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Big turbo for the dervs
- Thread starter Ibiza 130 tdi
- Start date
dieselhead1
Guest
Hi Shadowmaker,
As Mikey mentions you are a turbo expert.
When a turbo is specified as 1749, 1752, 2052, 2056 etc. I know in 1749 that 17 represents the hot side or impellor and 49 relates to the cold side/ compressor. Do you know what is being measured by 17 and 49. For example, is 17 the diameter of the inlet or turbine wheel.
Could you explain please.
Lastly, do you know anything about air fuel ratios for diesels.
Thanks
'Head'
As Mikey mentions you are a turbo expert.
When a turbo is specified as 1749, 1752, 2052, 2056 etc. I know in 1749 that 17 represents the hot side or impellor and 49 relates to the cold side/ compressor. Do you know what is being measured by 17 and 49. For example, is 17 the diameter of the inlet or turbine wheel.
Could you explain please.
Lastly, do you know anything about air fuel ratios for diesels.
Thanks
'Head'
No, I'm not an expert on turbos as I don't repair or modify them for living. I'm always looking for better options for my van or for my friends TDs/TDIs/CRs. 49 is the big end diameter of compressor wheel. 17 is representing the flow capability of hot side, but can be missleading sometimes. For the rule of thumb bigger number flows more. You also need to know how new unit you are considering about as 1749vc out flows 2052v. Actually I think 2052v would out flow 1749vc, but with our restricted heads, 1749vc can make higher boost levels with better efficiency, which makes it a winner. That's called engineering.
Fuel ratio isn't that important with diesel. You can run AFR 40 and it will not do any harm to your engine. Actually it's safer to run it lean, but try that on a gasser and you have your engine inside out.
It's the overfueling that brakes diesel engines and there are two reasons for that: 1. your squirt of fuel from the nozzles touches piston and burns over it, will make a hole in the piston. 2. uncomplete burning due to lack of oxygen continues after exhaust valve -> excessive heat load for the valve, head and turbo. Also exhaust pressure will hit the roof as gas expands when heated. There is always the matter of too much advance as that causes knocking similar to the gassers.
Now people are using 18-19 AFR if they measure it during dyno runs, but I always monitor EMP (=exhaust manifold pressure) as it is more accurate reading about what's going on inside the engine. Also good and easy indicator is that you don't want to smoke excessively on WOT @high rev area.
I'm no engineer (thank god), so I'm just rambling here...
Last edited:
dieselhead1
Guest
Hi,
Thanks for your reply.
You said that 17 is representing the flow capability of hot side. Is it possible to clarify this further; is it the amount of flow required to move the turbine within an effective range / rpm?
Best wishes
Thanks for your reply.
You said that 17 is representing the flow capability of hot side. Is it possible to clarify this further; is it the amount of flow required to move the turbine within an effective range / rpm?
Best wishes
dieselhead1
Guest
Hi Michael,
Thanks for the link, so its the inducer frame size, umm completely understand.
Define a frame please.
You fallen out with me, you don't reply to my emails.................
Thanks for the link, so its the inducer frame size, umm completely understand.
Define a frame please.
You fallen out with me, you don't reply to my emails.................
hi, i have a pd100 wat turbo can i get for it?? wat other mods wud be essential to go with it? need to draw more power out of it as i have recently had to change cars from a fr 1.8t
hi, i have a pd100 wat turbo can i get for it?? wat other mods wud be essential to go with it? need to draw more power out of it as i have recently had to change cars from a fr 1.8t
You could use the same turbo's as the 130/150/160, but you would need to look at upgrading injectors, possibly EGR setup?, clutch and god knows what else.
The internals on the PD100 are also different to that found in the 130/150/160, and may potentially require changing.
It would work out a lot cheaper to just buy a 130/150/160.
Tom, why did you upgrade your flywheel?
I want to do my clutch after a ss FMIC and was wondering if i would be fine with my current flywheel
I want to do my clutch after a ss FMIC and was wondering if i would be fine with my current flywheel
You'll be fine with your current flywheel mate. I think Tom. replaced his cos didnt want to have to replace the DMF in later life if it went....
Especially with how bad his clutch sounded, it would probably have runied the DMF a bit....
i dont really mind about how much it costs as my insurance wud be high on any other.
i may just stick to a simple remap exhaust etc then
i may just stick to a simple remap exhaust etc then
Ah, thanks for that - my car has done 90k miles now so if i get this conversion done i'll be keeping it for a good while
and make a massive loss when i sell it - will be worth it though
Ah, thanks for that - my car has done 90k miles now so if i get this conversion done i'll be keeping it for a good while
Don't worry about selling it on.....just enjoy it!
Upgraded my flywheel as the setup feels so much better when being "used" and also my old fly required replacing, so figured i may as well go all out and upgrade it at the same time.
I have the intention of going down the hybrid turbo route in the near future too, and dont fancy replacing DMF's all the time.
If you dont intend to go any further than a remap then i'd stick with the DMF as its capable of taking that power something like reliably.
The DMF's are capable of hybrid power, but the SMF's are more capable and happier with the power. If you're going for like 250bhp + (stage 3/4) then it's worth going for a SMF. When torque goes over 400ft/lb it becomes more of a necessity.
Youve got to me more careful about how you apply the power though.
With single mass its not going to shake itself to bits.
End of the day, it comes down to wether you can live with the noise of a single mass.
strugers1
Guest
And your bothered about what other people think? Who cares if they think god that sounds rough.
Fact is, theres nothing wrong with it, and as long as you know that, nobody else needs to.
Fact is, theres nothing wrong with it, and as long as you know that, nobody else needs to.
My dmf is shaking a bit now when driving the car wrong..
But like you say, the SMF's are rough. When i had mine it was exceptionally loud and i was on the clutch all the time at traffic lights and everything. I know it's not a bit deal but after a while i got fed right up of it. But yeh you're right Sir Tom. they are stronger and more reliable. But like i say, not neccessary - just advisory.
strugers1
Guest
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