flip key info thread

[JontyLad]

Hi Jontylad

You've got one up on me matey as I don't have my SKC. My flip key is one from ebay - one with 1J0 in the serial number (rather than 1K0) oh and it's a DA. The middle 'boot' button works on it too, which is a bonus. I've posted a couple of pics a few posts ago in this thread so people can see the serial number of the remote which has worked for me on my '05.

TBH having hunted through this massive thread, some people seem to have 433Mhz and some 434Mhz printed on their remotes...I don't believe it matters.

I now have two remote keys, one flip and the other the standard one. Plus a normal non remote key which I had to take the transponder out of to help make the flip key.

As i say, I don't have my SKC but do have a virgin transponder so I guess I'd have to go to a main stealer to get the transponder coded?

Hey thanks for reply Red Panda. I'm starting wonder what functions I'll get from the key that I orderd from ebay If any!). I was a bit impetuous and just dived in with both the proverbials. The part number off the key I have ordered is HLO 1KO 959 753 G (434MHz).

What will be will be I suppose, it's really not the end of the world is it if it turns out useless. I've bricked a few expensive mobiles in the past so this will just get added to the long list of failures!

In answer to what you were saying about having the virgin transponder chip - Yes, it would be a case of going to a main dealer, finding an auto electrician or ordering a cable and software off ebay that can retrieve the PIN code from the immobiliser cluster in your car. I paid around £40 for a cable and a bit of software (VAG Tacho I believe it was called) that connects through the OBD socket and after a very nervous wait comes up with a 4 digit code from the clocks. I got my code from an 02 Golf 1.8T and a 53 Golf 4Motion with minimal fuss. For some reason I had to add a zero to the beginning of the 4 digit code before it allowed me to access the cluster and add keys?

I would like to take this oportunity to say that these cables and software off ebay aren't really the way to go and can cause a whole world of pain if they happen to erase something they shouldn't or lock you out of your clocks/cluster/immobiliser. I had 2 roaring successes and one catastrophy that stopped me from starting one of my Golfs even with the correct original keys. So you've all been warned!

Thanks,

Jon.

 

[JontyLad]

Forgot to mention that I will report back on whether or not I get full functionality out of the 3 button flip key and also whether or not the central locking automatically codes itself when I add the new key to the car with VCDS.

This is the Carlsberg of forums fellas! I have joined most forums for each model of car I've owned but this one seems to have the easiest to find and most apt info I've seen yet.

Thanks a lot to all contributors.

Jon.

 

[darkhorse]

The part number off the key I have ordered is HLO 1KO 959 753 G (434MHz).

I don't think this will work on your car mate. The 1KO keys are for the newer cars working on the canbus protocol.

Also, the tag on your spare key doesn't have the SKC either (well mine doesn't). If there was a scratch off panel on the tag then it would be under there.

Personally, I used Vag K+Can to retrieve the SKC and then used VagCom/VCDS to do the actual coding as I didn't trust the ebay K+Can cable and software to write any info to the cluster.

I'd be happy to help retrieve anyones SKC for them. I'm near Barnsley at weekends and in Manchester (Salford) during the week

 

[JontyLad]

Hi darkhorse.

Yeah I'm inclined to agree with you re the 1K0 key crack but I'll give it a go and see what happens. I may try one of the remote coding methods to see if it will mate upto the central locking before committing to trying to fully add it to the car. If it doesn't work then I take it I could go for a 3 button 1J0 part number? I'm not too bothered about the boot button working, it's just that there appears to be quite a few 3 button remote flips on ebay at this time and the boot opener would be great if it worked.

I've just fired up my laptop now as the suspense is killing me to see if I do have the SKC on my plastic tag. There's a White label on the plastic tag that has perforations down 1 side of it as if it has had something torn away at some stage but the piece that remains has a 7 digit code printed on it. Here's hoping eh!

Cheers,

Jon

 

[darkhorse]

Hi darkhorse.

Yeah I'm inclined to agree with you re the 1K0 key crack but I'll give it a go and see what happens. I may try one of the remote coding methods to see if it will mate upto the central locking before committing to trying to fully add it to the car. If it doesn't work then I take it I could go for a 3 button 1J0 part number? I'm not too bothered about the boot button working, it's just that there appears to be quite a few 3 button remote flips on ebay at this time and the boot opener would be great if it worked.

I've just fired up my laptop now as the suspense is killing me to see if I do have the SKC on my plastic tag. There's a White label on the plastic tag that has perforations down 1 side of it as if it has had something torn away at some stage but the piece that remains has a 7 digit code printed on it. Here's hoping eh!

