Electric window fix

Andy999

Guest
The drivers side electric window on my 2006 altea tdi has packed in , after taking off the door panel (a job in itself) ive found a loose wire (front of the door) and also a snapped rusty wire (rear). I suspect its the regulator thats gone.

Does anyone know the cost to repair at a dealer /garage? Ive already done some of the work!!

How much / how easy is it to fix diy, and do i need to order parts direct from SEAT?

Thanks in advance
Andy
 

Andy999

Guest
Thanks for the replies, it was a very squeaky window (worse when hot) until this morning when it went bang, the cable is very frayed and looks to have been rusting away.

Just wanting to know how much a dealer fix is?

Where is a good place to get the parts for the repair?

cheers
 

Pyro

Guest
The drivers side electric window on my 2006 altea tdi has packed in , after taking off the door panel (a job in itself) ive found a loose wire (front of the door) and also a snapped rusty wire (rear). I suspect its the regulator thats gone.

Does anyone know the cost to repair at a dealer /garage? Ive already done some of the work!!

How much / how easy is it to fix diy, and do i need to order parts direct from SEAT?

Thanks in advance
Andy

i know some a man ho can get th whole panel for about £65 and they retail it at about £100-£150 obviolsly depends where you are but he could always send it for a little bit extra ;)
 

klawit

ALTEA 1.4 TSI 4YOU (my2015)
Oct 13, 2005
477
10
Germany, Cologne-Area
Thanks for the replies, it was a very squeaky window (worse when hot) until this morning when it went bang, the cable is very frayed and looks to have been rusting away.

Just wanting to know how much a dealer fix is?

Where is a good place to get the parts for the repair?

cheers

Still thinking, that a fix of the cables will do the job ....

Have you read the whole mentioned thread?
Maybe get in contact with user MWG, who apparently replaced the wiring.
The german ebay-shop lists the repair kit for £ 24,99 + £ 4,99 shipping ...
 

MWG

Active Member
Oct 6, 2008
197
1
Hertfordshire
Klawit is correct, i replaced the cables on Passenger window as one had gone rusty and some of the strands had snapped causing it to bind in the sleeve and make the horrible squealing noise

I'd have thought a dealer fix would be £2-300+ as its quite a time consuming and fiddly job to do properly. Took me a day of playing to get the glass back in the right position so it went up and down smoothly.

If you want some tips on how to do it by all means ask away
 

PhilOfCas

Active Member
Nov 2, 2006
478
0
The capital of Yorkshire
Hi Andy999 - happened to mine recently, dealer charge was £150, needed new regulator kit, motor was fine. My mate and I stripped the door panel right back but decided the final layer was too tricky/risky, i think the part was £70 to £80, rest was 1 hours labour at £69.95 !!!
 

MABSTER

Guest
The same thing happened to my 2005 Altea SPORT, Window was very noisy (especially in hot weather) lubricants made no difference.

I ended up buying a new window regulator from the dealer (about £80) and fitted myself.

Can't believe how complicated the door pannel assembly is compared to older cars. A real nasty job.
 

PhilOfCas

Active Member
Nov 2, 2006
478
0
The capital of Yorkshire
The same thing happened to my 2005 Altea SPORT, Window was very noisy (especially in hot weather) lubricants made no difference.

I ended up buying a new window regulator from the dealer (about £80) and fitted myself.

Can't believe how complicated the door pannel assembly is compared to older cars. A real nasty job.

yep, overengineered on the whole panel assembly, that's why we gave in !!!, though crucially, for us who have suffered the same fate, underengineered on the wires, mine were rusted/frayed through, which is simply poor design, i tried my hardest to argue the case with SEAT but they weren't having any of it, v v cheap car for me next !!!, not worth paying more in my book, one hundred and fifty quid to replace a bit of wire and plastic [:@] :wtf:
 

MWG

Active Member
Oct 6, 2008
197
1
Hertfordshire
It is a bit ridiculous the amount of stuff you have to do to even get to the mechanism, then taking it apart and putting the new cables in is almost impossible to do on your own.

Considering the amount they have to do i'm amazed they only charged you for an hours labour, i was expecting it to be at least 2

To buy the kit off of ebay cost about £30 delivered, then i had to get a set of spline bits (M8 is what you need) they cost me another £10 plus some talc and 1.5 days of my time to get it done properly
 

Andy999

Guest
Sounds like im going to have fun! just ordered the wires off ebay. Getting the main door panel off is a bit of a pig but once you get started its fairly easy if there are two of you to keep an eye on whats behind the panel. im currently driving around with a loose panel hanging off the door!! Getting it all back together is going to be the fun bit.

