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What about using the money to recon you engine and bearings etc… I only say because I had to fit a replacement lower engine from an Audio last year it’s like new car.. my car is on 125000 on the clock but I’m keeping as long as possible as I agree with all your comments. Whats out there to replace with ?
I'm looking at the Audi TT. Pick would be the 2L 230 but finding the ideal car seems tricky. Audi were very stingy with the standard kit, you'd be amazed by how many of these cars do not have cruise control!

I don't see the point in sinking money into my Leon. Cars get to a point where they start costing you money and it doesn't balance out. Any money you put into an older car is gone, you don't get it back. No one is paying more for a car with a replacement engine or new clutch. The trick is to get rid of cars before they get to that point.
 
Some of these modern VW Group engines, it seems, can't be rebuilt, checking through the parts cat for your engine will confirm if it can be rebuilt.
 
@SuperV8

So did a 71 mile round trip of mostly motorway on this sunny Saturday.
Managed to squeeze just over 40mpg - Cant say im impressed considering the type of journey...

Start of trip:

Coolant tempOil TempActual Coolant temp at radiatorSpecified Coolant Temp at radiator
13c13.5c13.8c`105c


End of trip:

Coolant tempOil TempActual Coolant temp at radiatorSpecified Coolant Temp at radiator
101c96.5c41.7c102.7c



Logs from this journey:

DpURJU2VbRVptMYwXQD042M4



Radiator temp peaked at 51c
View attachment 47772


Fan operation vs coolant temp
LK8NkgF9HRhsYmfOZoiqgX6F

I found it strange that your coolant temp keeps dropping down below 90 - maybe down to 86-87.

1744013423788.png


But then checking SSP555 about the 1.5evo and using google translate; it says this:

"Phase 04 Coolant temperature regulation to 85–105 °C
After the engine has warmed up, the coolant temperature regulation begins, depending on the operating mode.
This regulation is carried out exclusively via rotary flap 1. Rotary flap 2 is fully open and remains in this position. The coolant temperature is maintained at 105 °C at low load and speed, and is reduced to 85 °C at high load and speed.
Regulation is carried out steplessly according to programmed parameters"

1744014201449.png


So this is probably working as designed - though we don't know what they class as 'high speed'? - would have been interesting to add your speed/load on to this graph - to see if these coolant temp dips correlate to your increased speed/load?


Your coolant gets upto temp in around 6 minutes and oil in about 17 minutes - seems 'reasonable' to me but be nice if someone else with a 1.5 could comment if this seems reasonable?

I don't understand why your actual and specified temp at radiator are so different?

The fan can also come on with AC demand - so not sure this is anything to be concerned about - unless it was coming on at 70mph?
 
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Some of these modern VW Group engines, it seems, can't be rebuilt, checking through the parts cat for your engine will confirm if it can be rebuilt.
By rebuilt - do you mean cylinder over boreing? If yes that has been the case for many manufactures for years using spray on cylinder wall coatings.

I'm sure you can buy the required engine parts block/crank/pistons/head etc- but whether it makes financial sense is another mater.
Cam's for my TDI for example are available - but ONLY as a complete cam module - which includes all cams in a housing and would be very expansive.
 
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I was referring to the bottom end, assembled initially while the block is braced in a jig, loosen off bearing caps at your peril.
Just checked and I need to revise my comments :ROFLMAO: - you can't buy crank or block for the petrol engines! Only pistons and rods.
You can't buy the TDI blocks either - but you can buy the TDI cranks and bearings!
 
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Will track it later today.
When you say engine temp do you mean coolant temperatures or another sensor readings should be looking at

From memory when driving when I’ve last looked at coolant temps using obd I’ve seen it in the 90s go up to 110.

Just the radiator outlet temp always looks way out of wack in comparison and maybe why I’ve not heard the fans in a long time.

Funnily enough I had a mechanic out in January one of those mobile ones to see if they could shed any light on why fuels so poor.

It was a snowy day so outside temp was 2c. He plugged his diagnostic tool in and started the engine and within less than minute, coolant temps was showing at around 29c.

Which he said was suspicious and thought based on that one of the sensors could be giving false readings.

View attachment 47514

Would you agree with that being odd? I’d imagine the coolant temp would’ve been same as outside temp initially?
Have you fixed this issue, i also have very poor fuel economy in mine. Coolant seems to be up to temp just after a few minutes of driving and claims to be 90 degrees. I believe this may be a coolant temperature sensor issue or map sensor on the way out. I also have no cold start.
 
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Have you fixed this issue, i also have very poor fuel economy in mine. Coolant seems to be up to temp just after a few minutes of driving and claims to be 90 degrees. I believe this may be a coolant temperature sensor issue or map sensor on the way out. I also have no cold start.
unfortunately not mate

I’m at the point of seriously just getting rid of it.

can’t figure out why fuel is so bad. I have no fault codes or anything.

I’m over it, gonna give it one more stab but it’s becoming more of an annoyance.

Sick of being told averaging 25-30mpg even in summer on a long run is normal

Just don’t know what else I can do or check at this point?