Skahigh, thanks for coming back with an update. There are apparantly many people running around with Nime fan controllers and few reported issues, so you may just be unlucky. However it is a home-developed fix tested on a MkIV Golf, and he doesn't warrant it as far as I can tell.
M.r.davies, if the Nime box has side-effects on your electronics, your best bet is the resistor mod, replacing the resistors that have burned out in the fans with external resistors on a heatsink. Skahigh, you could look at this as well. It's basically replacing the failed resistors inside the fans with external components. Resistors are passive components. and you will just be fixing the broken bit rather than replacing the whole unit with a little broken bit fixed inside it.
The Nime box, looked at in isolation, is a more elegant solution, consumes less power (so doesn't get hot) and is tested and proven to work outside the car. Unfortunately when you put it in the car, next to all the other electronics, it has effects on everything surrounding it.
MkIV forum thread
Fan autopsy
Resistor replacement (Golf, but process is similar for all MkIV derived cars)
The Nime Box described here.
Efficient, but electrically noisy. I believe VW has adopted a pulse-width modulated controller in more recent cars, but they have the resources to engineer a complete solution and test that it works.
M.r.davies, if the Nime box has side-effects on your electronics, your best bet is the resistor mod, replacing the resistors that have burned out in the fans with external resistors on a heatsink. Skahigh, you could look at this as well. It's basically replacing the failed resistors inside the fans with external components. Resistors are passive components. and you will just be fixing the broken bit rather than replacing the whole unit with a little broken bit fixed inside it.
The Nime box, looked at in isolation, is a more elegant solution, consumes less power (so doesn't get hot) and is tested and proven to work outside the car. Unfortunately when you put it in the car, next to all the other electronics, it has effects on everything surrounding it.
MkIV forum thread
Fan autopsy
Resistor replacement (Golf, but process is similar for all MkIV derived cars)
The Nime Box described here.
Efficient, but electrically noisy. I believe VW has adopted a pulse-width modulated controller in more recent cars, but they have the resources to engineer a complete solution and test that it works.
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tamemin
Guest
Hi,
If anyone who has fitted one of our speed controllers, and is experiencing intermittent problems with ABS/TCS due to it's use, please feel free to return to unit to us for a full re-refund.
It appears that the electronics in some Seats Cupra's a bit more sensitive to the PCM operation of the Nime speed controller than that of the car is was developed (Golf). It's not clear from the forum which models are ok and which ones are affected. We would most appreciate it if you could drop us a line if you are a user, telling us how it has been performing.
Apologies for any inconvenience this may have caused.
<-- Update: We have since modified our units to avoid this problem -->
Regards
Tam
If anyone who has fitted one of our speed controllers, and is experiencing intermittent problems with ABS/TCS due to it's use, please feel free to return to unit to us for a full re-refund.
It appears that the electronics in some Seats Cupra's a bit more sensitive to the PCM operation of the Nime speed controller than that of the car is was developed (Golf). It's not clear from the forum which models are ok and which ones are affected. We would most appreciate it if you could drop us a line if you are a user, telling us how it has been performing.
Apologies for any inconvenience this may have caused.
<-- Update: We have since modified our units to avoid this problem -->
Regards
Tam
Last edited by a moderator:
Thats mighty decent of you.
I have this fault with my car aswell but still not confirmed that the nime box is the cause until I remove this that is.
My car is the same model as skahigh's one
2003 210 BHP Leon Cupra R
As above can you post address details and how you want these sent ie recorded delivery, insured post etc
I have this fault with my car aswell but still not confirmed that the nime box is the cause until I remove this that is.
My car is the same model as skahigh's one
2003 210 BHP Leon Cupra R
As above can you post address details and how you want these sent ie recorded delivery, insured post etc
Jon, are you aware of anyone that doesn't have the issue after the Nime fix?
I'm wondering whether i should fit mine, do the resistor mod, or just get a new one fitted???
I'm wondering whether i should fit mine, do the resistor mod, or just get a new one fitted???
I'm sure there are some people without any problems, I know that myself and junior senior have problems with the ABS and possibly gnollins as well.
I can't make the decision for you mate, all I can say is that my electrics seem to have gotten gradually more messed up the longer I had the nime box fitted and the air con on.
Fine since I took it off however.
I can't make the decision for you mate, all I can say is that my electrics seem to have gotten gradually more messed up the longer I had the nime box fitted and the air con on.
Fine since I took it off however.
tamemin
Guest
Another thing to check....
My ABS would trigger at low speeds whilst turning e.g. pulling into a parking bay.
Basically the ABS wire was being stretched when I was turning the wheel and the cable had a small break just behind the sensor (front NS sensor). Only when I used a lot of lock and the wire got stretched did the broken wire send false signals and the ABS cut in.
A mechanic rewired the plug which cost me 30 mins of his time
Maybe of some use
did it ever do this when not at slow speed, eg when going around a roundabout at sedate speeds as if the ESP is overly keen, yet not do it when you go either very very slow or a bit quick?
Mines a 225 04 plate, I got my hidden directly under the battery sat on the battery tray. Im going to run my vagcom on the car more often and see if its reporting errors but so far no light coming on my dash. If it is EM effecting other components then is there a way to better shield the device?
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Well.............
I removed my nime box today.
