Changing rear brake pads...

[petay_pan]

Pads due a change soon as I found out to day and wondered what the trick was with this is as a mate of mine was saying you need to screw the piston back into the cylinder with some kinda special tool instead of the traditional 'just push it back in'. to complicate things further you need to undo the bleed nipple a bit and attach bleeding kit so when you push piston back in dirt doesn't interupt the ABS solenoid valves???

anyone be of any help on how to go about changing rear pads on the Leon Cupra? Managed to do the front no problem at all but these rears sound a bit OTT.

 

[cordobabrendy]

rear does need a wind back tool (£20 from halfords) and is a bit of a pig to get wound back, also make sure you bleed the right valve as there is two, ones a non return type and the other just bleeds them, soft brakes ahoy if you bleed the wrong one.

 

[neil_f225]

i changed the rear pads on my lcr. You will need a piston wind back tool but i never had to bleed anyhthing and the brakes work fine

 

[dsrr]

Yes you ned the wind back tool, as for bleeding anything, second time I have changed the rear pads and never had to bleed, nor heard of anyone doing so!! any one else done this??

 

[cordobabrendy]

Yes you ned the wind back tool, as for bleeding anything, second time I have changed the rear pads and never had to bleed, nor heard of anyone doing so!! any one else done this??

not obligitory but handy if you have problems winding back, and also if they were a little soft beforehand.

 

[petay_pan]

cool, only thing that put me off was this bleeding malarky as I know how horribly wrong that can go and cause all sorts of probs.

will have to pop down the local motor place and pick up the special twisting tool.

is there an reason for you having to twist it back in? fronts were nice and simple just push it.

 

[Muttley]

petay_pan wrote
cool, only thing that put me off was this bleeding malarky as I know how horribly wrong that can go and cause all sorts of probs.

will have to pop down the local motor place and pick up the special twisting tool.

is there an reason for you having to twist it back in? fronts were nice and simple just push it.

The handbrake actuating lever on the caliper is mechanically connected to the piston by a threaded rod up the middle. The piston self-adjusts by unscrewing along this rod every time the brake pedal is pressed, so that as the pads wear the handbrake lever movement stays the same. So to retract the pistons, they must be screwed back down the rods.

You need to be ready to bleed off some brake fluid because the brake fluid displaced by pushing the pistons back in has to go somewhere, and if you do nothing it's likely to blow the top off the reservoir in the engine compartment.

 

[petay_pan]

well, I thought it might still happen the same as it does the fronts...I unscrew the reservoir cap and lift it up abit and then just pushed the piston back in which in my mind just pushes that excess fluid back up the system into the reservoir again.

Do the backs not work in the same way or is there some technical solenoids in the way for the ABS that the fronts don't suffer from?

such a simple job usually lol.

 

[Muttley]

If your fluid level is at the max mark before you start, then enough is displaced to spill over, especially when doing the front pads (bigger pistons). This is messy, and since you are working on the caliper anyway, one quick way out is to loosen the bleed screw and fit one of those autobleed accessories with a one-way valve. Then nothing gets pushed back "the wrong way" and you don't have to keep getting up to look into the engine bay.

Having said that, I usually leave the bleed screws alone and take some fluid out of the reservoir

The big difference with the rear calipers is the handbrake mechanism, which has to be separate from the footbrake (Construction and Use regulations), hence the intrusion of nasty prone-to-jamming mechanical bits into the nice clean hydraulic circuit .

 

[petay_pan]

hmmm i see your point. I'll give it ago without touching any nipples :shock: the same as i did my old car with rear calipers. (focus).

 

[F2 Stu]

Be extra careful with the flexi lines. their uber delicate.

 

[petay_pan]

In what way? I would swap for braided, it's just bit of an ordeal to fit them.

 

[aphix]

just cable tie the caliper to the suspension and dont let the caliper hang on the hose while you change the pads.

Rob

 

[bentaw]

isnt there a torque setting for the rear hubs or is it different i know on my mates gt4 he needed a torque setting is this the same for the lcr and if so what is it, also i have brought some new discs and have been told i need some inner rear hub seals to keep the grease in is this true or not.

PS sorry for hi jacking thread but it is similar

 

[Wermy]

rear does need a wind back tool (£20 from halfords) and is a bit of a pig to get wound back, also make sure you bleed the right valve as there is two, ones a non return type and the other just bleeds them, soft brakes ahoy if you bleed the wrong one.

are you sure the one from halfords works?

i hate cars

 

[cordobabrendy]

yup deffo, thats where i got mine, theres two fitments and to be honest i couldnt get the clamp plate in to leave me a spare hand so i just leaned against the piston and wound it back with the tool.

 

[Wermy]

yup deffo, thats where i got mine, theres two fitments and to be honest i couldnt get the clamp plate in to leave me a spare hand so i just leaned against the piston and wound it back with the tool.

thanks just got one, just ddint say on the packet it was the right fitment.

takes 20mins perside for fitting rear pads.

 

[dutton]

Seat Leon rear brake pads

Which direction do you need to turn the piston to push it back?
Can you do it without a tool?

 

[Muttley]

dutton wrote

Which direction do you need to turn the piston to push it back?
Can you do it without a tool?

You rotate the piston clockwise to wind it back down the mechanical handbrake rod.

You can do it without a windback tool - a large pair of circlip pliers or needle-nose pliers can be used - but it is difficult to do and you risk slipping and damaging the flexible dust seal boots, which must be replaced if you do damage them.

 

[CupraUK]

dutton wrote


You can do it without a windback tool - a large pair of circlip pliers or needle-nose pliers can be used - but it is difficult to do and you risk slipping and damaging the flexible dust seal boots, which must be replaced if you do damage them.

I had a go at doing it manually... well difficult. Buy the tool from Hellfrauds its well worth it.