Brake dust from pads...

Jimbobcook

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Morning all,

Not had my car long now (MK3 Leon Cupra ST Facelift) but i'm noticing a build up of what looks like bedded in brake dust (orange ish) in the corners of my alloys which doesn't want to come of with my standard wash using ph neutral wheel cleaners (Autobrite and Autoglym), I've sprayed on and agitated the area but it doesn't want to shift...

Not sure if I got unlucky with these pads but it's happening both front wheels and I'd very much like clean wheels without using steel wool haha

Anyone else had this and got it sorted?

I'd get you a picture but you cannot see it currently under the dirt haha

Cheers
 

xyz

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Morning all,

Not had my car long now (MK3 Leon Cupra ST Facelift) but i'm noticing a build up of what looks like bedded in brake dust (orange ish) in the corners of my alloys which doesn't want to come of with my standard wash using ph neutral wheel cleaners (Autobrite and Autoglym), I've sprayed on and agitated the area but it doesn't want to shift...

Not sure if I got unlucky with these pads but it's happening both front wheels and I'd very much like clean wheels without using steel wool haha

Anyone else had this and got it sorted?

I'd get you a picture but you cannot see it currently under the dirt haha

Cheers

You need a stronger cleaner. Go to the Cleanyourcar website and get an iron fallout remover. Something like Dragonbreath should sort this out no problem. It’s a great cleaner but by Christ it stinks!



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Jimbobcook

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I've used fallout stuff as well as that's part of the decontamination thing I do lol I was told the worse the smell the better the cleaner... I dry heave with mine so I think it's pretty good haha
 
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SRGTD

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I’d guess it’s iron fallout contamination which has become embedded in the surface of the wheel and a normal consequence of braking. It‘s more noticeable on some colour wheels than others (black being the worst).

As @xyz has said, an iron fallout remover should work. I’ve used both Valet Pro Dragon’s Breath and Car Pro Iron-x and yes, they both stink to high heaven!
 
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Jimbobcook

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I’d guess it’s iron fallout contamination which has become embedded in the surface of the wheel and a normal consequence of braking. It‘s more noticeable on some colour wheels than others (black being the worst).

As @xyz has said, an iron fallout remover should work. I’ve used both Valet Pro Dragon’s Breath and Car Pro Iron-x and yes, they both stink to high heaven!
I've currently used the following Iron Fallout removers

Autobrite Purple Rain
Autoglym Magma
and my current one is Gyeon Iron

All sprayed on and left to work then agitated and rinsed, then wheel cleaner afterwards...

I must be doing something wrong haha
 
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SRGTD

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Does it feel rough to the touch? If so, then that would tend to confirm it is embedded contaminants.

You could try using a clay bay, although depending on how intricate the design of your wheels is, it could take quite a while. If you do use a clay bar, then I’d suggest using a fine grade one (the least aggressive grade), and plenty of lubrication to prevent the clay bar grabbing or dragging on the wheel’s surface. You can use a car shampoo and water solution as lubrication with some - but not all - clay bars. Alternatively, you can use a quick detailer.

Whatever method you find is successful for to remove the contaminants, I’d recommend either applying a coating such as Gtechniq C5, or a couple of coats of good quality wax/sealant which should help prevent future contaminant build up if the wheels are cleaned every couple of weeks or so.
 

Woody_72

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Autoglym's bog standard wheel cleaner spray is basically just hydrochloric acid with a bit of foaming agent mixed in. That should shift embedded contaminants.
 
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Jimbobcook

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Does it feel rough to the touch? If so, then that would tend to confirm it is embedded contaminants.

You could try using a clay bay, although depending on how intricate the design of your wheels is, it could take quite a while. If you do use a clay bar, then I’d suggest using a fine grade one (the least aggressive grade), and plenty of lubrication to prevent the clay bar grabbing or dragging on the wheel’s surface. You can use a car shampoo and water solution as lubrication with some - but not all - clay bars. Alternatively, you can use a quick detailer.

Whatever method you find is successful for to remove the contaminants, I’d recommend either applying a coating such as Gtechniq C5, or a couple of coats of good quality wax/sealant which should help prevent future contaminant build up if the wheels are cleaned every couple of weeks or so.
Yeah it's definitely raised like a little blob, but it's more specs that just go together if that makes sense lol

I have a clay bar that I could try but with the Cupra wheels i'm not sure how close I can get into the corners...

Autoglym's bog standard wheel cleaner spray is basically just hydrochloric acid with a bit of foaming agent mixed in. That should shift embedded contaminants.
Haha I was wondering about getting an acid based cleaner to get rid the once and coat it after that but I don't like the idea of making things worse lol

I do have Autobrite wax off, Gyeon Prep and Gyeon Tar which i've not tried yet which may yeld some results...
 

