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What you are really asking for is the air cooling, the "refrigerator" bits, to work at low outside temperatures.
There is no way short of fooling the whole car by bodging the outside temperature sensor to read high.
The climate control is still working fine, producing the cabin air temperature that you have set on the control panel.
As far as I know, the air cooling is turned off at low outside temperatures so as to avoid the formation of ice on the cooling matrix which would block all cabin air flow and really get you steamed up.
If your car is getting steamed up inside, I'd check for water leaks, either the door seals or the pollen filter: check under your carpets to make sure there aren't puddles of water under there.
At low outside temperatures the air cooling isn't going to make much difference to the water content of the cabin air in any case. Try turning the heat up a bit more?
There is no way short of fooling the whole car by bodging the outside temperature sensor to read high.
The climate control is still working fine, producing the cabin air temperature that you have set on the control panel.
As far as I know, the air cooling is turned off at low outside temperatures so as to avoid the formation of ice on the cooling matrix which would block all cabin air flow and really get you steamed up.
If your car is getting steamed up inside, I'd check for water leaks, either the door seals or the pollen filter: check under your carpets to make sure there aren't puddles of water under there.
At low outside temperatures the air cooling isn't going to make much difference to the water content of the cabin air in any case. Try turning the heat up a bit more?
sorry to hijack your thread but has your VAGCOM just started saying to many communication errors after you updated to the latest software 11.11? I did it last night and now can barely use VAGCOM. Its a genuine dongle and was working on the car fine last time I used it a few weeks ago.
David
David
Sloth
Guest
Can confirm AC is disabled at lower temperature, I think it's as the pump can't work effectively when the gas gets that cold. No way to alter this setting.
It won't be the cooling the OP is after, it'll be the supply of dry air to help clear the windows 
Heat + A/C on = clear windows fast!
IIRC 3 degrees is the cutoff for the compressor to kick in, if it did come on at that temp you risk damaging it.
Although it must be a design flaw as other manufacturers can have a/c working at that temp.
Heat + A/C on = clear windows fast!
IIRC 3 degrees is the cutoff for the compressor to kick in, if it did come on at that temp you risk damaging it.
Although it must be a design flaw as other manufacturers can have a/c working at that temp.
I'm not sure if other cars simply stop the compressor and don't tell you about it. There are basic physical principals involved here.
The air conditioning unit dries the cabin air by cooling it (cold air holds less moisture so cooling the air makes moisture condense out onto the cooling element) then heating it up again (so now it can hold more moisture, better for demisting).
If the outside air is already cold, then you aren't going to get much if any moisture out of it by cooling it further, and you risk ice forming on the cooling matrix.
The air cooling system itself is basically a refrigerator, so it will work quite happily at sub-zero temperatures. But you'd block the air ducts and drain tube with ice, so when that melted you'd get a wet floor and water on the electrics.
The best bet in cold weather is to turn the heat up as far as you can and set the air to blow on the windscreen and side windows. With Climatronic you have a button that does the air routing, augment it by manually selecting higher temperature.
But if the car is beset by heavy condensation there is usually a water leak somewhere leaving the cabin floor wet under the carpet.
The air conditioning unit dries the cabin air by cooling it (cold air holds less moisture so cooling the air makes moisture condense out onto the cooling element) then heating it up again (so now it can hold more moisture, better for demisting).
If the outside air is already cold, then you aren't going to get much if any moisture out of it by cooling it further, and you risk ice forming on the cooling matrix.
The air cooling system itself is basically a refrigerator, so it will work quite happily at sub-zero temperatures. But you'd block the air ducts and drain tube with ice, so when that melted you'd get a wet floor and water on the electrics.
The best bet in cold weather is to turn the heat up as far as you can and set the air to blow on the windscreen and side windows. With Climatronic you have a button that does the air routing, augment it by manually selecting higher temperature.
But if the car is beset by heavy condensation there is usually a water leak somewhere leaving the cabin floor wet under the carpet.
Last edited:
Sloth
Guest
Wow, learnt something more about how it all works! Agreed though, heavy moisture levels always point to a leak somewhere, normally door seals.
Alik, I don't know if you're aware but most leaks on the Toledo/Leon are due to the ancillary plate seal that is inside your door (can't see it unless you take the door card off). There's a great guide on how to fix it somewhere on here. My advice from experience is to forego trying to fix it with silicone and buy the tape that VAG recommend for fixing this problem or a similar one from a 3rd party.
-26deg C outside, nice clear windows inside. I just whack the heat up, windscreen button on CC panel and blower on full. Toastie.
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