When new pads are needed i'll be looking at this for sure, not sure I can justify new pads when mine are only a few months old lol 2nd person to mention them pads
Brake dust from pads...
- Thread starter Jimbobcook
- Start date
@Tara
Are you using those EBC Red Stuff pads long enough to see that they are not eating the discs?
And the sound, are they silent?
Do the EBC pads have contacts?
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Have same problem with 201/67 Cupra 300 front wheels. Had car detailed 01/2018 used Gtechniq products + G5 on wheels. Only covered 5500 miles car garaged. Tried Bilt hamber didn`t remove contamination in corners of a a few spokes. Sent photo`s to Gtechniq, they suggested issue is pitting. Got free sample of C5 not tried it yet.
I had my Cupra alloy wheels ceramic coated with C5 on day 2 from new, and still have this issue.
In the end used some 3000 grit paper to remove contaminants, used different cutting compounds and these foam cones fitted to a low speed drill to remove swirls, prior to reapplying Carbon Collective Platinum Wheels:
However, still getting the same issue with OEM pads - it’s as though the dust particles burn themselves into the ceramic/clear coat.
Clean religiously every week too, but try to use the foam cones and light cut polish every month, followed by sealant to keep on top of them. The foam cones are also good for the exhaust tips too.
In the end used some 3000 grit paper to remove contaminants, used different cutting compounds and these foam cones fitted to a low speed drill to remove swirls, prior to reapplying Carbon Collective Platinum Wheels:
SPTA 7Pcs Sponge Polishing Cone Polishing Ball Polishing Wheel Car Beauty Waxing Car Polishing Pad Set for Polishing Buffer Waxing Buffing Pad Set Kit drill polisher : Amazon.co.uk: Automotive
SPTA 7Pcs Sponge Polishing Cone Polishing Ball Polishing Wheel Car Beauty Waxing Car Polishing Pad Set for Polishing Buffer Waxing Buffing Pad Set Kit drill polisher : Amazon.co.uk: Automotive
www.amazon.co.uk
However, still getting the same issue with OEM pads - it’s as though the dust particles burn themselves into the ceramic/clear coat.
Clean religiously every week too, but try to use the foam cones and light cut polish every month, followed by sealant to keep on top of them. The foam cones are also good for the exhaust tips too.
I have noticed this issue on my Cupra, having been a detailer for over 13 years it really bugs me.
My wheels were covered when I first picked the car up from new. Cleaning and Iron remover didn't get rid of it. In the end it tooks hours of using a clay bar and polishing.
What also annoys me is how easy the gloss black alloys scratch, I kinda expect the rest of the gloss black trim to mark easily but not on the alloys.
I was going to coat them with Gtechniq C5 but kinda given up on them now. Lol.
My wheels were covered when I first picked the car up from new. Cleaning and Iron remover didn't get rid of it. In the end it tooks hours of using a clay bar and polishing.
What also annoys me is how easy the gloss black alloys scratch, I kinda expect the rest of the gloss black trim to mark easily but not on the alloys.
I was going to coat them with Gtechniq C5 but kinda given up on them now. Lol.
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This doesn't fill me with much hope... I've noticed how easy these are to scratch which is also pretty shoddy lol
How often do you wash your wheels?
I would look at using bilt hamber auto wheels to remove the particles then start using bilt hamber auto mac at every wash.
I would also try a old school wax/ sealant, fk1000p has lasted well on my wheels, although not the same as yours.
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I would look at using bilt hamber auto wheels to remove the particles then start using bilt hamber auto mac at every wash.
I would also try a old school wax/ sealant, fk1000p has lasted well on my wheels, although not the same as yours.
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Maybe once every 3 weeks same as the car, I don't dedicate my life to cleaning but then again I don't drive much these days either lol
Yeah a few people have mentioned that so I may get some...
Every 3 weeks is less than me but i love a clean car
Defo try bilt hamber auto wheels to get rid of what is on there.
Bilt hamber auto mac should stop the discs rusting during your washing routine so should help with any unwanted transfer of particles to your wheels when you drive the car after.