Before When I had it fitted I was getting a fault code for the two pressure sensors in the ABS system, but now I aint!!!!!!
Yeee feckin Haaa
But now I have a steering angle sensor that has mechanical failure, never mind as long as the ABS pressure sensors are happy so am I
I removed my nime box today.
Before When I had it fitted I was getting a fault code for the two pressure sensors in the ABS system, but now I aint!!!!!!
Yeee feckin Haaa
But now I have a steering angle sensor that has mechanical failure, never mind as long as the ABS pressure sensors are happy so am I
Still no reoccurance of this fault so will get a refund from Tamer until he gets the grey matter around this fault.
Aye bud, I'm not far behind you in costs just now, might have to buy a new gear box, feck!!
I think I'll just replace the fans too, how much and where did you get them from
I think I'll just replace the fans too, how much and where did you get them from
Error codes
Hi guys just wondering if you have had any more problems with this?
What happened to me was i turned on my lights to full beam and on the dash the hand brake light started to flash, abs light and traction control light came on and stayed on. Obviously did the initial thing and shat my pants! Stopped the car turned the engine off, and when i restarted it had gone, but then came back when turning the main beams back on.
Now not sure if it is related but i currently have HID lights on mains and dipped and they have been nothing but a pain, have gone though 4 ballasts so far under warranty (they have been installed for 2 months), earlier on in the day a ballast went on the main beam light and it is still the same.......not sure if it is related or if it is possible for it to be related.
So have been driving the last few days just on dips, last night tried again with the main beams (still one main beam out) and it was fine. Did a vag-com and came up with these...........
VAG-COM Version: Release 409.1-S
Chassis Type: 1M - Seat Leon
Scan: 01,02,03,08,15,17,19,22,35,46,56
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 01: Engine
Controller: 1ML 906 032
Component: 1.8l R4/5VT 0001
Coding: 10510
Shop #: WSC 79664
1 Fault Found:
18057 - Powertrain Data Bus: Missing Message from ABS Controller
P1649 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
Readiness: 0000 0000
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 03: ABS Brakes
Controller: 8N0 907 379 G
Component: ESP FRONT MK60 0101
Coding: 0019469
Shop #: WSC 00001
3 Faults Found:
00813 - Sensor 2 for Brake Pressure (G214)
012 - Electrical Fault in Circuit - Intermittent
00003 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs
014 - Please Register/Activate - Intermittent
01435 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs
012 - Please Register/Activate
i have read this post and checked all codes on "ross-tech wiki", the reason why i'm asking on here is that i see it was mentioned about the electromagnetic discharge with "NIME", just wondering if this could be possible with the HIDS?
I appreciate the time it has taken to read this and any input is appreciated.
Cheers
Andy
Hi guys just wondering if you have had any more problems with this?
What happened to me was i turned on my lights to full beam and on the dash the hand brake light started to flash, abs light and traction control light came on and stayed on. Obviously did the initial thing and shat my pants! Stopped the car turned the engine off, and when i restarted it had gone, but then came back when turning the main beams back on.
Now not sure if it is related but i currently have HID lights on mains and dipped and they have been nothing but a pain, have gone though 4 ballasts so far under warranty (they have been installed for 2 months), earlier on in the day a ballast went on the main beam light and it is still the same.......not sure if it is related or if it is possible for it to be related.
So have been driving the last few days just on dips, last night tried again with the main beams (still one main beam out) and it was fine. Did a vag-com and came up with these...........
VAG-COM Version: Release 409.1-S
Chassis Type: 1M - Seat Leon
Scan: 01,02,03,08,15,17,19,22,35,46,56
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 01: Engine
Controller: 1ML 906 032
Component: 1.8l R4/5VT 0001
Coding: 10510
Shop #: WSC 79664
1 Fault Found:
18057 - Powertrain Data Bus: Missing Message from ABS Controller
P1649 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
Readiness: 0000 0000
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 03: ABS Brakes
Controller: 8N0 907 379 G
Component: ESP FRONT MK60 0101
Coding: 0019469
Shop #: WSC 00001
3 Faults Found:
00813 - Sensor 2 for Brake Pressure (G214)
012 - Electrical Fault in Circuit - Intermittent
00003 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs
014 - Please Register/Activate - Intermittent
01435 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs
012 - Please Register/Activate
i have read this post and checked all codes on "ross-tech wiki", the reason why i'm asking on here is that i see it was mentioned about the electromagnetic discharge with "NIME", just wondering if this could be possible with the HIDS?
I appreciate the time it has taken to read this and any input is appreciated.
Cheers
Andy
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Well, the Nime box is a source of high-power square waves, whereas the HID's are driven by DC so the cause is unlikely to be the same. HID's take a high current to strike the arc, the ballast then reduces the current to the level needed to sustain the discharge. The turn-on spike is possibly what's affecting your car.
All I can suggest is to try rerouting the wires between ballast and bulb, keeping them clear of any other wires as far as possible. Make sure that the 12V power lines to the ballast are of thick wire, too. Keeping the ballasts close to the bulbs may help a bit.
All I can suggest is to try rerouting the wires between ballast and bulb, keeping them clear of any other wires as far as possible. Make sure that the 12V power lines to the ballast are of thick wire, too. Keeping the ballasts close to the bulbs may help a bit.
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