Found my answer to what the valve does: -
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/424454-Re-Hash-on-the-N249-Valve
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/424454-Re-Hash-on-the-N249-Valve
The correct way to do an N249 bypass the full guide
- Thread starter mc funbot
- Start date
Removing the n249 just helps pick up. I notice it more as its on a track car so going through the gears it open an snapping shut is whats needed the little black box is an air chamber. They dont always fill quick enough an can make for jurking some times.
as for bam guide they are doing what im doing. But leaving all the crap on top not so sure about they are the same as the tt set up all on top of the engine.ive done a new an removed the pipes an just left the resister an that was ok from the feed back of the customer.
Its nice to see my guide working an people looking in to stuff aswell. I know this has done people well on other places to.
as for bam guide they are doing what im doing. But leaving all the crap on top not so sure about they are the same as the tt set up all on top of the engine.ive done a new an removed the pipes an just left the resister an that was ok from the feed back of the customer.
Its nice to see my guide working an people looking in to stuff aswell. I know this has done people well on other places to.
Removing the n249 just helps pick up. I notice it more as its on a track car so going through the gears it open an snapping shut is whats needed the little black box is an air chamber. They dont always fill quick enough an can make for jurking some times.
as for bam guide they are doing what im doing. But leaving all the crap on top not so sure about they are the same as the tt set up all on top of the engine.ive done a new an removed the pipes an just left the resister an that was ok from the feed back of the customer.
Its nice to see my guide working an people looking in to stuff aswell. I know this has done people well on other places to.
as for bam guide they are doing what im doing. But leaving all the crap on top not so sure about they are the same as the tt set up all on top of the engine.ive done a new an removed the pipes an just left the resister an that was ok from the feed back of the customer.
Its nice to see my guide working an people looking in to stuff aswell. I know this has done people well on other places to.
Finally got round to doing what you told me to do the other day. Since 't'ing the sai hose into the DV line the sai is a lot quieter on start up (sounded like a jet plane before). After running around a couple of day while I waiting to get my EML turned off the light turned off its self and has not come on since.
Anybody with the code after doing this bypass should do this! My engine code is AUQ btw. Can get some pictures if anybody is unsure. Thanks for your help mc funbot!
demonskills
Guest
help please
Hi buddy in pic 20 where you take the plate off and remove all the pipes..what is that called?? I have a seat leon 1.8t 20v with the n249 bypass but the plate you have taken off is missing and the two connectors are not plugged in there just hagging there!! when I hit 3.5/4 rpm the car holds back and stutters, when this happens I can hear a valve breaking down surcharge sound could this be the n75 valve breaking down?? iv only had the car a few weeks and it was running fine but since the car started playing up it feels like its over boosting and running rich, iv replaced the MAF sensor, spark plugs, coil packs and its running better but still stuttering and holding back at 3.5/4 rpm had it on computer yesterday here is the outcome.
fault code 17840 secondary air inlet valve n112 open circuit
fault code 17695 recirc vavle for turbo n249 short circ. open circ. voltage supply to low
fault code 17968 (p1560) maximum engine speed exceeded
sporadic fault
fault code 17608 (p1200) recirculating valve for turbo charger n249 mechanical malfunction.
I take it the n75 cant cope with the boost?? am i right i need a new n75 valve?? or is it becasue of the two connectors that or not connected??
I have a seat leon 1.8t 20v 2002
many thanks
Hi buddy in pic 20 where you take the plate off and remove all the pipes..what is that called?? I have a seat leon 1.8t 20v with the n249 bypass but the plate you have taken off is missing and the two connectors are not plugged in there just hagging there!! when I hit 3.5/4 rpm the car holds back and stutters, when this happens I can hear a valve breaking down surcharge sound could this be the n75 valve breaking down?? iv only had the car a few weeks and it was running fine but since the car started playing up it feels like its over boosting and running rich, iv replaced the MAF sensor, spark plugs, coil packs and its running better but still stuttering and holding back at 3.5/4 rpm had it on computer yesterday here is the outcome.
fault code 17840 secondary air inlet valve n112 open circuit
fault code 17695 recirc vavle for turbo n249 short circ. open circ. voltage supply to low
fault code 17968 (p1560) maximum engine speed exceeded
sporadic fault
fault code 17608 (p1200) recirculating valve for turbo charger n249 mechanical malfunction.
I take it the n75 cant cope with the boost?? am i right i need a new n75 valve?? or is it becasue of the two connectors that or not connected??
