Jacking options

[SuperV8]

Ah!



I'm perhaps veering towards using ramps ( + chocks for the rear), I only recently bought the trolley jack (a Sealey 2.5 ton low profile one), so could actually return it to Halfords, though I guess might be useful if I ever need to take a wheel off. I'm a little nervous about getting the car onto ramps, though, can see it could all go horribly wrong if you mess up the approach or overshoot (though I guess having stops at the end make that less likely). I don't have a workshop (or the ability) to fabricate ramps myself, so would need to buy some off the shelf ones - maybe something like these Rhino Ramps. though the top platform looks a bit short?: https://dieselpartsdirect.co.uk/11909mie.html

I use the halfords orange metal ramps - good price and sturdy, reasonable height and just about low enough angle to work with the Leon low front bumper. If the angle is too steep it will hit the bumper before the wheel climbs the ramp.
When driving up them on my own I use the reflection in my neighbors car door to see how far up I am. If you don't have that you could position a mirror to show you where your wheel is.

 

[Metalogic]

The other alternative, seeing as I will still be getting the car dealer-serviced (or at a VAG-approved independent) at the normal service intervals would be just to use a vacuum oil extractor - obviously you can't change the oil filter then (I assume) and there will be a small amount of the old oil that you can't get out, but avoids having to get under the car... I just want to be able to change the oil more frequently than the normal (long) oil change service intervals, especially as I do quite a lot of short mileage journeys (but also some long ones). e.g. something like this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Pela-Oil-Extractor-PL-400/dp/B002EPN6S2

 

[eltawater]

There's nothing stopping you from jacking the car up on the sill one side, sliding a ramp under the front wheel and lowering the jack. Repeat the other side and you have the front end raised to get under and do your oil change. Just reverse all that before filling the car if you want it level (although i do most of the fill before lowering to level).

Sent from my moto g54 5G using Tapatalk

 

[Metalogic]

There's nothing stopping you from jacking the car up on the sill one side, sliding a ramp under the front wheel and lowering the jack. Repeat the other side and you have the front end raised to get under and do your oil change. Just reverse all that before filling the car if you want it level (although i do most of the fill before lowering to level).

Actually that doesn't sound such a daft idea, assuming there's little risk of the first wheel sliding sideways off the ramp whilst you're doing the other side? Also one possible advantage of doing it this way is I guess you might be able to get the car on a higher/steeper ramp than you might otherwise easily be able to when driving it up the ramp.

I could still be tempted to get a vacuum oil extractor to get most of the oil out, as looks to be a lot less messy that way and you're catching the oil directly into a container you can take straight to the recycling centre.

 

[RUM4MO]

I did buy an oil extractor for some reason, the first time I tried it out, I used it on my older daughter's car which at that time was a 2009 SEAT Ibiza 1.4 86PS - that just took too long for my liking and then there was the issue of having a lot of bits to clean out/up afterwards, so that never got used again on a car, maybe used it a couple of times on a petrol mower, but even now for that I just use a large syringe type of thing that is so easy to clean afterwards.

Always best to replace the oil filter when changing the engine oil, just make sure that you replace the sump plug sealing washer every time you take the drain plug out.

 

[Metalogic]

I did buy an oil extractor for some reason, the first time I tried it out, I used it on my older daughter's car which at that time was a 2009 SEAT Ibiza 1.4 86PS - that just took too long for my liking and then there was the issue of having a lot of bits to clean out/up afterwards, so that never got used again on a car, maybe used it a couple of times on a petrol mower, but even now for that I just use a large syringe type of thing that is so easy to clean afterwards.

Always best to replace the oil filter when changing the engine oil, just make sure that you replace the sump plug sealing washer every time you take the drain plug out.

Well if I'm able to drain the oil from the sump plug, I'd certainly change the oil filter (with another OEM one), but not sure that it's possible without removing the undertray (i.e. going the oil extractor route)?

 

[RUM4MO]

You will need to take the under cover off to reach the oil filter if its the 1.0TSI or 1,2TSI engine that is in your Ibiza.

