I got mine from ebay for about 20 english pounds. I think I will adapt it a little, just out of curiousity what happens should it come off while driving?
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8bit's Mk1 Leon Cupra R. Scarlett - as in Johansson...
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It cost me the same to make mine, its almost identical to the Jabba. I've got the measurements if your interested.
If it comes off I'm guessing it'll register a fault as no air will be passing the MAF, your car will be sucking in unfiltered air (not what you want).
If it comes off I'm guessing it'll register a fault as no air will be passing the MAF, your car will be sucking in unfiltered air (not what you want).
well as long as I dont suck a baby in or anything. If I cant get on with the heatshield I have, I may take you up on that offer. I may try putting a inch Meklor clip on it.
As RDS said, you don't want your engine breathing in unfiltered air, this could mean scored piston crowns, compressor blades, all manner of bad stuff. You'd likely get fault codes and very lean running, as if things weren't bad enough already.
Ordered SFS upper boost hoses today, hopefully they're a much better fit than the Creations ones
Ordered SFS upper boost hoses today, hopefully they're a much better fit than the Creations ones
Going to try refitting the tip AGAIN as it came off AGAIN. But this time take the heat shield off. And possibly make a new one over the weekend. So frustrated!
Nightmare When you do it this time rotate it back towards the bulkhead as much as you can, still allowing just enough space to get the evap return and N75 in place, that may help the angle it approaches the heatshield.
I also found it handy to have my heatshield in place while attaching the TIP to the adaptor so you can line it up as well as possible with the shield. Makes reaching the bottom end of it a bit trickier but I've got long monkey arms which helps
Also, are you sure you had the jubilee gripping the hose correctly, i.e. so that it was almost right at the stop ring on the adaptor? If it's too far away from that then it'll only be partly gripping the silicone on to the metal of the adaptor.
I still haven't driven my car since last Thursday so can't say if mine's moved any or not since then, will be out and about the next couple of nights and will check after each drive of over a few miles.
When you do it this time rotate it back towards the bulkhead as much as you can, still allowing just enough space to get the evap return and N75 in place, that may help the angle it approaches the heatshield.I also found it handy to have my heatshield in place while attaching the TIP to the adaptor so you can line it up as well as possible with the shield. Makes reaching the bottom end of it a bit trickier but I've got long monkey arms which helps
Also, are you sure you had the jubilee gripping the hose correctly, i.e. so that it was almost right at the stop ring on the adaptor? If it's too far away from that then it'll only be partly gripping the silicone on to the metal of the adaptor.
I still haven't driven my car since last Thursday so can't say if mine's moved any or not since then, will be out and about the next couple of nights and will check after each drive of over a few miles.
Had another play tonight, have cut and reshaped the heat shield, the hole is now about 2 inches lower so it fits so much better. The tip has a very slight kink but fits on the billet better. I may move the jubilee to the end of the tip so it doesn't move at all. Also the filter sits lower.
How much have you taken off the top? Does the MAF sit flush against the heatshield?
If it does then this will be pushing back against the bottom bend, you should maybe consider taking a touch more off the MAF end to relieve the pressure on the bend a bit.
If it does then this will be pushing back against the bottom bend, you should maybe consider taking a touch more off the MAF end to relieve the pressure on the bend a bit.
I could take more off if need be. I have taken about 2 inches off now, not sure how much more I could take. The worst case, I cut too much off and it doesn’t reach. The MAF is not sitting flush with the heat shield there is a very small gap but might put a self-tapper through it to bring it up flush. I fitted the billet end first with no heat shield so it sat in its original position and then placed the heat shield next to it; there was a nice MAF sized gap between the two. If I am to take any more off it would only be at most 5-10 mm. will drive it around and see if it moves off the billet and let you know. However I am now pleased that it is now nearly sorted.
If the MAF didn't reach the shield then just push the silicone hose a bit further through the heatshield. You don't want the MAF pushed (or pulled) against the shield, that'll exert force on the silicone TIP.
Glad you're getting there though, looks like for non-B5 heatshields the fitting is a bit of a fine art
Glad you're getting there though, looks like for non-B5 heatshields the fitting is a bit of a fine art
No I managed to move them but they are a pig! It may be sorted but if it works it was loose again then I will revert to that. It really needs a lip or something on the billet.
