Starting / gearing issues

[paddy6789]

I'm wondering and hoping someone has had the same issues that I'm having at the moment...

• When starting the car from cold, it struggles to get past 500 revs or so, and then splutters down to about 100 revs. If I leave it, the car cuts out. But if I rev it before it gets as low as 100 revs, the car then seems fine, and idles around 800 when in drive, or 1100 when in sport as I’d expect normally. This problem occurs only when the car is cold. I have videos of this happening too. Any start after this when the car is warm, it’s compeltely fine and normal.
• The gearing seems to be a bit off. About 40% of the time, when pulling away in first (and not even full throttle stamping on the floor), just a normal easy pull away, there’s a lot of noise and a lot of revs, but not a lot of movement. I have to change it to 2nd gear in order to get some movement. It’s almost as though the 1st gear hasn’t quite engaged properly.
• Sometimes there’s also a very big jolt when pulling away in 1st gear, so the revs will build up, then drop as there’s a big jolt (assuming that’s the gear engaging).
• When changing down gears, in particular from 4th to 3rd and from 3rd to 2nd, the revs don’t match the speed as such. So as I’m braking and change down, the revs drop to idle speed, and then take a few seconds to rev back up to where they need to be.

I should note that it is a DSG, and that these issues have only occured since having the following bits of work completed:

• Racingline Intercooler
• Racingline Engine and upper transmission mounts
• Leyo boost hoses (Intercooler, throttle body and turbo outlet)
• Racingline Oil Management

The car is also running Racingline OEM+ Stage 2 and the Racingline DSG map.

The only thing that I can see that may have affected the car to behave like this, is that the battery had to come out to fit the upper transmission mount. The car is going in to have the maps 'reapplied' in case the car has 'lost' some settings the maps rely on whilst the battery was out.

 

[MEZ44]

Regarding the engine at cold start. Could be related to a few things, fuel pressure, coil plugs not fully 'charged' up, starter motor not providing enough power. This could be all down to power levels in the battery...?
For the gearbox, if you've had a gearbox map I would suggest to have that checked. Seems like a control issue
Hope that helps, also let us know what the issue was


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Deleted member 103408]

Just with regards to DSG and Engine maps i see more and more now they are putting in oil protection to stop you using full boost when you start the car up, do you have something like that on yours.

 

[paddy6789]

Regarding the engine at cold start. Could be related to a few things, fuel pressure, coil plugs not fully 'charged' up, starter motor not providing enough power. This could be all down to power levels in the battery...?
For the gearbox, if you've had a gearbox map I would suggest to have that checked. Seems like a control issue
Hope that helps, also let us know what the issue was


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Oddly, over the last few mornings, it's been much better. Still not normal, but it gradually gets up to the idle rev range on its own without me revving it.

The maps are going to get reapplied anyway (Racingline think a fresh set of files may correct the issues), and I'll get the battery and starter motor checked out too when they reapply the maps.

Interesting comment about the coil plugs - the earth connections and the coil packs were removed when the oil management was installed. The spark plugs have been upgraded to the Audi RS7 plugs, and have been in the car waaaaay before any of the other mods.

I forgot to mention that the water pump was also replaced due to the stock factory version being faulty and leaky. So it's been upgraded to an aluminium on, rather than shoddy plastic.

Thanks for your input

 

[paddy6789]

Just with regards to DSG and Engine maps i see more and more now they are putting in oil protection to stop you using full boost when you start the car up, do you have something like that on yours.

Interesting - I've not heard this from Racingline or VAG Manchester - but I'll certainly ask the question! Cheers

I've got the Racingline Oil Management system but that's more to prevent oil starvation of the engine in certain conditions, and it doesn't have any 'electrical' connections into the car, so in theory, the car doesnt actually know its there. If that makes sense.

 

[LouG]

It sounds like a problem with the idle control system. But it's clear these problems are caused by the work that was done, they need to remedy it.

 

[rozer1974]

I'm wondering and hoping someone has had the same issues that I'm having at the moment...

• When starting the car from cold, it struggles to get past 500 revs or so, and then splutters down to about 100 revs. If I leave it, the car cuts out. But if I rev it before it gets as low as 100 revs, the car then seems fine, and idles around 800 when in drive, or 1100 when in sport as I’d expect normally. This problem occurs only when the car is cold. I have videos of this happening too. Any start after this when the car is warm, it’s compeltely fine and normal.
• The gearing seems to be a bit off. About 40% of the time, when pulling away in first (and not even full throttle stamping on the floor), just a normal easy pull away, there’s a lot of noise and a lot of revs, but not a lot of movement. I have to change it to 2nd gear in order to get some movement. It’s almost as though the 1st gear hasn’t quite engaged properly.
• Sometimes there’s also a very big jolt when pulling away in 1st gear, so the revs will build up, then drop as there’s a big jolt (assuming that’s the gear engaging).
• When changing down gears, in particular from 4th to 3rd and from 3rd to 2nd, the revs don’t match the speed as such. So as I’m braking and change down, the revs drop to idle speed, and then take a few seconds to rev back up to where they need to be.

I should note that it is a DSG, and that these issues have only occured since having the following bits of work completed:

• Racingline Intercooler
• Racingline Engine and upper transmission mounts
• Leyo boost hoses (Intercooler, throttle body and turbo outlet)
• Racingline Oil Management

The car is also running Racingline OEM+ Stage 2 and the Racingline DSG map.

The only thing that I can see that may have affected the car to behave like this, is that the battery had to come out to fit the upper transmission mount. The car is going in to have the maps 'reapplied' in case the car has 'lost' some settings the maps rely on whilst the battery was out.

I changed my engine mounts to revo mounts recently and had some very weird faults afterwards car ran like crap and had about 8 faults after scan it took me a while to find out the cause , when you change the transmission mount you have to tilt the wiring harness quite a lot to get access to the back bolts to remove them if you jack the transmission up to far you can unplug a connector almost at the bulk head on the far right its very tight and has no slack on the wiring it will come loose like mine make sure you unplug and refit it listen out for the click so you know its in all the way . remember doing the transmission mount requires the ecu to be moved over and the wiring to be moved a lot I also found 1 wire that sits over the transmission had a slice in it so I tapped it up car is running good again no faults too just take battery out and look at the wiring under tray and the plug connector at the bulk head

 

[paddy6789]

I changed my engine mounts to revo mounts recently and had some very weird faults afterwards car ran like crap and had about 8 faults after scan it took me a while to find out the cause , when you change the transmission mount you have to tilt the wiring harness quite a lot to get access to the back bolts to remove them if you jack the transmission up to far you can unplug a connector almost at the bulk head on the far right its very tight and has no slack on the wiring it will come loose like mine make sure you unplug and refit it listen out for the click so you know its in all the way . remember doing the transmission mount requires the ecu to be moved over and the wiring to be moved a lot I also found 1 wire that sits over the transmission had a slice in it so I tapped it up car is running good again no faults too just take battery out and look at the wiring under tray and the plug connector at the bulk head

Well, this could be the issue then!

When they took they took the battery out, and then got to swapping out the transmission mount, they said that the Racingline mount was about 25mm out. So they had to ‘reroute’ and create a cable trunking piece to go around the mount, so that it would then fit.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk