Doing some work on my Ibiza

[corndog]

Been looking around at engines. Anybody ever swap out a PD100 for something more powerful?

Looks like i could get a decent engine for under £400 just dunno if they are a ballache to fit? Happy to buy the tools but if compatibility and skill is a huge issue i won't really consider it

 

[Arkaig]

I'd be more concerned about the insurance as an engine upgrade will class as a pretty hefty 'mod', and you may be penalized for much more than it would cost to insure an FR or cupra for example. You might need to source/swap the supporting gubbins (turbo, intercooler, ecu) too.

Don't let anyone stop you if you have your heart set on the learning experience though. It could be a lot of 'fun', in a spanner chucking ballache kind of way.

 

[corndog]

Hello again folks. I've got another question for anyone who is willing to help me out!

Car failed on MOT partly due to a bust rear caliper. I've replaced both rear calipers and got the footbrake all set up then on to the handbrake. I have it so that the return arm is about 1mm from the stop with handbrake off (i think this a requirment??) but when handbrake is applied it feels like i need to yank it too far, certainly beyond 4 clicks. I can't tighten it at the cup holder or the arms will pull away from the stops more. The self adjusting bar is fairly level

Anybody have any clues how i can tighten it up?
Maybe it is fine i just want to pass my MOT and get it back on the road!

Also. I first put the new calipers on old discs and pads but decided to change those too. When putting new pads in i was able to wind back the caliper so far but not as far back as the other unfitted one. it would keep spinning clockwise but not return right back! This meant I couldn't fit it on with the new thicker pads.

Thanks for any help!

 

[cheshire cat]

first the arm should be on the stop as the internal adjustment(self) is effectively a rachet system and assuming the foot brake works OK you will just have to work both until it's something like ok but you do need that arm on the stop to give enough travel inside the caliper adjust the number of clicks last

 

[RUM4MO]

I could be wrong, but I believe the handbrake arms should be "just clear" of the stop to operate correctly - now that is the official line, I can say that I adjust all my cars so that the arm touches the stop - just. So adjusting the cable will improve/reduce the handbrake handle travel.

Before doing any of the above, have you tried fully retracting these pistons by using the rewind tool, if so, and you still can not fully retract it, then I'd say that one of your "new" callipers is seizing so needing replaced/fixed. Once you have sorted that and fitted the new pads again, carry out the handbrake adjustment procedure - then adjust the cable to set the levers "just" on the stops.

New pads do take some time to bed in.

 

[corndog]

Thanks guys.

So what i did was set up the footbrake against the pads by pumping the brake till the piston was against the pads then put HB cable back in then pump that a few times then adjust the nut under the cupholder till the HB lever was just off stops.

So i guess there is the possibility that the HB mechanism inside the piston is not adjusted out yet but as far as i can tell it should be (pumping the HB before adjusting it) Will see if i can work that out.


I made a winding tool out of square tubing an angle grinder and a vice to grip it. Can easily rotate the piston and retract it most of the way very easilly. It still spins at that point but just wont go that extra 6or 7 mm in. It could be damaged but i think that's unlikely. Surprised i've found this so hard hahaha

Thanks!

 

[MW05]

Could it be the handbrake cables have stretched and just need replacing?

 

[RUM4MO]

Could it be the handbrake cables have stretched and just need replacing?

I'd doubt that unless someone has been extremely abusive with the handbrake, nowadays, these wire cables tend to stay at their initial length for their life time in service. Either way, there is scope to shorten the cable's effective length using the threaded section at the equaliser.

If the OP had used the correct wind back tool, he would have been able to fully retract both pistons and that also means fully retracting the handbrake adjustment/movement within the pistons. I'd suggest that the correct procedure when retracting the pistons for any reason is:- slacken off the handbrake cable at the internal operating lever so that the calliper levers are on their stops with handbrake off > pump brake pedal to bring the pistons out to meet the pads/discs - hold pedal down > operate handbrake (fully) about a dozen times > take car for a run that involves braking a lot and continue to operate the handbrake > if handbrake lever is seriously high after this, adjust it slightly to reduce lever travel > revisit this setting after a week's use and readjust to "just" have the calliper levers on/off their stops.