Again, ideally you will need to buy a "cup" to fit over the oil filter to get a socket/torque wrench on to it, this again is if you have a 1.0TSI or 1.2TSI engine, VW Group, for these engines, fit Mahle oil filters at the engine assembly plant, but VW Group service workshops and parts department only stock and sell the Mann version - both versions obviously branded as VW Group parts - I just buy Mann oil filters without the VW Group branding.

 

[Metalogic]

You will need to take the under cover off to reach the oil filter if its the 1.0TSI or 1,2TSI engine that is in your Ibiza.

Again, ideally you will need to buy a "cup" to fit over the oil filter to get a socket/torque wrench on to it, this again is if you have a 1.0TSI or 1.2TSI engine, VW Group, for these engines, fit Mahle oil filters at the engine assembly plant, but VW Group service workshops and parts department only stock and sell the Mann version - both versions obviously branded as VW Group parts - I just buy Mann oil filters without the VW Group branding.

Yeah I have the 1.0 TSI engine (with the 110 PS tune) on my Ibiza FR, so yeah think I'll need to remove the undertray to get access to the oil filter.

I actually already bought a 74mm Hazet 2169 oil filter cup/wrench, AFAIK it's exactly the same as the oil filter tool VW use, except for the branding. Can be used with a 27mm socket or just a square 3/8" drive

 

[RUM4MO]

Good stuff wrt the filter cup, I've forgotten which make my one is, maybe even a Mann service tool, it didn't cost much though.

I'm adding in a link to a trolley jack that has a slot to let you lift on the sill strong points AND then locate an axle stand there - but remember I'm doing this for no other reason than just because I mentioned that type earlier on without offering any brands etc:-

Snapklik.com : Powerbuilt 620516 2 Ton

snapklik.com

I'm certain that there are other brands of the same sort of thing, typically called Ujacks I think now that I've found this one.

 

[Metalogic]

Good stuff wrt the filter cup, I've forgotten which make my one is, maybe even a Mann service tool, it didn't cost much though.

I'm adding in a link to a trolley jack that has a slot to let you lift on the sill strong points AND then locate an axle stand there - but remember I'm doing this for no other reason than just because I mentioned that type earlier on without offering any brands etc:-

Snapklik.com : Powerbuilt 620516 2 Ton

snapklik.com

I'm certain that there are other brands of the same sort of thing, typically called Ujacks I think now that I've found this one.

That particular Powerbuilt one doesn't seem to get great reviews on Amazon (US) or in the comments of a YouTube video I found about it (

), however looks like there are other jacks available with a similar concept e.g. https://rennstand.com/

Am tempted to just get a decent set of ramps (maybe even some Race Ramps, they're pretty pricey, but I like that they're solid, not hollow, and the RR56 model provides 8" of height) and chocks, possibly using a regular trolley jack to lower the car onto the top of the ramps. Could even put some jack stands underneath the reinforced sill jacking points afterwards for an additional layer of safety, or at least leave the jack in place as well.

 

[RUM4MO]

The only Race Ramps products that I’ve seen are their stacking “wheel cribs” they come in. 6” heights and are made to be able to stack 2 so that means a total wheel lift of 12” - which looks quite unstable to me, plus they or made of some very light weight crossed cell hard foam.
I’d expect the hollow plastic ramps would be okay, but maybe avail buying the ones from China - okay maybe everything is manufactured there, but try to select what from experience is a “good” brand (whatever that means!).

Don’t over think this, you should find it easy to feel/hear when you reach the end stop of ramps.

 

[Metalogic]

The only Race Ramps products that I’ve seen are their stacking “wheel cribs” they come in. 6” heights and are made to be able to stack 2 so that means a total wheel lift of 12” - which looks quite unstable to me, plus they or made of some very light weight crossed cell hard foam.

The ones I was thinking of are 8" high (not stacked - see below. It also sounds like you can get the "wheel cribs" in 8" or 10" height single piece units. I'm thinking maybe a pair of the 8" ones would be fine for an oil change.

 

[RUM4MO]

The wooden ramps that I fabricated are only 6" in height, and I can easily work under my wife's 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI, and also under my 2011 Audi S4, so aiming to buy some that is 8" in height should work well for you.

 

[Metalogic]

My

The wooden ramps that I fabricated are only 6" in height, and I can easily work under my wife's 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI, and also under my 2011 Audi S4, so aiming to buy some that is 8" in height should work well for you.

