Car hunt on idle, dash lights flickering, hissing (vag log)....problems

Gazaho

Active Member
Nov 27, 2016
41
0
So as per title...

Since day one I have had these problems,
Car hunting slightly on idle, previously found split vacuum pipe now replaced and replaces pcv breather pipes. Still hunts slightly.

When its hunting the dash lights also flickering like...when you watch your dash and press the button for the windows?

When I hit boost I hear like a whistling sound like when you blow on those toys from Christmas crackers?? Like a kazoo? Also what is my boost gauge supposed to display? I normally displays 1bar, goes down to 0.4 and fluctuates between both...someone suggested boost leak but judging the figures below it shows not?:lol:

Below is the log I created earlier on my mates equipment...not sure if I have done it right, someone please point me in the right direction.
Started log on those 3 blocks, drove, third gear 3000rpm and red lined it.

Maf at idle shows 10g/s at 3000rpm

N249, N112 Bypass, SAI Delete.

Thanks all.


 

Stuart09

Active Member
Dec 24, 2016
145
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I would get the car smoke tested to see what it going on. Do you have the standard bov they are prone to going.

mk1 Leon cupra 1.8T 20v.
 

Gazaho

Active Member
Nov 27, 2016
41
0
I guess that's the only option, nope replaced mine with my friends one
 

mty12345

Active Member
Jun 17, 2011
4,133
693
bristol
It's hard to tell from that log mate. Thats the right groups but maybe do a couple more runs and log from lower down the rpm say 2000rpm.

From the limited data it looks like boost is spiking up and the car is pulling the timing as it happens but hard to say.
 

Gazaho

Active Member
Nov 27, 2016
41
0
Thanks Matty, so I'd be driving from point A to B, 2000rpm in third and redline it? And then from point B to A same again maybe?
 

mty12345

Active Member
Jun 17, 2011
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bristol
Yeah that should be perfect. That way there's that bit longer to see how the turbo responds and what the car does with the timing.
 

Gazaho

Active Member
Nov 27, 2016
41
0
Right guys, so... today I went to my friends garage...
managed to find a leak from a split pipe from the inlet to brake servo pipe? done a temp repair on that.

Got a price of like £30 plus VAT from Stealers...if anyone has the part number, It'd be much appreciated.

With the Turbo problem....fluctuating between 0.4bar and 1bar, my friend said to remove the pipe off the dump valve and block it with a bolt, went for a drive and it seems to hold boost. What does this mean? I done the bypass wrong or something?

Then later on this evening I went for a drive and logged the car with Vag com again on 3 seperate runs, hopefully I have done it right...





 
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mty12345

Active Member
Jun 17, 2011
4,133
693
bristol
Right mate, first of all i'm no expert, but a couple of things stand out to me.

The 1st thing is that there's no sign of it dumping and then boosting in your logs, boost seems to hold ok. The only thing that looks wrong boost wise is that when you are lifting off the throttle it seems to be taking ages to open the recirc valve. Maybe this is normal after the N249 bypass?, i've still got mine so i'm not sure.

Second thing is it looks to be pulling the timing quite a bit for fairly low boost. What fuel are you running it on?

As for the split in the vacuum hose to the servo, that would probably cause a rough idle so i'd replace that first and see what happens idle wise.
 
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Gazaho

Active Member
Nov 27, 2016
41
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Thanks for the input guys, its much appreciated.
I must sound so silly, so basically im suppose to go from third gear at 2000rpm, and then just redline it, or actually go through to 4th 5th and 6th gear and redline it? Lol

Also I'm iust running at standard Saintsbury fuel at the mo
 
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mty12345

Active Member
Jun 17, 2011
4,133
693
bristol
No just the one gear is fine mate. 3rd is just used the most because the engine accelerates through 1st and 2nd too quickly and the redline in 4th, 5th and 6th would lose you your license,lol.

Did you see my comment on the timing pull? It seems a lot for a low boost. Are you running it on vpower or normal unleaded?
 
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mty12345

Active Member
Jun 17, 2011
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693
bristol
Also I'm iust running at standard Saintsbury fuel at the mo

It can be run on standard fuel, but that's really only for pottering about in town if 'proper' fuel isn't available. Standard unleaded will knock at full boost and cause the ecu to pull timing or even drop boost.

It need's a minimum of 98 octane to run as a performance car, and there's only 2 fuels in the uk that meet that spec ....shell vpower and tesco 99 (which is hard to find)

Fill her with vpower next time and run some more logs. You should see a load of 0's in the last 4 columns of your logs rather than the 1.5's and 2's that you have at the moment.
 
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Gazaho

Active Member
Nov 27, 2016
41
0
Right i see, i'll go fill up at tesco when i next need fuel.

as for the boost part my mechanic told me to bung up the pipe that went to the top of the DV to see how it runs, now it holds boost a lot better and doesnt flicker like previous, should i keep it like this or run a few logs with it connected back on the DV? Im guessing without it connected it causes it not to dump, right?

Thanks
 

mty12345

Active Member
Jun 17, 2011
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693
bristol
Ah right, yeah that would explain why it looked like it was taking too long too dump in the logs,lol.

Yeah run some more logs with it connected up how it should be.

Are you sure that you've done the N249 properly and not mixed up a pipe or something? If having the pipe connected to the DV causes it to dump boost when it shouldn't, then that would suggest that for some reason there is vacuum present in that pipe when it shouldn't be.....
 

Gazaho

Active Member
Nov 27, 2016
41
0
Aha I'll prob run a few logs Sunday night after I fill up at tesco and connect that back up.

I'm certain I done the bypass properly.

Just to confirm under the inlet nearer to the middle there's a larger nipple that connects to the oil breather system, then to the right there's 2 smaller nipples 1 connects to the FPR and the other connects to the top of the DV which I have T'd off to connect the Boost gauge to, then the n112 and n249 electrical cables have resistors soldered on?

Also does my maf seem okay from the logs? I did clean it recently with contact cleaner, but I also have a spare in the boot but no point changing if the figures seem okay.

Thanks