I think if you can reduce the stresses placed on the bend by having to angle it heavily to reach the heatshield enough and get the jubilee on nice and straight and tight then it shouldn't really move. But yeah, a small lip, or even just not having a machined-smooth surface on the outer diameter of the adaptor would sort that out permanently.
I actually tried to get some grip tape like you put on the top of skateboard decks and put that round the side of the adaptor, to see if that would stop the TIP moving, but I couldn't find stuff thin enough to not prevent you getting the hose on the adaptor in the first place!
I actually tried to get some grip tape like you put on the top of skateboard decks and put that round the side of the adaptor, to see if that would stop the TIP moving, but I couldn't find stuff thin enough to not prevent you getting the hose on the adaptor in the first place!
OK, slightly lame update time. Did a wee job I'd been meaning to do for a while now, changed the pollen filter
Out with the old...
and in with the new:
Was shocked at the colour of the old one and the amount of debris in it! Not sure what the score is with the fixing screws for the cover though, the little lugs in the scuttle panel don't have any threaded parts for the screws to hold in to so I just had to push the clips that the screws sit in through. Anyone know if I'm missing a bit?
Also changed my 008 DV back to my 007p with a yellow spring in it, to see if that cured my fluttering on boost sound. It didn't, and I now have a small flat spot when on WOT, around 2800rpm, possibly the valve is getting pushed open. Back to the 008 and blue spring tomorrow.
Out with the old...
and in with the new:
Was shocked at the colour of the old one and the amount of debris in it! Not sure what the score is with the fixing screws for the cover though, the little lugs in the scuttle panel don't have any threaded parts for the screws to hold in to so I just had to push the clips that the screws sit in through. Anyone know if I'm missing a bit?
Also changed my 008 DV back to my 007p with a yellow spring in it, to see if that cured my fluttering on boost sound. It didn't, and I now have a small flat spot when on WOT, around 2800rpm, possibly the valve is getting pushed open. Back to the 008 and blue spring tomorrow.
So done a fair bit of reading lately on surge as I was concerned that this was causing the fluttering sound on WOT, from where peak boost hits (about 3500rpm) up to about 4500. Posted a thread in the mk1 section with a link to an article on VAGfans, here - http://www.vagfans.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=572
So from what that says, if it was actual, proper surge I'd know about it. Saw a thread on VWVortex also (thanks Craig!) in which a tuner says the following:
That made me think, I wonder if what I'm hearing is the N75 dumping air back into the TIP. The flutter is very rapid when it starts at 3500rpm and slows quickly then disappears about 4500. The N75 operates the wastegate by either boost pressure or vacuum. It uses vacuum from the TIP to hold the wastegate shut while the ECU is requesting more boost than the turbo is generating, then when the actual boost exceeds request it fluctuates between vacuum and boost very rapidly. This opens the wastegate, causing the turbo to slow down as exhaust gases bypass the turbo. As boost falls the fluctuations get slower.
This would seem to coincide with what I'm hearing betweek 3.5k and 4.5k. The noise of the flutter does sound a little bit like recirc/diverter valve noise, just very short and very quick. It's also louder since fitting the B5 TIP, just like the DV noises and stuff are.
This may not be correct but it all seems logical to me. Just thought I'd post this in case anyone who's had this is still wondering what is going on...
So from what that says, if it was actual, proper surge I'd know about it. Saw a thread on VWVortex also (thanks Craig!) in which a tuner says the following:
That made me think, I wonder if what I'm hearing is the N75 dumping air back into the TIP. The flutter is very rapid when it starts at 3500rpm and slows quickly then disappears about 4500. The N75 operates the wastegate by either boost pressure or vacuum. It uses vacuum from the TIP to hold the wastegate shut while the ECU is requesting more boost than the turbo is generating, then when the actual boost exceeds request it fluctuates between vacuum and boost very rapidly. This opens the wastegate, causing the turbo to slow down as exhaust gases bypass the turbo. As boost falls the fluctuations get slower.
This would seem to coincide with what I'm hearing betweek 3.5k and 4.5k. The noise of the flutter does sound a little bit like recirc/diverter valve noise, just very short and very quick. It's also louder since fitting the B5 TIP, just like the DV noises and stuff are.
This may not be correct but it all seems logical to me. Just thought I'd post this in case anyone who's had this is still wondering what is going on...
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