Cheers,

Jon

A 1J0 key should work and my 1J0 959 759 AH with 3 buttons works fine incl the boot release. I do believe that the boot release can be enabled in VagCom but I can't remember where I noticed it when I was messing around going through the blocks.

It sounds like you have the same tag as me. My tag has 7 digits, 2 numbers on the top line and 5 below it.

 

[JontyLad]

Yeah darkhorse you're right about the tag that I have and as you said it ain't the SKC at all mate....Gutted.

It means I'll have to use the transponder out of one of my existing keys or get it coded at a stealers establishment - (That ain't gonna happen).

I might look for my cable and Vag Tacho stuff but I think I ruined them a while back when I mistakingly tried to update the firmware of the cable.

Another thing I noticed just for peoples' info was that the SKC method of looging in looks harder than with the code that certain software and cables can obtain for you. With the SKC method of logging in you're also required to provide the WSC - Workshop Code and Importer Code.

I'll sort something out because I want my 3 button flip or there'll be tears before bedtime!

Cheers all,

Jon

 

[JontyLad]

Keys Coded Correctly

Hi all.

Just to recap - I have a 2008 Ibiza 1.9 TDi FR. It is the last of the older shaped cars (6L version). I have been doing a bit of investigation/info gathering about which flip style keys will work with my car as when I bought it it came with the standard 2 button remote non-flip key and also a non-remote key.

Just thought that I would report back on my progress with the key coding issues/discussions. I ordered two second hand 3 button remote flip keys from ebay. One was a SEAT key the other a VW key.

I have been waiting for all the keys to arrive (from ebay sellers) and to get them cut before I started the coding and matching of the keys to my car's instrument cluster and central locking.

I went to Carlisle this morning and got 3 keys cut at a small Timpson's outlet. The bloke behind the counter was very anxious and quite smug to inform me that he could indeed cut the keys but that I wouldn't be able to use them on my car as they wouldn't be coded correctly. I told him that I had all the necessary software and lead to do my own coding at which point he changed his tune somewhat. 2 of the keys were the full remote and flip key assembly the third was just the head of the flip key ie the smaller of the two parts you are left with when you split a key - the part with the transponder chip and key blade attached.

In a nut shell (because I do tend to ramble on a bit, I know, I can't help it!) all of the keys that I had cut fit sweetly into the door and ignition barrel and all have been successfully added to the car. I coded the two original keys that I got with my car and the 3 from ebay.

To my surprise the genuine SEAT key that I got from an ebay seller that had a new transponder chip fitted in it coded no problem and also works the central locking. I was surprised because I had pretty much resigned myself to the fact that the key I had bought was from a newer model and probably wouldn't work (as discussed earlier in this thread).

The part number of the genuine SEAT key is HLO 1K0 959 753 G according to the little date clock stamp inside the head of the key it was manufactured 01/2009. The remote button part of the key says 06 / 07 HELLA 434MHz. Now what I'm thinking is that the flip key part of the fob could easily have been refitted with a transponder chip that is made for cars like mine but as for the remote part it looks pretty much mint and unmolested so I would guess that a HLO 1K0 part number will work the central locking on a 6L type Ibiza.

The other key I got from ebay (the VW 3 button type) has the part number:

HLO 1J0 959 753 AH and other scribings say 07 / 03 HELLA 434MHz.

I have not as yet managed to get the boot release working with either of the 3 button fobs that I have. It's a little disappointing but not too much of a downer really. Does anyone know if this can be enabled with VCDS please? I'm off to check this out now as I think it would be a decent feature to have if possible.

I think the over riding piece of advice here is that if you fancy a flip key for your car then buy one with a tried and tested part number as is mentioned in various parts of this very informative thread. If like me you fancy taking a risk and possibly wasting £30 to £40 then go for it!

Just another quick bit of info that I forgot to add - When I had coded all the keys to my immobiliser via the VCDS software I tried all the remote enabled ones and none but the original would work the central locking. I followed one of the guides about how to match keys to the central locking using the Orininal key in the ignition and locking the drivers door with the key you want to code then removing the key and pressing the lock button etc etc and it worked a charm for me on both the SEAT and VW 3 button fobs.

Thanks.

Jon.

 

[Doodle@MAU]

Well, having gone through everything on this thread I'm now thoroughly confused.

I have 1 key for my car currently, an original non-flip 2 button key, 433Mhz

I've sourced a new flip key HLO 1J0 959 753 AH, 434Mhz. It's cut and the transponder programmed, so it will start the car ok, but I can't get the remote to program.
To my knowledge, the red light on the remote has only lit once when I first got it; pressing any of the buttons now gets no light. I'm guessing this means the remote is knackered? (tried changing batteries)

 

[Red Panda]

Hi Doodle@MAU, I hope the following might work for you.

