Mr Footlong

Guest
Hi guys

MRC are carrying out the stage 2 remap next week, have advised against the Forge 007/008 and are sticking with a new OE recirc valve. So far, I have the following parts ready for the job:

Milltek non resonated catback system
Milltek Downpipe & Sports Cat
Badger 5 Turbo Intake pipe
Badger 5 Heatshield and BMC Induction kit

I am pretty well tapped out for big purchases for the car this month but if there are there are other, cheaper things (ideally but if there are bigger things I would be stupid not to do a the same time please say!) I should be looking at getting done at the same time as he remap to maximize the gains I would really appreciate it thanks.

Nick :)
 
It's not essential but would be worth fitting a front mount intercooler. You prob won't see massive gains but it will keep the charge temps lower
 
They work on a lot of VAG 1.8T engines and they said that the need for servicing makes the Forge more hassle than is needed as they are adamant that a new OE valve will hold the necessary pressures. I did ask!

Regarding stages of mapping, in my experience at least over the years, a stage 1 map is carried out on a car with pretty well all OE equipment, perhaps a change in air filter or a uprated cat back system but the normal cat etc all staying in place. A stage 2 is when you have actively made aftermarket alterations to the breathing/exhaust system, larger injectors/fuel regulators etc etc. A front mount intercooler has never been stated as a must have item for a stage 2 remap I have had on any of my cars
 
I stand corrected :p

I could well be wrong, was just saying that is my take on mapping stages as I have been told/have done over the years.

Your RS6 is incredible btw :)

Thanks. the running costs, frequency at which things "fall off" and the ridiculous cost of the mods is a real killer but the performance is just staggering. Don't take offence to this but the reason I am modding the R is due to how badly she seems to run out of puff once 3 figures approaches, got used to pulling and pulling and pulling well up to the 200 mark..... Sadly they suffer from chocolate gearbox syndrome which is why my torque is way down due to being physically restricted by MRC but a few of us are cooking up so heavy duty box modifications to hopefully see her happily handle 800 ftlbs or so without bitching. The current 11.x mpg isn't anything to write home about either ;).

Worth running some decent fuel through it if you dont already.

Only Tesco 99 in this one, no Shell stations around so I stick to that. Had a few full tanks through now and will be filling up fresh the night before the remap.

Noted about the FMIC, have fitted them before so know about the benefits but just a step too far currently for the car. I was thinking more along the lines of any diverter valve bypasses etc valid for this engine or any supporting mods coming in at say onder £2-300 or so that I can ask the guys to stick in at the same time.

Thanks chaps :)
 
diaphram dv will be smoother, you dont need an fmic for stage 2 but its beneficial in the warmer months when the heat will rob you of bhp on repeated spirited driving.

sorry but thats just not right...............
stage 2 is for mods... End of.. stage 1 is for his mods..
 
I know I'd sooner run the forge DV.. I am and have no issued with it. Is the BMC enclosed? I hope not, the jetex is really highly regarded on here.
 
I was actually expecting to get the JR filter from Bill based on the Ebay ad picture at least but the BMC open cone appears to be as good from what has been said on these forums? Not talking about a BMC CDA, I have one sitting behind me boxed that I bought for my old XJR....

Just a thought, spark plugs. Would it not be a good idea go grab a set of PFR7Q plugs (my favourites) and get them stuck in at the same time. I know there will just be Seat OE ones in there from the last service.

Regarding the Forge, Doug (boss at MRC) said to me that they don't make any real difference over the OE one for mild to mid 1.8T remaps, OE onesdon't require servicing and when they go wrong, are cheap to replace. I was all for a 008 Forge but am going with his wishes on this.
 
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why all this scare mungering about replacing oem bosch dv , how many have actually seen one fail ? the early 1.8ts yes but pass 2002 there fine and on all my cars never fail even at stage 2 , i've had 7 leons now in cupra and r format and never once failed . tuners trying flogged stock imo
 
I have to say I don't worry about the the OE valves really. My main beast is running 2 OE Bosch valves that are near as damnit identical to the 1.8T ones I think, are stuck under a carbon engine shroud and cooked beyond belief every time that the car is used and they work perfectly. Not sure what boost pressures I am running but the heat factor alone (there is room for the engine in these bays and pretty well nothing else at all lol) makes me vouch for their reliability really as the heat levels/engine heatsoak temps are hilarious.

Anyway, had a search and think I am bang on the money with the PFR7Q plugs but just to confirm, any reason NOT to get a set of those? Thanks :)
 
Right, well MRC did their stuff yesterday. Fitted everything and did their remapping. Their rollers are well known in the Audi community for not being generous ones like an awful lot of them out there.

BEFORE - 214.42 hp / 209.4 ftlbs

AFTER - 271.53 hp / 313.5 ftlbs

She ate a coil pack during the mapping and they had to stick an old one on in order to finish but told me to get another asap. Madam brought the car home following me and was in tears at the end of the 2hr trip as it proved to be a bit much for her lol. I took the car out for a 10 min spin and found it to be fun and controllable if you knew what you were doing (so she will learn), sadly, check engine light came on during the 2nd half of my 'test' and looks/feels like I have eaten another coil pack. Didn't have my diagnostics on me and car is now at parents house due to going on holiday today so will run Vagisil when I get a chance and try to confirm that I popped another of the old coils or the emergency one.

Car is idling slightly lumpy but not making any nasty noises at all at idle and the check engine light only comes on flashing over a certain speed from memory. Engine is not too happy trying to move off from a standstill or at low moving at low revs but is driveable for emergency stuff between 2-3k rpm, as I had to drive it the last few miles home.
 
I've just seen this thread and was going to say coilpacks.

Another thing I found that failed shortly after my map was my N75 valve.
 
Thanks. Rushed off and got this from Vagisil:

Address 01: Engine Labels: 06A-906-032-BAM.lbl
Part No: 1ML 906 032 A
Component: 1.8l R4/5VT 0002
Coding: 10510
Shop #: WSC 66565
VCID: 3F8764943D669D1
SEZ7Z0C2183038

2 Faults Found:
16684 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
P0300 - 35-00 -
16687 - Cylinder 3
P0303 - 35-00 - Misfire Detected
Readiness: 0000 0001

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 03: ABS Brakes Labels: 8N0-907-379-MK60-F.lbl
Part No: 8N0 907 379 G
Component: ESP FRONT MK60 0101
Coding: 0019469
Shop #: WSC 00001 001 00001
VCID: 408567681098E29

3 Faults Found:
01314 - Engine Control Module
004 - No Signal/Communication - Intermittent
00287 - ABS Wheel Speed Sensor; Rear Right (G44)
003 - Mechanical Failure - Intermittent
00290 - ABS Wheel Speed Sensor; Rear Left (G46)
003 - Mechanical Failure - Intermittent

Not sure about the ABS ones but added them in for the hell of it. Looks like Coilpack at this point non? Hoping it isn't along the lines of this - http://www.seatcupra.net/forums/showthread.php?t=356122 :(

I am currently rush packing so if anyone could give me the part numbers for the exact 4 new coil packs and the N75 valve I would really appreciate it thanks!
 
Cheeky desperation bump before I get on the plane. Input gratefully received thanks guys :)