots of penetrating fluid.
In all not a bad job ... the driver side would always do first as that's the hardest so best to get it out of the way. Confident next time round I could do the job in half the time.
Pics:
Obviously only dropped it off the jack last night so still settling down... initial impressions of the drive ... softer than I was expecting ... soaks up bumps well and feels more refined but pushing on a bit the suspension firms up nicely.
No knocks / bumps / skipping so its screwed together well and the kit feels high quality.
Funny though the original damper rod no longer retract when pushed down... the front suspension also had odd springs ... VW one side and KYB the other side... different lengths as well
HTH - Thanks for all your help gents
Drivers side front strut:
You need to compress the spring on the car either using spring compressors otherwise the strut will not have clearance to come out ... you can of course remove it via hub or drop subframe but I used spring compressors as didnt want to throw the alignment out too much.
You DO need something to spread the hub (I made a tool from 7mm allen key) otherwise it will be very difficult to get the hub to move.
I used the tool... then put a piece of wood between hub and floor and jumped up and down on it ... worked perfectly.
New spring also needs compressing to get the strut back into the car... when tightening up the top mount bolt DO NOT overtighten them as you WILL shatter the bearings.
Again when putting the strut in the car make sure the hub is spread ... it can take some time to line it up properly to put the bolt in ...
Passenger side front strut:
MUCH easier and doesnt require compressing the spring on the car... just make sure you have disconnected the ARB links (both sides) as this gives you all the room you need.
I used the hub spreader and piece of wood and it popped out easily.
Torque up the bottom strut bolts to 60Nm and 90 degrees
Torque up the anti roll bar link bolts to 30Nm and 90 degrees
Top mount bolt and strut to engine bay bolt I used common sense as getting a torque wrench in there is impossible... FT ...
Rear Suspension:
Put axle stands under jack up points... the jack under centre of the rear beam... pop wheels off ... remove lower shock bolts... then lower jack... the springs will fall out ...
Top mounts on rear shocks to body are bloody tight... I used an electric impact wrench on them... then used a drop spanner and 6mm spanner to remove the mounts from the shock - also tight so lots of penetrating fluid.
In all not a bad job ... the driver side would always do first as that's the hardest so best to get it out of the way. Confident next time round I could do the job in half the time.
Pics:
Obviously only dropped it off the jack last night so still settling down... initial impressions of the drive ... softer than I was expecting ... soaks up bumps well and feels more refined but pushing on a bit the suspension firms up nicely.
No knocks / bumps / skipping so its screwed together well and the kit feels high quality.
Funny though the original damper rod no longer retract when pushed down... the front suspension also had odd springs ... VW one side and KYB the other side... different lengths as well
HTH - Thanks for all your help gents
glad to see you got it sorted mate
have you got some prices for the mounts you got? got to replace my coilovers so might aswel get them sorted
recommend getting the bearings too?
Got them from SERE mate ... link here:
http://www.seatcupra.net/forums/showthread.php?t=348614
Went for the Cupra R top mounts and bearings.
But yes my bearings were noisy that came out ...
Did note the Cupra R top mounts were taller than the OE ones so was worried front suspension would be too high but seems fine.
cheers for that pal!!
i will get some bearings they are cheap enough, same for front and rear?
im going to be running coilovers anyway so it shouldnt be an issue
cheers for that pal!!
i will get some bearings they are cheap enough, same for front and rear?
im going to be running coilovers anyway so it shouldnt be an issue
No bearings on the rear ...
Mounts don't need replacing on rear either as alum.
No bearings on the rear ...
Mounts don't need replacing on rear either as alum.
of course there isnt!
is there anything you replaced on the rear thats worth doing then? been SO long since ive done it myself
cheers
Front splitter is 140mm from ground ATM...
thats pretty good, no idea what mine is, although im around -60/70mm down
Yeah I agree it looks spot on!
It sets the car off perfectly and a superb ride... Very progressive.
It sets the car off perfectly and a superb ride... Very progressive.
I'm surprised it's so low to be honest... Kit is 35mm on standard Leon so 25mm on a Cupra... But it definitely seems lower to me... Lol.
Not complaining mind as the Wife reckons the ride is pretty smooth except on very bad surfaces... But as I said a softer car will just bounce a lot over those surfaces so matters not!
Had a good play earlier through some bends and feels much more stable... Planted and it doesn't pitch like a see-saw anymore under accelerating and braking!
IMHO this kit is the best vfm I've ever come across... Stonking!
Not complaining mind as the Wife reckons the ride is pretty smooth except on very bad surfaces... But as I said a softer car will just bounce a lot over those surfaces so matters not!
Had a good play earlier through some bends and feels much more stable... Planted and it doesn't pitch like a see-saw anymore under accelerating and braking!
IMHO this kit is the best vfm I've ever come across... Stonking!
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