1.8t AUQ Lag

SlashProm

Active Member
May 23, 2018
160
22
Just looking for a bit of advice on my cupra, it seems to have lost a bit of power and takes a bit longer than usual to spool.

When I first got it it was hella aggressive and would pretty much spin going into third with a brisk gear change, Now it seems to be delayed when you put your foot down and seems to do this regardless of rpm or gear. Lets say I'm at 2000rpm in second, you mash the throttle and you can hear it spooling but nothing major happens until around 3k and at 4k it's like the boost is tapering off, whereas before it would pull like a train from 2k-4k and then hit the vvt and put a huge smile on my face.

The car came to me with a warped cylinder head caused by a cracked coolant flange. I got the head skimmed, replaced the DV and deleted the N249 and N112? next to it? silicone tip 3" decat downpipe. Here are the codes, note that I deleted my secondary 02 sensor so you can ignore some of the codes.


17526 - P1118
17524 - P1116
17748 - P1340
17522 - P1114
17511 - P1103

The two that concern me are P1340 which says I'm likely to be a tooth out on the timing belt after re-installing the head. Also P1103 Which is complaining about the performance of my primary 02 sensor. I have the free version of VCDS and managed to clear the codes going through the different options, so I can confirm these are current codes and p1340 is not an old code from when the oil ran low and would have lost a little pressure, which can also flag this code.

Car runs smooth at idle and pulls really well but I have been told it will do this with only being 1 tooth out. Any help would be much appreciated.
 

mty12345

Active Member
Jun 17, 2011
3,771
475
bristol
17524 and 17511 are both for the first lambda that controls the fuelling, that would probably account for the flat spots and lack of boost. I expect the ECU is pulling boost and timing to protect the engine because it's got no feedback on the mixture without the 1st lambda working....... Make sure you are careful with the wiring when changing it, as shorting together the high current heating circuit and low current sensor circuit, will fry your ECU when you switch the ignition on!

As for the camshaft code, then yes i would guess that the belt could be a tooth out, or more likely the chain that connects the inlet and exhaust cams together for the VVT.... I have heard it's fairly easy to do on these engines. Have you read the special notes section here? http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/17748/P1340/004928 It details the correct number of links for the chain.
 
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SlashProm

Active Member
May 23, 2018
160
22
I had the engineering place take the cams out and mark the chain so no worries there. I'm assuming it's when I have pulled the belt back over, I've either stretched it slightly or the crank has slipped when re assembling. New belt is on the way, hoping to get her stripped down and new belt on over the weekend. I will clean the lambda and check the wiring for any damage when it's jacked up. Hopefully I can just clean it and it's a bit dirty from the decat. Don't worry I have a brass brush.
 

SlashProm

Active Member
May 23, 2018
160
22
Thanks, I'll try and clean it first, if not I'll bite the bullet and buy a genuine one, I'm hoping it's just dirty because of the decat and just needs a good overnight soak in some petrol.
 

mty12345

Active Member
Jun 17, 2011
3,771
475
bristol
Thanks, I'll try and clean it first, if not I'll bite the bullet and buy a genuine one, I'm hoping it's just dirty because of the decat and just needs a good overnight soak in some petrol.

It's the first sensor, so it shouldn't make a difference as it's before where the cat would be if you had one anyway, but yeah worth a try cleaning it. I take it you have checked all fuses are ok too?
 

SlashProm

Active Member
May 23, 2018
160
22
Yeah I thought about the location before, remembered it was before the cat. It needs a good look at anyway, might have caught on the heat shield or anything. My priority is the timing atm just for piece of mind, I'll get it jacked up tomorrow and look at the marks. Out of curiosity what fuses should I be looking at regarding the 02 sensor, as the plum before I bought it left the speedo one out. Just in case althought I believe it's more sensor or wiring as it has been on and off.
 

SlashProm

Active Member
May 23, 2018
160
22
Got the car ready for a new belt today. I lined up the cam marks and the crank markings were off. After releasing the tension in the belt it basically allowed the marks to line up by gently moving the cam forward a tooth. I'm guessing the crank was pulled forward when I re tensioned the old belt back up. Atleast now I can see everything and do it properly with a new belt.

I also had a quick look at the 02 sensor and it has a slight bend in the body of the sensor from hitting the heat shield I guess. I've heard they can be bent though so not sure if this is the issue. I'll be checking fuses first any way.

Here is a picture of the crank relative to the cam when the cam was lining up with the top marks.
 

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SlashProm

Active Member
May 23, 2018
160
22
Just an update for everyone, new cam belt, aux belt and tensioner wheel, found out why my stop light flashes now and then, cut in the front right cable for the abs sensor, another dodgey tape job by the old owner. Also found a blown fuse, position 10, Petrol engine control unit, assuming this will be the 02 sensor fault. Next step is to get the sensor out and inspect wiring, as we all know, fuses mainly blow because of bad wiring :)
 

SlashProm

Active Member
May 23, 2018
160
22
Car is all back together. I cleaned the 02 sensor, checked the wiring and everything was fine, fuse 10 is holding up so no problems there, still getting the p1116 Open circuit to heater circuit on primary 02 sensor. Looks like the sensor is kaput. Probably the bend in it tbh lol. Going to order a new Bosch one on Thursday.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BOSCH-LAMBDA-SENSOR-0258007351-Next-working-day-to-UK-/111867032342

Hopefully I get my boner inducing acceleration back :L
 
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