I have a seat leon 1.8t 20v 2002
many thanks
Post a photo up of the engine bay for me to take a look at. Not having them plugged shouldnt make it drive different.n75 should handle boost if you over boost will go in to limp mode. Have you cleared all the fault codes an see what comes back after a few days? Make sure you have no split pipes or open pipe work. Check the pipe under the inlet manifold in the middle they are commen to split. .
demonskills
Guest
hi mate and thanks for the reply, yes I have checked all over for splits but everything is ok, the same fault codes keep popping up.
fault code 17840 secondary air inlet valve n112 open circuit
fault code 17695 recirc vavle for turbo n249 short circ. open circ. voltage supply to low
fault code 17968 (p1560) maximum engine speed exceeded
sporadic fault
fault code 17608 (p1200) recirculating valve for turbo charger n249 mechanical malfunction.
but as I put my foot down the car pulls how it should but then it holds back and starts to stutter I can hear a loud ticking nose like a valve is shorting out its getting very annoying now grrrrrr!!!!
from start up when cold it jerks about al over the place when driving through gears not even hitting boost and turbo, when it gets warm it will either go into limp mode or be ok or start stuttering and surging its so frustrating.
Because im new it wont let me upload pics yet, do you have an email i can send you the pics many thanks.
fault code 17840 secondary air inlet valve n112 open circuit
fault code 17695 recirc vavle for turbo n249 short circ. open circ. voltage supply to low
fault code 17968 (p1560) maximum engine speed exceeded
sporadic fault
fault code 17608 (p1200) recirculating valve for turbo charger n249 mechanical malfunction.
but as I put my foot down the car pulls how it should but then it holds back and starts to stutter I can hear a loud ticking nose like a valve is shorting out its getting very annoying now grrrrrr!!!!
from start up when cold it jerks about al over the place when driving through gears not even hitting boost and turbo, when it gets warm it will either go into limp mode or be ok or start stuttering and surging its so frustrating.
Because im new it wont let me upload pics yet, do you have an email i can send you the pics many thanks.
Where abouts are you based? Im sure someone about has an old n112 amd n249 you can have.or get resisters of ebay. we will sort it mate.
Not very often this bypass does this.what mods are on the car?
[email protected] is my email.
we will sort it mate.Not very often this bypass does this.what mods are on the car?
[email protected] is my email.
Ryanisadipper
Guest
Do you just need one pipe running straight through once you removed everything else? So I only need to buy one extra pipe?
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Ryanisadipper
Guest
hi just done the N249 bypass, because I had a VCDS fault saying N249 mechanical failure, have reset fault code, and driven car for a couple of days, but the fault code has returned, should I be getting the fault code with it removed, the N249 plate has been replaced and both plugs reconnected, as didn't want to play with resistors.
Cheers Chris
Cheers Chris
There is no pipes attached to the n249? The 2 in and 1 pipe should be blocked as shown on the how2. Ive not had this before mate.how does the car drive?
Hi. all pipes taken off N 249 block, I only have one pipe blocked with Allen bolt though, should their be more ? did the bypass as I had major hesitation, which I thought might be being caused by the n249 fault, the hesitation is improved, but car seems to have a little less power than before.
Whilst we were doing it, i noticed a bad split in Y shaped hose to PCV valve, repaired for the minute, PCV delete next job, but can't find the guide for it, or n75 valve.
Cheers Chris
Whilst we were doing it, i noticed a bad split in Y shaped hose to PCV valve, repaired for the minute, PCV delete next job, but can't find the guide for it, or n75 valve.
Cheers Chris
Last edited:
n75 stays thats your boost controller. you dont really delete the pcv system unless you fit a catch can.. you need to get some pics up buddy. if put it down to somethings else not n249 system.. if its helps can email me them? [email protected]
Seat fitted it as a safety measure to prevent overboost, the reason people (we) remove it all is that components tend to degrade/fail over time and the system becomes inefficient/faulty. The options are; remove it or replace the parts (which costs more and means they will only fail again later). Remember the old saying; keep it simple, stupid! Applies here.
Hi there I just bought an 04 plate cupra 1.8t and keep getting the 17705/16795 codes so I posted a picture on here as I had all sorts ov pipes missing ect a top bloke said it looks like the bypass thing so I was just wondering maybe it could be that what is bringing my codes up if not done propley I only ask as I have just seen one done but they teed into the fuel regulator but yours doesn't? But after looking at mine and what you did mine looks the same so maybe it's not that whats bringing my codes up? Thanks matt
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