Thanks for the comment. First of all I would have never done it if I hadn't seen this thread. The only tricky thing I believe is to open the headlights. Everything else with patience can be done with no
problem.
I bought the things from
www.theretrofitsource.com. The package that I bought is their best.
Bi-xenon FX-R Stage IV Kit
Ballasts: Denso Slim (35W)
Bulbs: Philips D2S 85122+ 4300K
Projectors: LHD
Re-sealing Glue: Yes. (Buttyl Rubber Glue)
Shrouds: Ocular (I would recommend trying the iris ones, as ocular don't hide entirely the projector from the side but not 100% sure if they'll do the job too I guess you have to try)
Wire Harness: DON'T choose any of the options if you have a facelift Leon with can-bus. You must e-mail them first and tell them you want the
Morimoto standalone can-bus relay harness instead. They will send you a custom invoice. They have excellent customer support. If you don't take this harness you will have bulb out messages no matter what.
Cost for the parts from the retrofit source was 420$+shipping. I think it was 50$. So about 360 euros.
You also need to buy an external power supply to power the xenon-bulbs when you will be aligning the beam of the projectors. I recommend a 12V/10 A. About 40 euros if you don't have one.
Glue for the projector about 7 euro. (I can recommend you one if you decide to do it)
Clamps if you don't have any about 10-15 euros.
3M carbon vinnyl about 3-5 euros.
Vag com coding. Xenon with shutters option must be checked if you don't want flickering.
Projector shutter wiring.
If you like dual headlights you can just connect the projector wires to the halogen high beam. So when you FTP the halogen bulbs will flash and the projector shutter will move up (no
problem though as the xenon bulbs are off). When you turn your lights on, the low xenon beam will be on and when you move your stalk for your high beam the halogens will turn on and the projector shroud will move giving you dual headlights.
Now for someone that wants their headlights to work exactly as the OEM (I am one) you must buy a highline CECM as if you don't have a highline one the 2 pins required to trigger the shutters aren't there. That is if you don't want the high beam halogen to work with the high beam of the bi-xenon projectors. So now for me the high-beam halogen don't work at all. For FTP the CECM gives power to the low-beam (that means the xenon bulbs light up) and also moves the shutter up, so you have FTP. If you turn on the lights only the low beam turns on and if I move the stalk the shutter is moved giving the xenon high beam and a true bi-xenon projector.
Cost for the used CECM was 120 euros from ebay.de (New it's about 350-400 euros).
Total cost about 550 euros including the highline CECM.
The OEM headlights cost here in greece from the stealers about 450 euros each headlight with bulbs and ballasts, but I would also need the highline CECM. So the total cost would be about 1000 euros. So with half the price I have something with better components (the ballast and bulbs that I have are far much better than the OEM ones) and custom made by me which is priceless.
The
guide that I used is the following. Amazing guy.
(1)
How to build HID projector headlights
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=imIiglkq7HA
(2)
How to build HID projector headlights
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qExaAFgvquE
(3)
How to build HID projector headlights (This video is for educational purposes only as you won't be making shrouds)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mg_C_jtonZw
(4)
How to build HID projector headlights
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tQ1repIX_UU
I did some things differently though. I didn't use an oven to open them as they don't fit in mine!
So I used a heatgun (actually it's not that good to use an oven to open them). I was applying heat to an area of 4-6 inches and then with a wide flat tool I was prying off the lens and I was working my way around. Then with the same tool after taking off the lens I cleaned all the old glue.
I then removed the reflector. You need to drill a tiny hole on the back to gain access which is needed for one screw. Made a custom bracket (I used the back of a thin cd case). You need to make a bracket that it won't move no matter what and also align the lines of the reflector. I then marked the cut-off beam at a wall about 12 feet away. I then used a dremel to make the hole to the reflector for the projector to fit. Don't use silicone rubber sealant. I can propose of a different glue to use. Then place and glue the projector at the reflector and align the cut-off marks on the wall of the halogen bulbs with the projector cut-off. I skipped the part of creating a shroud as I had bought them. Skip video 3. Place the reflector back to the headlight. Put the shrouds and the carbon vinyl at the side. Place the buttyl rubber glue, don't stretch it too much. And then place the lens. Apply heat and use clamps. Also place buttyl rubber glue and create a protective seal as you can see on my headlight at my previous post.
DON'T USE SILICONE ANYWHERE ON THE HEADLIGHT.
Another hint is when you remove the healight from the car to mark with a marker the exact place that they are on the chassis in order to place them at the exact same place.
For anything else I will be happy to
help.