*Thanks to PhilHarris68 for his input earlier in the thread.

i followed these instructions and it worked first time for me:


Remote Control Programming (1997 ON)

Procedure
1. Switch Ignition ON and leave the key in the ignition.

2. Mechanically lock the vehicle using the Drivers door using a second
key.

3. Using the remote control press the Unlock button once, and the horn
will sound once.

4. Wait 6 seconds and press the unlock button once to activate the coding
procedure. The remote control will now be programmed.

NOTE : When performing programming on additional remotes the procedure
is the same, except you press the unlock button 2, 3 or 4 times for the
different remote.

If you have any problems or questions please e-mail me and I'll try to help.

For example : If programming 2 remotes press the unlock button twice with
a 1 second interval between each press, repeat for 3 and 4 remotes.

Or...

I found this method which seems to differ slightly and might just work for you:

- car is locked
- unlock with normal key manually at drivers door lock
- IGN ON with normal key ... leave it there
- use NEW remote key to lock the car manually at drivers door lock
- remove remote key from door lock
- press "lock" at the NEW key, indicator lights will flash
- then hold the "unlock" for ~3 sec. and indicators will flash long and the doors should unlock
- coding procedure should be successfully finished.

See if this slightly different second method works Veyron. I've got my fingers crossed for yer

PS I also read somewhere the whole procedure should be carried out in under 30 seconds

and...

ok i've bunged together a quick video of the flip key, details and the pairing process,

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1J4NquusPK0

hopefully this will help (apologies it is a bit crap )

Good Luck Matey

 

[Doodle@MAU]

Sorry, should have made that clear, been through all that already, no joy. My friendly local dealer also gave it a go, and got nowhere either.

Hence I'm either thinking that my remote section is borked (no red light on pressing buttons, despite a fresh battery), or something else is afoot.

 

[Red Panda]

This is the ebay item I bought which works fine on my motor. It's the DA type remote and the boot button on it works great with my FR Tdi.

With the red LED not working on your remote I'm wondering if it's broke TBH.

 

[Doodle@MAU]

That was my thought...I'll try ordering another one - even if this one turns out to be fried the casing and buttons might prove useful.

 

[Red Panda]

Nice one fella, let me know if I can be any further help

 

[Joe_3490]

I have got a flip key from ebay, but there is nowwhere in the key put place transponder, Also whats best way of getting transponder out of the old non remote key?

Joe

 

[Red Panda]

I have got a flip key from ebay, but there is nowwhere in the key put place transponder, Also whats best way of getting transponder out of the old non remote key?

Joe

The transponder goes in the key blade part of the flip key.

The best way I found to get my transponder out of the non remote key was to use nail varnish remover on the glue and a pin - not forgetting being super patient and careful not to break the glass. I believe the transponders are really easy to break. Good luck

 

[Joe_3490]

The transponder goes in the key blade part of the flip key.

The best way I found to get my transponder out of the non remote key was to use nail varnish remover on the glue and a pin - not forgetting being super patient and careful not to break the glass. I believe the transponders are really easy to break. Good luck

Cool when you say in the blade part im not sure where, or do you need to open that top part up??

Joe


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Red Panda]

Cool when you say in the blade part im not sure where, or do you need to open that top part up??

Joe


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hey Joe, Here's a link to a VW forum where one of their members has done some excellent piccies which will help you. The pics show the blade bit of the key and how it comes apart as well as the location of the transponder.

Linky to some good flip key pics

PS I hope I haven't broken any rules linking to another forum? If I have, Moderators please accept my humble apologies. I am in now way affiliated to that forum.

 

[Joe_3490]

The transponder goes in the key blade part of the flip key.

The best way I found to get my transponder out of the non remote key was to use nail varnish remover on the glue and a pin - not forgetting being super patient and careful not to break the glass. I believe the transponders are really easy to break. Good luck

haha i see what you mean by being super patient, its doing my head in scraping around the edge, How long did it take you and what was your method of doing it?

 

[Red Panda]

Ahhh I used my GF's nail varnish remover and a pin with the tip bent over so I could get underneath - took me a couple of hours while I watched telly. Oh and I used a scalpel to cut the inside edge away, again I was super careful

 

[Ed_Sutch]

Get the dremel out, after 5 mins of being careful with a tiny screwdriver I thought it was easier to spend 5 minutes with the dremel destroying the old key lol