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Matt's Cordoba SX *Not your average Cordy :P*
- Thread starter Cordy_Matt
- Start date
iirc they are indeed the same fit, and equal size but if not i'm sure they can be made to fit
let me get my mitts on some and i'll find out need to be electric though lol! so i hope they arent a wiring nightmare! haha!
haha no worries dude! right land of nod time, got to be up at 7 am to fit and bleed up a new slave cylinder and feed hose to my mum's mini ready for her to leave on a run at midday..... love family work....Grrrr! haha
Night all
Night all
OOOOH who else has TT comps on a cordy?? linky??
I do...
http://www.seatcupra.net/forums/showthread.php?t=121227
Pete
Wow they look to be fitted really well, are they running adapters or have you converted to 5x100 hubs??
looks nice against the Blue
I hope you don't think im stealing your thunder with the same wheels..... i really had no idea!
Matt
Howdy again all!
Just a little update
Had the wheels on for a bit of measuring.....
Now i know i'll need 20mm spacers for the stance i want at the back! then a couple degrees of camber dialled in, should tuck in juuuuuuust right
anyways as they say pics or it didn't happen
Then there was me arsing around a bit
And then test fitted.... i have another pic of it with the weight of the car on it.... but thats a surprise i'll save till theyre on for good!
again thanks for reading!
Matt
Just a little update
Had the wheels on for a bit of measuring.....
Now i know i'll need 20mm spacers for the stance i want at the back! then a couple degrees of camber dialled in, should tuck in juuuuuuust right
anyways as they say pics or it didn't happen
Then there was me arsing around a bit
And then test fitted.... i have another pic of it with the weight of the car on it.... but thats a surprise i'll save till theyre on for good!
again thanks for reading!
Matt
Thats exactly what i was thinking
and if it fails i'll just tape a normal indicator to the window on the drivers and passenger doors MOT time haha!! inside of course 
Wow they look to be fitted really well, are they running adapters or have you converted to 5x100 hubs??
looks nice against the Blue
I hope you don't think im stealing your thunder with the same wheels..... i really had no idea!
Matt
Done properly, no adapters, everything converted to 5x100.
As long as you don't copy everything I'm doing I'm not fussed
Pete
Done properly, no adapters, everything converted to 5x100.
As long as you don't copy everything I'm doing I'm not fussed
Pete
hahaha i wont
what were the donor parts you used to convert if you don't mind me asking?and you know what they say, great minds think alike
hahaha i wont
and you know what they say, great minds think alike
All the info is in the thread.
They also say imitation is the highest form of flattery.
Pete
Hahaha cheeky!! like it! i think the wheels are where the similarities end with our cars haha!
Cheers
Matt
like it! i think the wheels are where the similarities end with our cars haha! Cheers
Matt
Little update... i am now deaf!
Yeah so i might have wired in my audio and yes its loud! and i found that i'll have to dynomat the roof, the rear 1/4's, doors, bulkhead, and pretty much everywhere! all the wiring is now in pipe lagging also, to stop rattles! oh and good job im getting rid of the mirrors.... the covers really vibrate well
Pics to follow when sound deadening has occured!
Cheers
Matt
Yeah so i might have wired in my audio
and yes its loud! and i found that i'll have to dynomat the roof, the rear 1/4's, doors, bulkhead, and pretty much everywhere! all the wiring is now in pipe lagging also, to stop rattles! oh and good job im getting rid of the mirrors.... the covers really vibrate well Pics to follow when sound deadening has occured!
Cheers
Matt
What you fitted? Gonna have a sweet install in mine eventually, I miss having my competition kit in.
okay here's the list
Kenwood double-din HU
Vibe components, mids in doors, tweeters in dash, amped with JBL 200w rms amp hidden in dash
Fli 3ways on rear shelf, not amped just there to fill in if i ever have passengers (hardly ever too low)
2x audiobahn 12" subs, in correct depth box's run by a kenwood 400w rms 2 channel amp (200w about optimal i thought per sub) and just for kicks a Pioneer 12" sub run by a shitty fusion 200w mono amp, this will be removed asap, and replaced by a nice vibe black box and an alphasonik 12" reverse mounted
1 fharad in-phase capacitor, just to stop the dimming at a reasonable volume, not fussed when its cranked up as it will be purely for a min or two to show off haha!
