Dan1720v

Active Member
Feb 28, 2010
1,928
2
Street, Somerset
Whilst driving my fiance's car up to combe on sat, after breaking down and the coil having to be replaced... i noticed a grinding/vibration whilst turning, felt awful, went through the whole car. had a quick look underneath, couldnt see anything, other than a split cv boot, which must have been recent as i fitted the coilovers not less than 3 weeks ago.

Jack it up and removed the wheel to be faced with this:

SS100225.jpg

SS100226.jpg


Now this was the problematic strut whilst fitting, but it was done up VERY tight, buzz gun then breaker bar. yet its still been able to slip through, and hit the driveshaft. now this could have been very dangerous had it not been caught so early on.

Just a warning to you all, double check everything is as it should be. I shall be welding a new one on with out the gap at the bottom, so shall be a full circle to prevent this.
 
Nasty, could have been a lot worse, the split cv boot will be due to the lowering of the car, as the angle of the shaft and wishbones is to high,mine did two in a month, its always on the short shaft near the engine, fitted LCR wishbones and hubs now so problem sorted.
 
Nah the strut was actually pressing down the cv boot! Its split the long shaft too! yeah could have been very nasty, just thought i'd post up here to raise awareness!
 
Do you mind if I ask a couple of questions, as that does seem like a horrible thing to happen that could have caused all manner of problems and bad situations.

First, isn't there some sort of stop either on the coilover or the hub? All the fitting guides say that you open up the clamp with that little tool thingy, then slide the coilover in until it hits the stop. I guess what I'm asking is what has actually failed for it to allow the coilover to slide through? I thought the clamp just holds it in place, I wouldn't expect the clamp on it's own to be able to resist natural suspension movement.

Second, how on earth have they got that mucky in 3 weeks? Do you live near the sea or something? :)
 
looks like the metal hook on the strut hasnt been passed into the housing, and the bottom bolt not gone throuth, this is how the strut is held in... he states as problemetic si id say this was the case.

no way a strut should go through the hub if tightened properly.
 
looks like the metal hook on the strut hasnt been passed into the housing, and the bottom bolt not gone throuth, this is how the strut is held in... he states as problemetic si id say this was the case.

no way a strut should go through the hub if tightened properly.

Ah yes, I see the hook you're on about, that makes sense now.
 
It was passed through. I've got loads of experience with the ford and Renault fitment like this, never had a single problem. When i said problematic, I meant the top of the strt, notin to do with that. The tang has actually snapped off. And then slipped down the bolt causing it to bend outward into the position it is now. The tangs are made from thinner material than the STD shocks,which I did question about in my head when fitting. The bolt went through fine when fitting. Sorry for any spelling mistakes, I works faster than the iPhone can
 
if the top mount nut is secured fully at the top, then the strut shouldnt be moving downwards at all as the nut at the top will hold it secure to the body of the car, should only go so far down into the wheel bearing housing, then clamp the housing with the bolt,,, tbh if the hook had snapped, sheared off whatever, it still would hold in the wheel bearing housing. i know as i had this happen years ago and it was fine.

were new bolts used in the wheel bearing housing? if not these wouldnt have gripped tightly, maybe, possibly allowing this to happen....

but as said it still should hold from the top mount end.

those wheel bearing housings are hard enoug to split with the hub nut tool vw use, nevermind a strut slipping through.
 
New bolts wernt used. They are now. Fitted some new high tensile ones after that comment. Wasn't aware they had to be changed! Difference between marques I guess!
 
were the tubes the same diameter as the original shox ?

if they were smaller in any way it wouldn't matter how tight you bolted em in

either that or could have been one hell of a speedbump/pothole
 
New bolts wernt used. They are now. Fitted some new high tensile ones after that comment. Wasn't aware they had to be changed! Difference between marques I guess!

Any bolt that is tightening to a specific angle rather than a specific torque should be replaced. That includes cylinder head bolts, hub nuts, and most of the suspension fixings.

To be fair, SEAT price the bolts accordingly. For example, I've just paid £21 for every single nut and bolt that I'll be using to replace my bushes, about 18 items if I added it up right? So you would have only been looking at perhaps a fiver to get the proper parts.
 
hi dan, did you get this sorted as this has just happend to mine (on the raceland coilovers) after 6 weeks of use. the tang hasnt snapped but has bent. i used new pinch bolts as mine looked quite worn. just want to get sorted before i put the new CV boots on. cheers