Stokie

Mk3 Leon Fr184
May 24, 2010
278
11
Stoke
Going buy some drop links in amin,

How hard are these to fit yourself? any guides on here?

Also will the tracking have to be done or will it not knock it out off line by removing/fitting new

cheers
 
Not difficult to do at all mate, good set of spanners, think its 2 bolts mate. You will likely need to grip one bolt and undo the other as they will be wound on to one another if that makes sense? Easy job tho buddy.
 
Not difficult to do at all mate, good set of spanners, think its 2 bolts mate. You will likely need to grip one bolt and undo the other as they will be wound on to one another if that makes sense? Easy job tho buddy.

Just been out & brought them £21 for the set, theres only 1 nut on drop links (one at top, one at bottom) fitting them myself, just need know whether il need the tracking done after or not??

The two nuts your on about is Track rod ends ;) had do some a few weeks back for a mate
 
You won't need to do the tracking, the anti roll bar has no influence of camber, caster or toe.

:) Mike got there first!
 
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Just been out & brought them £21 for the set, theres only 1 nut on drop links (one at top, one at bottom) fitting them myself, just need know whether il need the tracking done after or not??

The two nuts your on about is Track rod ends ;) had do some a few weeks back for a mate

So one at the bottom and one at the top is 2 :D

Glad you got it sorted mate.
 
The bit the nut threads onto has a torx bit to hold it and then get a spanner on the nut.
Or if using an impact gun sometimes it will come away without holding it
 
The bit the nut threads onto has a torx bit to hold it and then get a spanner on the nut.
Or if using an impact gun sometimes it will come away without holding it

You lost me??? Torx bit???? aint it just a simple unscrew/screw back on, been told by my mate whos a mechanic all i need is a good spanner set never mentioned anything about a torx bit (what ever that is) lol

P.S im using just a spanner set ;)
 
You lost me??? Torx bit???? aint it just a simple unscrew/screw back on, been told by my mate whos a mechanic all i need is a good spanner set never mentioned anything about a torx bit (what ever that is) lol

P.S im using just a spanner set ;)

Usually a good socket set will contain torx bits. Looks like a philips bit but comes in a range of sizes. Used all over cars nowadays from brake discs retaining screws to all your bumper and plastic trim / undertray
 
When I did mine at only 2.5 years old.. the upper stud where the torx is used became slack so you had to use the torx to stop the stud rotating. But because of rust in the exposed thread on the stud the torx stripped out in the stud (it is pretty small). So ended up cutting the nut/stud off. Now you need a special thin nylock nut.. or in my case I used a standard nut until the dealer got me one. So just make sure that you have a spare nut to fit the top stud. Prevention would be to clean the thread out and lubricate before you start winding the nut off. Apart from that any easy job.
 
you attempted thi yet stokie?

Yeah mate, did them today after work, pig off a job, nuts were seized solid so had cut them off, but all done now & new drop links on ;) its cured majority off the knocking, but there's still a slight knock every now & again so I'm suspecting anti roll bar bushes, so going do them & well I'm at it may as well do the wishbone bushes since you have drop the sub frame for anti full bar bushes, then fingers crossed she's knock free
 
Yeah mate, did them today after work, pig off a job, nuts were seized solid so had cut them off, but all done now & new drop links on ;) its cured majority off the knocking, but there's still a slight knock every now & again so I'm suspecting anti roll bar bushes, so going do them & well I'm at it may as well do the wishbone bushes since you have drop the sub frame for anti full bar bushes, then fingers crossed she's knock free

You don't need to drop the sub frame for ARB Bushes.
 
When I did mine at only 2.5 years old.. the upper stud where the torx is used became slack so you had to use the torx to stop the stud rotating. But because of rust in the exposed thread on the stud the torx stripped out in the stud (it is pretty small). So ended up cutting the nut/stud off. Now you need a special thin nylock nut.. or in my case I used a standard nut until the dealer got me one. So just make sure that you have a spare nut to fit the top stud. Prevention would be to clean the thread out and lubricate before you start winding the nut off. Apart from that any easy job.

I had that happen on the TREs - the metal was so soft (Skoda CZ crap) that the threaded end just belled out when a Torx bit was fitted in it. The plastic on the locknuts seems to go rock hard with age and the exposed threads get very rough with corrosion.