Thanks, good to know, don't want to raise the car more than needed - the main thing will be having enough clearance to get under the car the remove the engine undertray. I'm pretty small myself, so sounds like 8" lift should be fine.

 

[SuperV8]

That particular Powerbuilt one doesn't seem to get great reviews on Amazon (US) or in the comments of a YouTube video I found about it (

), however looks like there are other jacks available with a similar concept e.g. https://rennstand.com/

Am tempted to just get a decent set of ramps (maybe even some Race Ramps, they're pretty pricey, but I like that they're solid, not hollow, and the RR56 model provides 8" of height) and chocks, possibly using a regular trolley jack to lower the car onto the top of the ramps. Could even put some jack stands underneath the reinforced sill jacking points afterwards for an additional layer of safety, or at least leave the jack in place as well.

Blimy - they are expensive!
Don't waste your money - the Halfords ramps are same height - 200mm, they are very sturdy and only around 40 quid.

 

[PGTips]

Like most VAG cars, there are 4 strong points on the body, more inboard than the folded sill areas, each of these 4 points on the Polo/Ibiza/Fabia/A1 has a round nylon blanking cover - as opposed to black "rubber" covers/bungs, if your trolley jack has a compliant pad on top or built into the saddle, you can centre the trolley jack at each of these points to fit a jack stand or axle stand under the usual "emergency car jack" associated to that jacking sill/rail position.

I tend to always play safe so place a wedge/stop at the front of each front wheel and at the rear of each rear wheel to minimise the risk of it moving while jacking.

Plus, you can always go to the expensive of fitting Audi TT Mk1 "jacking point protectors" at each of these 4 holes in the body - and just place your trolley jack under them when jacking up - I did that to my wife's previous 2002 VW Polo and have done the same to her current 2015 VW Polo, these 4 areas are easily strong enough to be used on these small cars only, I'd not bother trying that on Golf/Leon/Octavia/A3 though.

As an "information only" comment, there is a version of trolley jack available that has a notch in the lifting parts so that you can locate axle stands and the trolley on the folded sill strong sections at the same time - but as usual only available, I think, in the USA. Similarly there is a more expensive option, that I felt the need to buy, that consists of, in my case, a set of 4 cast alloy "stools" that have a detachable top plate, you place the top plate on the trolley jack, just up the car, slip the stool in so that it is now under the top plate, then lower the trolley jack and you can remove the trolley jack, I find it smarter to use 2 trolley jacks and lift one side of my cars up at a time - that kit is called Jackpoint jack stands, again only sold in the USA but I joined a Porsche group buy so the shipping was very cheap as maybe as many as 10 or 12 pairs of jack stands were being ordered in at the same time - so we got discount on the jack stands as well, still quite expensive though, but I've used them on our Audi S4, SEAT Leon Cupra, SEAT Arona and VW Polo and they make doing brake work very easy as well as any other jobs that require the car to be lifted up off its wheels. I made up 4 long wide wooden ramps for when the work being done does not need the wheels to be off the ground.

Edit:- I've seen these comments/videos concerning lifting Golf GTIs "from the other end" but I've never got the feeling that a Polo/Ibiza would cooperate in that way, yes lifting the front will lift the back quite quickly, but not the other way round. My old S4 has "firm" suspension, but I'd never try that trick on it.

I always aim to just use the folded welded seam/sill/rail - at the jacking points, to locate the jack stand or axle stand adaptors and use the strong areas at these points to carry the weight of the cars - so far so good!

Regarding the 4 trolley jack lifting points that you mentioned i can see the 2 large plastic cover caps at the front but not 100% sure about the rear as the majority of the floor is covered in a plastic undertray but this chassis rail section near the pinch weld on the NSR as pictured is exposed where there's 2 capped holes which both measure 30mm in diameter, ,the one on the left is a clip in plastic cover & the one on the right is a rubber grommet so is plastic cap the one where you'd mount these jack mount protectors

 

[nd-photo.nl]

You are onto something....

Genuine VAG Jacking Point Replacemement/Upgrade Kit - MQB Platform

Complete Jacking Point Replacement/Upgrade Kit

www.akstuning.co.uk