RUM4MO

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If you have the usual alloys with the black gloss paint on them, I'd think that it is the paint is the problem as I feel that it is far to soft, if it scratches very easily then these particles have penetrated the top surface - I tried cleaning my daughter's Cupra wheels after she changed over Winter wheels+tyres when her car was only 3 months old and very few miles on it and it had been washed every other week - I gave up after using normal wheel cleaners on them after about 6 attempts, I did not want to revert to using "proper" wheel cleaners, that job I'll leave for her boyfriend if she ever feels the need to get these wheels back on the car next Spring!! On any of my alloys, if I've found stubborn spots of stuff left behind, I've just used lots of warm soapy water and a thumb nail - but that was on "properly finished" ie silver alloys with a string top lacquer. Fashion demanding shiny black paint and diamond finish on alloys has a lot to do with these issues.
 

Jimbobcook

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If you have the usual alloys with the black gloss paint on them, I'd think that it is the paint is the problem as I feel that it is far to soft, if it scratches very easily then these particles have penetrated the top surface - I tried cleaning my daughter's Cupra wheels after she changed over Winter wheels+tyres when her car was only 3 months old and very few miles on it and it had been washed every other week - I gave up after using normal wheel cleaners on them after about 6 attempts, I did not want to revert to using "proper" wheel cleaners, that job I'll leave for her boyfriend if she ever feels the need to get these wheels back on the car next Spring!! On any of my alloys, if I've found stubborn spots of stuff left behind, I've just used lots of warm soapy water and a thumb nail - but that was on "properly finished" ie silver alloys with a string top lacquer. Fashion demanding shiny black paint and diamond finish on alloys has a lot to do with these issues.
I do indeed have the fancy pancy black gloss that scratches easy lol My idea was to sort it out the once and then double coat them in a good sealant to stop this happening... I just didn't want to ruin the alloys trying to get everything off... These wheels are only months old and only been cleaned by me and with care everytime.
 

SRGTD

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Autoglym's bog standard wheel cleaner spray is basically just hydrochloric acid with a bit of foaming agent mixed in. That should shift embedded contaminants.
@Jimbobcook; if your wheels are diamond cut, I wouldn’t use an acid based cleaner as it could damage the lacquer / clear coat and cause discolouration or corrosion to the diamond cut surface.
 

Jimbobcook

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@Jimbobcook; if your wheels are diamond cut, I wouldn’t use an acid based cleaner as it could damage the lacquer / clear coat and cause discolouration or corrosion to the diamond cut surface.
Yeah I thought as much, at least I've found that it's not just me that has the issue lol I have an issue because my drive is on a slope I cannto take the wheels off to get them done properly without taking them to a detailer to sort which is something I could do myself given time
 

SRGTD

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I do have Autobrite wax off, Gyeon Prep and Gyeon Tar which i've not tried yet which may yeld some results...

It’d certainly be worth trying a tar remover. The raised blobs you’ve described could be tar coated in brake dust (hence the orange-ish colour). If they are, then a good tar removal product should soon sort them out.
 
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Jimbobcook

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It’d certainly be worth trying a tar remover. The raised blobs you’ve described could be tar coated in brake dust (hence the orange-ish colour). If they are, then a good tar removal product should soon sort them out.
Thanks, i'll give that a go on the next wash
 

Legojon

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Yeah, I get the same. Loads of brake dust looks like it's baked onto the wheels. It's done it with all pads I've used. I can't find anything to shift it either... and am stuck using harsher stuff cause my wheels are painted.
 
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RUM4MO

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I've finally started using wheel sealer on all my cars wheels, my wife's August 2015 VW Polo SEL alloys are still looking as good as new, so when changing to winter wheels+tyres, and with "doing/going" places has been much reduced, I bought Poorboys World Wheel Sealer and sealed these summer after cleaning them prior to storing them over the winter period, also applied it to her winter alloys before fitting them, and my winter alloys - maybe better late than never, time will tell - though I'd think that brake dust particles will penetrate these sealers - normal brake dust should hose off a bit easier though.
 
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Jimbobcook

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I think I may do a wheel at a time to make sure I don't need to rush lol it will look weird but after a week they will all be good or better hopefully haha
 

2Stevo2

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By far the best PH Neutral wheel cleaner on the market is Bilt Hamber Auto Wheel. It out performs all its rivals in all tests set out by car magazines, detailing companies etc. I have the exact same alloys and find this works perfectly.

However, a big no no in the detailing world is going weeks on end without washing/ decontaminating your car. :yelcard:.

Without even knowing, I highly suspect this has been a contributing factor.

I would be aghast if you tried Bilt Hamber Auto Wheel and it didn't work. The ones you tried are not in the same league.
 

Jimbobcook

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By far the best PH Neutral wheel cleaner on the market is Bilt Hamber Auto Wheel. It out performs all its rivals in all tests set out by car magazines, detailing companies etc. I have the exact same alloys and find this works perfectly.

However, a big no no in the detailing world is going weeks on end without washing/ decontaminating your car. :yelcard:.

Without even knowing, I highly suspect this has been a contributing factor.
I've not had the car very long at all, another detailing no no is doing it in the wrong conditions lol With Gyeon Cancoat it suggests to not get wet for 24 hours till cured and don't put it on in the sun/warm car as with most stuff I think. I'd rather wait and do it properly than half arse it which causes me more issues later in life haha, the more I touch the car the more marks i'll get that pretty much a given no matter how good you are (without being professional standard).

I shall have a look see at the Bilt Hamber and see how it performs cheers :)
 
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