
is that right? Why so expensive? Do you think il need a flywheel? It's about 2years old? If it's just slip and no judder or shacking or noise then flywheel will be ok. £600 for the st170 flywheel and £500 for a smf...is why I got rid of it because the nature of that car the flywheel nearly always needed replacing....life span 20k lmao.No i like the low rpm drives and then you feel the boost kick in as it works up the rpm! I love that feel! I'm just but 260 for the standard clutch! Not sure if that's gonna take another map with all the mods on the car! I'm hoping to see 280ish once done clutch n map! And actually the clutch and flywheel was done 06/06/2014 so now I've no idea lol no noises though.. I bet that when it comes to it.. Il have the money for the clutch to be replaced and then up on inspection il need a flywheel that I won't have any money for lol. What am I gonna do!
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Got rid of a st170 MK1 focus not the Leon.You got rid? Aren't mot 1.8ts the same? What are you driving now? It's a shame coz I'm gonna go for the 4puk clutch! Not sure about flywheel as I've no idea if it needs changing! And il probably not have the money at the time to change both!
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Subaru repairs cost far too much and too labour intensive for silly jobs..MK2 is rubbish imo.Ahh I see.. Isn't the leon a better car? My bro is looking at getting the 2.5ltrST but they drink petrol so bad! I was gonna go for a subaru impreza but they drink too! I think the cupra r or the 180 engines are quite good on petrol.. Sayin that.. Cupra r is using about £25/£30 petrol a week. But I could or bought a 260bhp subaru all standard but I really like the cupra r! And I didn't want to settle for the 180 Stage 2. I'm just wondering what the next figures a map on my cupra r Wil be once I've the new clutch in and had it mapped.
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I don't actually know about the TIP? Or what it is.. Unsure about the heat shield what can you tell by just looking?![]()
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Yeah, I thought so.. I love the car tbh. Only thing that let's it down is the clutch and paint chips but they are everywhere in little places. I'm gonna stop all the slip I can by driving normal and putting my foot down slowly giving the clutch time to keep up. Started doing it in 3rd now and sometimes in 5th. Wish I'd of tested it before I bought the car but when I test drove it the power seemed OK but I wasn't putting my foot down enough so I just assumed everything was well. Bloody annoyed now as I don't wanna end up with blue burn spots on the flywheel.No worries. Car looks good bud.
You have a heat shield. It’s just after the air filter.
TIP looks a decent size. It stands for Turbo Inlet Pipe. Big fat one that connects to the air filter and diverter/ dump valve. Although our car doesn’t dump. Just generic name.
Ours is a recirculating valve. You can buy others that recirc and dump to give extra pshhh when you lift off the gas.
Yours has been upgraded.
Engine bay has had some deletes done which tidy it up. Some say a good thing others disagree.
All in all looks good.
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Sparkle look at this! Should I do it? Man lol I dunno.. Scared of spending so much! But your clutch is basically the same isn't it? And this is like £18 more! But the I've been quoted £399 for the flywheel! But can have both for just over £577
Also phones Jabba sport today they are getting me a quote!![]()
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I wouldn't say need convincing, I fully understand yours if perfect for what I need! While the flywheel is OTT in price yet my current one might be ok to use still! And then Ebay have it cheaper for £249 and car euro have it for £469 down to £314 with there 50% discount! Bear with me! I'm getting this today! Now the clutch as in yours or the other I'd need the release bearing friction plate spring and spring cover aswel with yours as yours is without and I'm pretty sure the performance clutch on Car Euro comes without that too. Fair enough to say all parts go directly on to oem n so forth. But what I don't need is to have the garage take apart block and then I can't use the release bearing friction plate and spring/housing because they are no good! Don't get me wrong I'm very grateful for all your information, help and replys.. You've been brilliant and helping me its so much easier in person than typing to a screen lol. Forgive me if I've sounded a little slow at times.. Its an expensive job that I can't afford to get wrong or be waiting on parts. Hope you understand.Christ you take some convincing. You’ve asked about 20 times bud. Started countless threads.
This is not a bad thing you understand. Just slightly repetitive.
Unless someone else wants to step in and tell this guys any more pros and cons apart from prices and saving cash?
As said my piece which is a Sachs “upgrade” and fits with the rest of the normal clutch parts will give you a better longer lasting clutch in a mapped car. It was going on my car.
You know the spec of mine.
If not sure. Look at my readers ride.
It was recommended by Badger5
Recommended does not mean some sales chat to make me buy something.
Have you bothered to google Badger5 and Bill?
He is one of the original 1.8 20vT
Gurus.
I make the effort to drive 2hr each way to have him map my vehicle, because he knows his ****.
Give Bill a call. Have a chat with them about what they can do and what you should do to develop good power and how to lay it down too.
Thay don’t bite. Nice bunch.
As for clutch my piece will aid longevity etc.
It’s expensive yes. Does it work. Yes.
If money’s tight. Don’t bother. Put in the versions that save you money. A standard Sachs kit will be fine. May not last as long. But will work fine.
My advice. Don’t over think it. If money is no problem. Buy my piece and associated parts.
If not save some cash.
Use some to go and have your map done.
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