Changing the sump?

[Crazyoll]

Hi all,
due to a slightly chewed up sump plug that is now dripping i'm planning on changing my sump for a new one.
Has anyone done this before and do they have any tips?
Also i'm informed that there is no gasket for the sump it just says to use a sealant.. is this true?

Any help greatly recived.
Thanks in advance

 

[Seatmann]

Well I'd get yourself one of these

and I expect they all have the same sort of bolt arrangement so look out for these hidden sods

I used the clear silicone sealant and so far I've had no trouble at all and it's been a year or so. Only the clear one though, the coloured ones aren't proper silicone and don't work well at all.

(Ask me how I know lol)


Also if your car's lowered you can buy a steel bottomed sump which offers more protection from bumps.

 

[hawkesy226]

As seatmann said 2 & 3 are abit fiddly and the one by aircon pump but an easy change. changed mine the weekend due destroying mine to having the car stupidly low.

just double check if your car has the oil level sensor fitted or not.

 

[Muttley]

Don't use too much sealant. Apparently the biggest cause of pickup pipe strainer blockages is bits of sump sealant that were squeezed out of the joint on the inside of the sump. They go hard and break off into the oil.

 

[Seatmann]

I just put on a decent bead but you really need to allow it time to cure first before tightening the bolts up. It's generally because of impatience and not letting the sealant cure that causes the problem. Put on a nice bead, place the sump in place and tighten the bolts hand tight, leave for hours to cure properly then tighten the bolts up to spec.

I must stress again though, only the clear silicone one.

Incase anyone's interested too if you look up the parts catalogue silicone sealant is the recommended stuff.

 

[csd_19]

I must stress again though, only the clear silicone one.

Incase anyone's interested too if you look up the parts catalogue silicone sealant is the recommended stuff.

The OEM sealant isn't clear, its white

Official part no is D 176404A2 "silicone sealant" (number 13 in the pic below)

But spot on about the two pain in the a*se bolts behind the flywheel

While you're busy whipping the sump off why not replace the oil pick up pipe at the same time? (or give it a damn good cleaning).

New pick up pipe is 06A115251, o-ring is N0282222, bolts are N90945001

 

[Muttley]

Other points to note:

Clean the mating surfaces of all traces of the old sealant. Surface should also be free of oil and grease before applying the sealant

Seal bead should be 2-3mm and run inside the bolt holes.

Tighten the bolts up slowly evenly or you'll squeeze out all the sealant from one corner or side of the joint.

Sump bolts 15Nm
Sump to gearbox bolts 45 Nm

Leave the joint to cure for 30 minutes before adding oil.

 

[Seatmann]

The OEM sealant isn't clear, its white

Nah man, I'm talking about if you get the bathroom stuff, the coloured ones of them aren't silicone but the clear one is, that's all.

 

[csd_19]

Nah man, I'm talking about if you get the bathroom stuff, the coloured ones of them aren't silicone but the clear one is, that's all.

Aha! lol! No worries bud

 

[Crazyoll]

Thanks for all the info Guys, job went without a hitch. Having the ball-ended alen key was essential so thank you for that tip.

 

[Seatmann]

Thanks for all the info Guys, job went without a hitch. Having the ball-ended alen key was essential so thank you for that tip.

Yeh it's handy, I think it can be done with a wobbly bar and 10mm socket but not 100% sure, I just always use the allen key instead. It's funny the only time that allen key gets used is if me or a mate whacks our sump lol.