With it not boosting try this.
If you have the standard rubber hoses to intercooler etc, start the engine and get someone to rev the engine while watching the rubber intake/turbo pipes to see if they collapse (deform) if so turbo most likely knackered.
Seen a fair few turbo failures on kkk turbos at work (VW vans) varying from chipped blades making them sound like police sirens, snapped shafts (no boost), seals gone, chewed up fins etc.
If you have the standard rubber hoses to intercooler etc, start the engine and get someone to rev the engine while watching the rubber intake/turbo pipes to see if they collapse (deform) if so turbo most likely knackered.
Seen a fair few turbo failures on kkk turbos at work (VW vans) varying from chipped blades making them sound like police sirens, snapped shafts (no boost), seals gone, chewed up fins etc.
simple way, and it gives you a sure ansa........
remove tip and wiggle the shaft, simple
gives you a straight ansa!
HoocH
remove tip and wiggle the shaft, simple
gives you a straight ansa!
HoocH
forgive me for speaking out of term but aren't you the guy who was saying you are running somehting daft like 26psi, if so isn't this proof that these turbos just cant run this sort of pressure.
we'll have to see, no point blasting anything if nothing is certain, but that certainly could be the case.
in this cold weather it was spiking at 27psi!!! if i get a new turbo and fit a standard actuator, is it going to throw the map out at all? will i be able to adjust it myself?
Hooch was running this turbo at 25-26psi for quite a while before me i think so it's lasted a long time.
Hooch was running this turbo at 25-26psi for quite a while before me i think so it's lasted a long time.
i am using a bit actually. i had no choice in the matter though. when it was mapped at jabba they said they wound the actuator out as far as it would go and it was still spiking at 25psi in the warm. if i floor it off boost in 3rd or 4th from low speed it boost at 27psi. actually, come to think of it in the last few days, unless i fed the boost in slowly it would feel like it's overboositng, juddering and popping, i had to feed it in slowly. could this be too much boost? i am deifnately going to put the standard actuator back on the next turbo. mind you, it was quick whilst it lasted. at 40mph in 3rd, i could easily out accelrate my mates stripped out 245bhp mini cooper S which was waiting on cam in 2nd gear cus flooring it in 3rd at 40mph in mine would see a quick hit of 27psi. no need to drop mine to 2nd at all 
Can you send the actuator back to Forge to have a different spring put in?
I've just ordered one with the standard spring they put in. My car just has the standard K03 turbo and a normal remap but I've ordered the Forge actuator just because I'm only seeing 9/10 psi max and you can open the wastegate by hand. Awesome told me to ony order a stronger actuator spring if I was running a bigger turbo and more boost.
the thing is with the forge one is it takes different springs so is tunable, so its not overkill, but questionable if you end up winding it back to std levels anyhows. 9-15psi is lowest spring I think. (actual 9psi in my case)
bill - i can't be bothered faffing around with changing springs etc, when i get a new turbo and re-fit the standard actuator, is it a case of having a play with it untill the car is spiking at around 22psi? (on a K03s?) i'm not going to need to go back to jabba to tweak the map or anything am i?
if it boost sensibly (like your suggested figures) then dialing the actuator (std one) on its preload will hopefully get you there yes.
Whether or not the request vs actual boost however gets upset vs what Jabba mapped it for is another question tho... that I cant predict.
Whether or not the request vs actual boost however gets upset vs what Jabba mapped it for is another question tho... that I cant predict.
If it is because of the actuator, you would get a standard one with k03s, a friend of mine has his forge actuator set at 21psi on a k03, must have a different spring in it then?
So do you think jabba should of adjusted it to request less? if they had have dialed the actuator and then set it to request less surely it wouldnt spike at 27psi, bet it was fun, but costly if it goes bang
Chaps....
the psi you see is a combination of actuator pressure AND N75 function (which is ecu controlled/mapped etc etc)
You can soon see what the actuator pressure is actually set at when you electrically disconnect the N75, so no "bleed" is allowed. Typical N75 off pressure being in the range of 5-7psi <<thats the comparison to make, not the on boost, N75 controlled boost..
If your actuator is a higher setting (be it wound in under more pre-load, or aftermarket one like Forges, differently sprung etc) this shifts the start point for the N75 map and duty cycle. Higher initial psi on actuator, then lower % duty cycle req'd on N75 to achieve the "same" requested boost
hope this explains
the psi you see is a combination of actuator pressure AND N75 function (which is ecu controlled/mapped etc etc)
You can soon see what the actuator pressure is actually set at when you electrically disconnect the N75, so no "bleed" is allowed. Typical N75 off pressure being in the range of 5-7psi <<thats the comparison to make, not the on boost, N75 controlled boost..
If your actuator is a higher setting (be it wound in under more pre-load, or aftermarket one like Forges, differently sprung etc) this shifts the start point for the N75 map and duty cycle. Higher initial psi on actuator, then lower % duty cycle req'd on N75 to achieve the "same" requested boost
hope this explains
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