Coolant Change on 1.2 TSI 62 plate

[everson38]

Hey guys,

Been awhike sincw posted on here. My younger sister has a Seat Ibiza 1.2 TSI S.C 62 plate. (Not sure if it mk5 or mk5 6j - if anyone could shed like on difference).

I want to change the coolant on this car but wanted to know if it has a drain plug and specific air bleeding process to do so?

This car is chain driven, so also want to know if the water pump can be replaced easily wihtout having to lock cams and all thats first, if its a straight swap type like in this video for a vw polo:

. I will also change that also.

Thanks any help aporeciated.

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[RUM4MO]

First I'll say, the only reason to consider changing the water pump on an engine that is belt driven is because the belt on older engines need replacing at 4 or 5 years and it drove the water pump, so the increased cost of replacing the water pump with the cam belt made too much sense. With this chain driven cam shaft engine, the water pump is driven by the auxiliary belt so only needs replacing if it has started to leak.

Replacing engine coolant, if it has the original engine coolant in it, it seems like the VW Group G12/G12+/G12++ has no "replace" period at least as far as VW Group are concerned. Now, I have a very low mileage February 2011 Audi S4 and I feel the need to replace the coolant soon, and it has many venting points around the engine and supercharger, and that concern me, what does not concern me is that the water pump on that chain driven engine, is external and driven off the auxiliary belt and looks very easy to replace should it ever fail.

Once, I replaced the rubber hoses on a 1994 Fiesta 1.6SI with the Zetec engine, just before going away on holiday and leaving that car for my daughters to keep them mobile, unfortunately I had got the cam shaft drive belt renewed 9 months earlier, and that engine uses the cam shaft drive belt to drive the water pump, and Ford never ever refits used cam shaft belts. So, when I flushed the engine coolant system out and took the car for a run with the new set of hoses fitted and just water in the system, I was more than annoyed to find water escaping from the water pump body - so that car needed a new water pump and timing belt sharpish! I knew that that could happen, silt in the coolant system fills in any areas that rotate and have worn a bit - slush out the system properly and you slush away the silt that has been stopping any leaks around the water pump bearing area, it was just very annoying timing - so if you do still consider changing the coolant, not only do you need to consider that it will end up with trapped air bubbles, but you might also uncover a worn and now leaking water pump - which looks okay to reach and replace.

Edit:- that car will be a 6J.

 

[everson38]

Ihey rum thanks for the feedback. I mean i cant speak for vw as much as, but changing the coolant i pressumed epuld on be a good idea since the car is 8 years old usimg original coolant? Surely even this G12 stuff isnt that good, i know vw do long life oil or changes and i would always change my oil yearly no matter the brand or miles. So your saying you thimk it best to.leave the coolant regardless of how long the car is kept for?

In regards to the water pump again i just see it as a preventative measure, now if it is only aux belt driven, i would of thought original pump 8 years old, should be a consideration? But hey im not as VW clued up as u. I know the more luxury vw cars audi etc have more difficult bleed processes, but i assumed / thought the ibizas and fabias etc would be more "mainstream".

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[RUM4MO]

The older 1.4 16V engine that was still used at this time, turned out to be a pig to get rid of trapped air, I always thought if you minimised the chances of getting air trapped, then drove the car, the trapped air would move into the reservoir as some of the circulating water always ends up being directed back to the reservoir, but I was wrong with that engine, it was obvious right away as I had a hot heater, then it would run cold and heat back up slightly then stayed cold for the rest of its first journey. I git onto the internet and discovered that the easy way to purge air out or to stop air being trapped with that engine, was to remove the engine coolant sensor and fill the system up and only refit that sensor (while continuing to keep pouring coolant into the reservoir) when air bubble stopped coming out of the sensor fitting hole in the engine - that sorted things out first time.

It could end up not being a problem and if you are sensible it will purge itself - I just can't say.

As to why VW Group don't give a recommended service life to that coolant, I can't say, though most resellers of other same stuff but rebranded only give it a few years of service life - but then they would would they not so that they keep selling it.

This is one "good" thing about having an engine that has a belt driven cam shaft, you never question them dumping the old coolant and refilling with new every 5,6,7,8 years!