Coolant issue - should it not be pink???

[finchi5]

What if there is residue of pink in the system when the blue is added? Your not supposed to mix the g11 and g12 at all from
Other forums I've read. It's just gloops together possibly causing a water pump failure doesn't it


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[DEAN0]

What if there is residue of pink in the system when the blue is added? Your not supposed to mix the g11 and g12 at all from
Other forums I've read. It's just gloops together possibly causing a water pump failure doesn't it


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Never done it and don't know anyone that has to be able to answer that.

 

[finchi5]

By all accounts it looks like they have used nissans coolant, is this the right formulation for a vag group car? Took the car in today and they looked a bit worried and have kept the car overnight.


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[BF95]

I can kill an engine mixing coolant worst case I've seen is it break the water pump and blow the head gasket it's also wrecked some engines by setting in the cylinder block

 

[finchi5]

BF59 they are my thoughts exactly. How do I know if the Nissan coolant is compatible and if there was any residual g12 still in there when they changed it. I don't know if they flushed it properly it not. They have offered ho completely flush it and put the new stuff in. The problem is in a few years time if stuff starts to go wrong with it, I don't know where I stand. Do you think they should give me a long guarantee/warranty? Flushing might fixit short term but cause problems further down the line. Basically they've done it to save money. The difference in service from sales to after care is massive. As you can tell I'm a little p*****d off about all this



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[finchi5]

Bf69 just wondered what your experience/technical quals you have. I'd like to make this point to them when I speak today


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[DEAN0]

Not trying to defend Nissan but my dad has a nissan juke

The nissan forum says "Nissan have used their 'own' green antifreeze for many years now, and it is OAT."

If the above is true - then the OAT nissan coolant is the same "type" as G12 or G13 - they are both OAT.

 

[finchi5]

Thanks dean0 that's good news then as I didn't want to top up with the wrong stuff. They have flushed anyway and re-filled with g13 do I'll see how it goes


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[G.P]

Also the 1.4 is quite refined IMO, sounds a bit dieselly on a cold morning but soon goes near silent.

Our 1.4 sounds nothing like a diesel on start up, not much difference between warm/cold start up really, either tappets or worn pistons to cause this.

Pink coolant in ours..

 

[CraigFrTsi]

See I'm now confused as I've been reading this and when my water pump went I took it to a dealer and had it replaced. When I went to pick it up the actual mechanic that did the job said that after a day 32hrs at most check your coolant and if it's low just top it up with water, now I'll be the first to emit I was dubious but even still I checked it was low and after 4-5mths the car and coolant are still working fine!?!

 

[DEAN0]

See I'm now confused as I've been reading this and when my water pump went I took it to a dealer and had it replaced. When I went to pick it up the actual mechanic that did the job said that after a day 32hrs at most check your coolant and if it's low just top it up with water, now I'll be the first to emit I was dubious but even still I checked it was low and after 4-5mths the car and coolant are still working fine!?!

If I have read it correctly on other forums - YES you can add water if you must to top up the levels. ( anything is better than nothing )

BUT - the antifreeze then reverts back to a 2 year life because it is diluted.

OAT antifreeze should be used undiluted to keep it's 5 year life.

 

[CraigFrTsi]

So I'm safe thank god

 

[RUM4MO]

If I have read it correctly on other forums - YES you can add water if you must to top up the levels. ( anything is better than nothing )

BUT - the antifreeze then reverts back to a 2 year life because it is diluted.

OAT antifreeze should be used undiluted to keep it's 5 year life.

As far as I know, the G12+, G12++ and G13, are supplied as concentrates, or so I've assumed. I've tended to either top up with straight G12+ or G12++, or eventually diluted the remainder better than 50-50 to continue to use as top up. I've only ever needed to top up after a belt change (and water pump) or once a year, just to lift the level back up to just over half way between the low and high marks, which could be the seam in the reservoir.

Please correct me if I'm wrong.

 

[DEAN0]

As far as I know, the G12+, G12++ and G13, are supplied as concentrates, or so I've assumed. I've tended to either top up with straight G12+ or G12++, or eventually diluted the remainder better than 50-50 to continue to use as top up. I've only ever needed to top up after a belt change (and water pump) or once a year, just to lift the level back up to just over half way between the low and high marks, which could be the seam in the reservoir.

Please correct me if I'm wrong.

All the bottles I have ever used/bought have said do not dilute.

Having said that - they also say on the front "COOLANT" - which probably intimates pre-mixed.

 

[RUM4MO]

All the bottles I have ever used/bought have said do not dilute.

Having said that - they also say on the front "COOLANT" - which probably intimates pre-mixed.

What you are saying makes complete sense, but, in my case, I'm still using VAG sourced G12+ which is called "coolant additive" - with a dilution of 1:1 giving protection down to -34C (I think). So what I am doing is okay with what I am using. So what stuff are you using, ie is it genuine G12++ or G13 or something equivalent to these products but premixed to be used as coolant straight out of the container?

 

[BF95]

I am qualified service tech a jag but now work for vw commercial and we sell G13 which I use in mine, blue coolant is known as summer coolant, pink coolant is all year coolant, we use g13 now because it has the best mixture for your car, you use 3 bottles of coolant then water, the reason why we say keep a look at the level is because even though we have road testes it there still might be a air lock in the system

 

[DEAN0]

What you are saying makes complete sense, but, in my case, I'm still using VAG sourced G12+ which is called "coolant additive" - with a dilution of 1:1 giving protection down to -34C (I think). So what I am doing is okay with what I am using. So what stuff are you using, ie is it genuine G12++ or G13 or something equivalent to these products but premixed to be used as coolant straight out of the container?

I have a mate in the trade who supplies Comma G30 ( G13 equivalent ) in ready to use 5ltr containers for £5 a go.
Not needed any since the radiator was replaced under warranty ( Had factory coolant in till it sprung a leak )
In one week I used 50ltrs of the Comma cos I needed the car and Seat couldn't fit me in for the work and didn't have a loan car.

 

[BF95]

Not heard of G30 before, but I know people do supply there own coolant from tps which is cheaper than seat them selfves, I will say coolant G13 is expensive but it's worth it, not when its leaking ots not worth it

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[NetworkMan]

I've been reading up a little on all this.

Some useful info here:-

http://www.voulis.com/files/voulis-coolants_en.pdf

First of all the G12++ or TL 774 G recomended in my handbook is not OAT it is SOAT (silicate organic acid technology). The silicate is apparently added to ensure a reserve of alkalinity. Fuchs who make the G12++ I used as a top-up confirm it is SOAT.

Comma G30 is not G13 approved, it is not even G12++ :-

http://www.commaoil.com/passenger-vehicles/products/view/351

It meets TL 774 D/F or G12+.

G13 is TL 774 J. See, for example:-

https://www.motul.com/system/produc...68044/original/Inugel_G13_(GB).pdf?1369901578

Just what technology G13 uses I am leaving for further study (they call it LOBRID) since apparently my car is happy with G12++.

In summary, you use a non approved coolant at your peril!!!!

 

[BF95]

I will only use genuine for mine just like I would cam belt and water pump so why skimp on the collant

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