 

[corndog]

I ended up just replacing the calipers pads and discs on the rear hahahaha. not an elegant solution but rebuilding the caliper could have taken me a while. passed the MOT but i did a crap job of bleeding the system so will re do that soon. Thanks for the help everyone!

 

[corndog]

Hello again!

I'm looking for some advise.

I think i need to replace my dogbone bush. Going to probably try a powerflex one. I don't know if i want to spend money on all new bushes now but it seems cheaper to get the complete set? How much will it really improve handling?

I could do with a more solid feel and a rear ARB
I had a wee diesel fiesta on holiday and it made me realise my car handles quite poor but it manages ok thanks to the nice suspension.


First: handling
then brakes
then power.... maybe

 

[corndog]

Also.

How hard is a timing belt going to be?
There seems to be quite a few guides but i don't really have any engine experience
Is it easy enough to do with the engine in situ?

Thanks for any comments/advise!

 

[Arkaig]

Since you have a TDI then I advise against a poly dogbone. I added one to my 1.4 petrol and the vibration is quite something. On a TDI it will give you vibration white finger. There is a special 'red' poly dogbone mount for TDIs, but, if it were me I'd get a new OEM one as by now the original will be very tired. If that's too soft, fill the voids with a medium shore polyurethane sealant such as Sikaflex or Tigerseal.

Also, don't bother upgrading the upper engine mounts to poly for road use, for the same reasons. Either get new OEM or fill the voids with polyurethane.

If you want to improve handing I'd advise the following:

1) A good set of tyres and a proper 4 wheel alignment. Don't ignore the simple stuff. Ibizas can be very twitchy and unsettled without good alignment. If you're doing other work, you should do the alignment last.

2) TCA rear bushes -> swap for PU or Cupra ones. I used PSB bushes off ebay, they're about £20 and the handing and steering feedback improvement is immense. Don't use standard bushes as they are made out of swiss cheese.

3) Rear ARB as you suggested.

This assumes nothing else is worn / broken. Always start from a sound base. At 80k most of the bushes on my 1.4 were really tired and simply replacing them with new OEM ones made a massive difference to the handling. Also things like new inner/outer tie rods and ball joints sharpened mine up hugely as the originals had started to show some play.

 

[Arkaig]

I recommend getting a hold of the Mk4 Haynes manual, it has DIY guides for timing belts and just about everything else.

 

[corndog]

Got the manual, pretty decent

I had an alignment done a while back, really helped.
both tie rods and lower ball joints replaced
i need to look at TCA rear bushes. might be solid already

I got fairly cheap tyres but happy with them till weather improves at least. need to check wear on newer tyres and see how even it is

Kinda think my front arb may be a bit bent and need new droplinks

 

[corndog]

Got the solid rear TCA bushes.

I did the whole lock to lock thing on the steering today when looking at the left engine mount and had a fair amount of bubbles. hard to say yet if it makes a difference.

I took off my doglink engine mount to look at ( cars been proper shaking under high load at low speed)
It's missing the rubber around the outside of the four thicker branches.

here's a picture. It is pretty flexible if i put a screwdriver through center and bend but that's not really the angle of the force applied by the engine so dunno!

Any ideas would be appreciated

 

[Arkaig]

Hard to tell from the photo, but it looks in much better nick than mine was. Mine had fractures all along the rubber legs and I could move it about with my fingers. I got a loud knock every time I changed gear.

Check the upper left mount under the battery. If you grab the engine and give it a proper shake front to back and you get either excessive movement or any knocking, it'll need replacing.

 

[corndog]

Thanks Arkaig.

I checked the left mount. seems decent condition. some movement if i yank the engine but pretty solid

I'm thinking it's either this mount, clutch related or timing related. hmmm

After driving around a bit last night. bleeding the air out of the steering has helped make it a bit more solid feeling, missed that for a while!