broken door switch?

[Ol' Timer]

From that video is it just a case of buying a new microswitch and taking the top part off and putting it on your original switch?

Looks that way. The only bit I don't understand is that I think the switch is held on by a couple of pegs which have the ends melted to hold it in place. If you cut off the melted ends to remove it I don't know the best way to refit it and hold it in place again. I suppose strong glue might work?

 

[747_727]

It depends if there is a hole on the microswitch then you could pop rivet it back on.

 

[Ol' Timer]

I have ordered a couple of the microswitches from the German seller. They were easy enough to buy and the bill for the two was £11.26 including postage. Hopefully they will arrive all right and I will report back when I get round to repairing the lock. I need the weather to get a bit better before I attempt it.

 

[747_727]

It wil be interesting to know how you get on. Ive got a second hand switch so it ifs easy I will put a new microswitch on it before i fit it.

 

[Ol' Timer]

As a follow up to my experiences with the German micro switch. It arrived safely and was a good quality Cherry unit. I was hoping that I would be able to remove the top and transfer it to the faulty switch. Unfortunately, I couldn't see any way of dismantling the new switch without destroying it. The instructions accompanying it are in German and show the new switch being soldered to the wiring and glued in place. I didn't fancy doing this so I decided to cut my losses and order a new door lock from Sere Motors. It arrived today and I fitted it this afternoon. It seems to have done the trick.

Other people might have more success than me adapting the micro switch to fit but I didn't fancy fiddling about with it while the door was in pieces and the car was undriveable.

 

[747_727]

thanks for letting us know mate. I looked at my second hand catch i bought and couldnt see an easy way of getting it apart. Think i will just stick it on and see if its works if not i will have to get a new one sadly.

 

[Edward9th]

I suggest you follow the same links as Marler (above), as you both seem to have the same problem.

 

[747_727]

Does anyone know what colour wires go on to what 2 of the 3 pins in these replacement micro switches?


Also Pm for you ol' timer.

 

[Edward9th]

The original driver's door switch used pins 1 (brown) and 3 (brown/violet). I don't know about your replacement switches, but the pins should be labelled 'common' and 'NO'. (according to my information - I haven't actually done this operation - yet!)

 

[747_727]

It's this switch I'm thinking of buying http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/290601759977?redirect=mobile

 

[Edward9th]

Looks pretty standard, so the pins are probably labelled 'NO', 'Com(mon)' and 'NC'. From what I'v seen, you need to connect to the 'com' and 'NO' (normally open). It doesn't matter which wire goes to which.
I can't help wondering though - if the switch isn't working, how does the alarm know it should sound? Perhaps I've missed something, and someone else can answer this.

 

[747_727]

Looks pretty standard, so the pins are probably labelled 'NO', 'Com(mon)' and 'NC'. From what I'v seen, you need to connect to the 'com' and 'NO' (normally open). It doesn't matter which wire goes to which.
I can't help wondering though - if the switch isn't working, how does the alarm know it should sound? Perhaps I've missed something, and someone else can answer this.

Thats a great help thanks.
On my car the switch doesn't work so the car doesn't know the door is open and that sets the alarm off if you leave it open without turning the ignition on.

 

[MR T]

Just to revive this for a minute. On the microswitch once you have opened it up shoud the plastic plunger be touching a firm copper piece that has little flex or should it go onto the softer springy bit? I have stripped mine down but it doesn't seem to plunge anymore