Oh its all wired in with 4awg live and earths branching off to 8awg from the cap to amps bar the front amp which is just 8wg from the battery itself
Kenwood double-din HU
Vibe components, mids in doors, tweeters in dash, amped with JBL 200w rms amp hidden in dash
Fli 3ways on rear shelf, not amped just there to fill in if i ever have passengers (hardly ever too low
)2x audiobahn 12" subs, in correct depth box's run by a kenwood 400w rms 2 channel amp (200w about optimal i thought per sub) and just for kicks a Pioneer 12" sub run by a shitty fusion 200w mono amp, this will be removed asap, and replaced by a nice vibe black box and an alphasonik 12" reverse mounted
1 fharad in-phase capacitor, just to stop the dimming at a reasonable volume, not fussed when its cranked up as it will be purely for a min or two to show off haha!
Oh its all wired in with 4awg live and earths branching off to 8awg from the cap to amps
bar the front amp which is just 8wg from the battery itself 
The system sounds rather good. Bet it is rather loud when the volume is turned up abit. .
Quick question for your, how did you go about doing the smoothing of your front bumper??
.Quick question for your, how did you go about doing the smoothing of your front bumper??
The system sounds rather good. Bet it is rather loud when the volume is turned up abit.
Quick question for your, how did you go about doing the smoothing of your front bumper??
Its funny you should ask now actually, as i've been re-doing it today!!
(being as low as it was, its took its fair share of knocks lol)
First of all, i've plastic welded up where the foglights are, used another bumper i had laying around, made cardboard templates and cut the plastic to fit the recesses, welded them in, added fiberglass for strength and filler to smooth it in!
The middle grill has also been removed, and the recess smoothed to mimic the actual grill so now it looks like the bumper has a mouth if you get me? im just trying to source some suitably sized vw slatted grill to mount behind the bumper opening to match my grill!
The plate recess was much of the same, plastic welded up the holes behind the plate, then fiberglassed and filled smooth
job done okay here's the list
Kenwood double-din HU
Vibe components, mids in doors, tweeters in dash, amped with JBL 200w rms amp hidden in dash
Fli 3ways on rear shelf, not amped just there to fill in if i ever have passengers (hardly ever too low
2x audiobahn 12" subs, in correct depth box's run by a kenwood 400w rms 2 channel amp (200w about optimal i thought per sub) and just for kicks a Pioneer 12" sub run by a shitty fusion 200w mono amp, this will be removed asap, and replaced by a nice vibe black box and an alphasonik 12" reverse mounted
1 fharad in-phase capacitor, just to stop the dimming at a reasonable volume, not fussed when its cranked up as it will be purely for a min or two to show off haha!
Oh its all wired in with 4awg live and earths branching off to 8awg from the cap to amps
Ditch the Capacitor
Upgrade the cables to 2awg+
Upgrade the earth cables under the bonnet and the cable from the Alt to battery+
Make sure the earth in the boot is spot on.
You wont get any dimming then if your Alt is working fine. Biggest misconception is that the lights dim on low levels so add a cap. That's the wrong way to fix the problem, it's normally 99% of the time due to poor earthing and insufficient cable sizes.
When I was competing, I was running ~2KWRMS and not a single cap in sight. Oh and that was 2KW of real Genesis RMS not the made up numbers most brands use
Pete
I don't need 2awg, 4awg has an ampare rating to 60 amps, which is far more than i'm using, there's no need for 2awg with my setup :S the wiring on my 3 phase 200amp compressor is 0awg..... i think it will be good enough for a couple of 600w (RMS i'm no fool and believe the hype of "peak" power lmao!) amps, the cap is staying because it does serve a purpose, i like quick, hard hitting bass, and it supplies the current when its needed.... thats the idea.... im not saying the way your setup worked was wrong... i'm just saying i won't be changing mine because its more than adequate for the task it has to perform. the wiring to the alt is all new, all earths are new, and the earth in the rear of the car is welded to the body..... i highly doubt that is anywhere other than perfectly connected lol!Ditch the Capacitor
Upgrade the cables to 2awg+
Upgrade the earth cables under the bonnet and the cable from the Alt to battery+
Make sure the earth in the boot is spot on.
You wont get any dimming then if your Alt is working fine. Biggest misconception is that the lights dim on low levels so add a cap. That's the wrong way to fix the problem, it's normally 99% of the time due to poor earthing and insufficient cable sizes.
When I was competing, I was running ~2KWRMS and not a single cap in sight. Oh and that was 2KW of real Genesis RMS not the made up numbers most brands use
Pete
The reason you could get away without using a capacitor is because you were in effect using the car's battery to supply the extra oomph that the alt couldn't provide, and as the cars battery is not designed to take rapid discharges of the sorts that my system will put on it the capacitor will be staying, as it is designed for this purpose!
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