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s10mph

VAG car nut
Mar 1, 2008
243
0
Thundersley
I'm the one who just bought me child a 1.0 Arosa.
I've stripped down some bits under the bonnet to reveal the cambelt and found that the existing belt is 2 teeth out of alignment with the timing marks.
Now I know why it was so slow, I'm surprised the previous owner never noticed how slow the car was. Bernie.
 
Ouch !!! thats awful but, at least you have found out what the problem is. They are pretty easy to do yourself if you have competent mechanical knowledge. Hows the car otherwise ?
 
Bought the new belts today so will start fitting them tonight Some previously suggested I change the waterpump whilst I do the cambelt but the waterpump is not under the cambelt cover, must be the TDI's only. The rest of the car is almost perfect, no body damage, dents or scratches. The car came with complete service history, old mot's all the handbooks original bill of sale and a heap off bills. I know I paid over the odds for it but a few easy jobs to do and it will be perfect.
 
As far as I am aware the waterpump is run by the cambelt, which is why its often changed at the same time while you have the belts and covers and such like off :)
 
There is no water pipes anywhere near the cam belt end of the engine and looking at the workshop manual it shows the w.pump somewhere under the distributor. Are you sure petrol engines have the same layout as the diesel's w. pump wise.
Will try flushing oil and oil change to stop the sticking valve soon.
 
It could be different - I thought on my (1.0 petrol) engine, the water pump is tucked in by the left hand side of the engine, but I've never really looked so I could be completely wrong! :happy:
 
i concede, the water pump is driven by the cambelt but it's all back together again so \i'm not taking it all apart again, trying to fix the door checkstrap now but I think it's broken inside the A post and there is no way off getting to it, unless you know different of course. Bernie.
 
I'm afraid I got the garage to do mine! But looking at my car, you'll probably need to remove the lower dash and possibly some other bits to reach up and get the check strap inside the car.....
 
Taken out the lower dash, wheelarch liner, footwell trim around the bonnet release and no access found for the checkstrap mounting bracket. Can only be behind the the main dash now.
Was yours the strap in the door or the bracket in the A post that was changed/repaired?
 
I've had both check straps and door hinges changed - also my dad has made new bearings for the drivers side, it doesn't half go through them!

Pretty sure it was only the check strap that needed doing.
 
The check strap and hingesare the easy bits to do, they are fitted via the door trim panel. Think I'll give up on this now, she will have to put up a clunk when you open the door.
What bearings are you talking about?
 
There's a little hinge/bearing thing in the middle of the check strap - I was all ready to replace it, but my dad is a very practical person so he turned a little metal cylinder with a hole down the middle to replace it which cured the clunk for free!

Need to do it again some time soon....