You do need some kind of protection for your wheels though. It will help to stop the brake dust adhering to your rims.
Fk1000p worked well for me.
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Defo try bilt hamber auto wheels to get rid of what is on there.
Bilt hamber auto mac should stop the discs rusting during your washing routine so should help with any unwanted transfer of particles to your wheels when you drive the car after.
You do need some kind of protection for your wheels though. It will help to stop the brake dust adhering to your rims.
Fk1000p worked well for me.
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Yep, I've seen a couple of sub 1 year old Leon's for sale with scruffy callipers already, obviously been to a cheap car wash where they douse them in acid!
I've been using Bilt Hamber Auto Wheel myself but it does need agitating and pushing into the corners with a wheel brush. Doesn't just lift everything off with no contact unfortunately.
I used 'red stuff' pads on my kit car and really didn't like them. Found the friction level very low when cold - not a desirable characteristic in a 'road' car. Worked fine when you've got some heat into them so probably be fine for a track car - but not for a road car.
Modern over-assisted brake systems may well mask this issue - but you still want a good balance of friction of the foundation brake system - like just only putting sticky tyres on the front axle! is a bad idea. Having a higher friction pad at high temps and a low friction pad at low temps is not what you want in a brake pad you use on the road.
I'm not even sure they are actually legal - I know they 'say' they have ECE Reg 90 on 'most' of the red-stuff pads on their website but looking at photos of the pads they aren't marked correctly in accordance with the regulation with the correct R90 numbers which makes me doubt the validity of the certification if at all. I know no one will actually check this, but still, unless you are doing regular track days I would stick to good road pads.
Once you've got it off, protect with this https://www.gtechniq.co.uk/shop/auto/wheels-trim/c5-wheel-armour/ and then clean with this https://www.gtechniq.co.uk/shop/auto/wash-decon-polish/w6-iron-and-general-fallout-remover/ and you'll never look back - trust me 
That's intersting as I've found them perfect in every situation from cold to hot in the 6 months i used them and would but again , ive done a lot of track days in my time and admit I'd not tried them on track but road was way more than good enough.
I believe some people use WD40 as a tar remover, so if those brown spots are tar, then WD40 should OK to use it try and remove them. There’s a discussion thread over on Detailing World forum on using WD40 as a tar remove;
IMO it shouldn’t be necessary to leave it to soak for a few days though; if it’s tar then a few minutes should be long enough to soften the tar and it should then wipe off without too much effort with a soft microfibre cloth. If any stubborn spots remain, re-apply, leave and wipe off again.
No, no chance it is tar, it is brake pad dust, I've always used tar removal products for removing tar, I'm just like some others scraping the bottom of the barrel on how to remove these deposits without causing too much scratching or other damage to the unsuitable gloss black paint on these Cupra wheels.
Like I said - modern brake systems are usually over assisted which may mask any low friction issues when the pads are cold - i'm just saying this isn't ideal.
Have you fitted front and rear pads?
Interesting reading here -
you may note that its rare for the graphs for performance friction to show the friction levels below 100 degrees - this is because the friction level is low when performance friction is cold. The one which does is Hawk which you can see all but one very aggressive material have lower friction upto 100 degs the the OE.
It is often marketed as more is better in performance pads friction coefficient which again isn't true - what is important is consistent friction levels over varying conditions temperatures/pressures/speeds.
Quite often rear axle's have a low friction pad material (by design) to work with that particular brake/suspension system - so fitting a higher friction pad (at high temps) on the rear axle will upset the fundamental brake balance of the vehicle.
Brake dust is made up of both brake pad friction material particles AND brake disc particles - Brake discs for cars are all made of cast iron (except exotic carbon ceramic discs).
Most European cars (including All VAG group) use a low metallic friction material type which is black in colour - so I suggest the brown colour you are seeing isn't brake pad dust. I suggest it is brake disc dust which is iron particles, which will be very hot and embed them selves in the lacquer in your wheels.
this will be especially more prevalent with performance models which use a more aggressive brake pad friction material - which will wear the discs down quicker creating more iron dust.
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