For anyone wanting to get the door panel off the key is to get the small panel off that hols the mirror adjuster, you need to physically lift the panel upwards. There is also a white plastic bit thats attached to the central locking mechanism, you need to unclip this first.
 

Andy999

Guest
What a nightmare job!

Got the ebay kit, no instructions!!!!

Have managed to fit the new wire but cant get everything back together now. There is either too much or too little tension in the wires depending on the number of turns around the cog. all ive done is replace the snapped one with an identical one. The wires are the exact same length as the replaced ones.

I had to remove the winding cog and this is where the problems started. Ive tried for hours to try and figure out how the wires are wound or how many times they are wrapped round. Keeping tension in the mechanism is a pain as the wires jump off the pulleys at the end of the regulator arms.

Has anyone tried replacing these wires as im at the end of my tether!
 

MWG

Active Member
Oct 6, 2008
197
1
Hertfordshire
Ahh you've got to the same point i did and realised you should have left well alone ;) Took me a good 2 hours of head scratching to come up with this. A second person is very much recommended when doing this

You probably have it all back together by now, i have a spare regulator kit for my drivers side which is kinda lucky so i'll try and explain how i did it

Make sure the glass carriers are on the rails and then wire them up as they were, feed the loose ends round the pulleys at the ends and keep as much slack as you can as you're going to need it.

Put the springs over the loose ends and down onto the green pieces (should be the longer ones) then feed the end of the wires to where the cog sits.

Now you want to wrap the wires round the cog, it needs to round it as much as it can so that the wires are like so



Hold onto it with one hand and with your spare hand guide the green pieces with the springs into their respective holes and hold them there.

This is the really tricky part, hold the cog vertically and carefully locate the bottom edge over the lip of the hole it needs to go into. Now you want to rotate it 90 degrees so it goes into the hole, it'll take a bit of force as you're compressing the springs and may need pushing down into the hole but you'll soon work it out

Hope this helps
 

DukeOfHunslet

Guest
My window too had been squeeking. Yesterday in went 'ping' and stopped. Worse, I couldn't get the window back up so I took the door apart to get at the mechanism today. I haven't ordered the part yet, will do that tomorrow. For now I just wanted to get the window all the way up so at least passing tea leafs don't see the open window.

So I got out my tools and soon had the visible screws undone and the speaker out. It didn't move which is when I wrecked the snap off lower panel to investigate some more screws. Anyway I eventually had the handle and switches off and then the trim panel but this still lefty the main unit - despite not being held in place it was stuck fast - I now know that the first thing you should remove is the mirror cover although the manual does not give many clues as to how you do this - I'm sure I'll work it out.

Anyway I could at least get to the mechanism via the holes that I could get in and a few snips at the cable revealed a frayed upper cable. The lower cable was preventing the window from rising so that came out too. Now the window at least goes all the way up but on top of the repair kit I am now going to have to order the lower trim panel too.

Can't believe that having removed about a dozen screws the thing is held in place solid - shame they couldn't apply the same engineering ethos to the poxy chicken wire mechanism.

I will let you know my progress...but not looking forward to it.

Rich.
 

MWG

Active Member
Oct 6, 2008
197
1
Hertfordshire
Removing the trim by the mirror takes some real effort, not the easiest of things to get a good grip on [:@] You have to pull it as hard as you can at ~45 degrees from the glass

I can't remember exactly the procedure but you have to

remove all the screws holding the rails and panel in place

remove the blank/ key hole by the door handle

Bent-Door-After.jpg


disconnect the door handle from the locking mechanism

remove the 2 M8 spline bolts holding the lock to the door

you may need to unplug some cables as well, then gently lift the panel up and it should come away from the door
 

Andy999

Guest
Dont waste your time with the repair kit! i spent 2 days for no result and couldnt get the correct tension in the wires. not worth the hassle in my book, far easier to fit a complete regulator.

I got so frustrated i rang around and ended up getting the genuine complete seat regulator fitted on the same day for £120+vat at Pitstop motors in Newcastle.

I was quoted £87+vat for just the part from my local seat dealer so all in im a happy chappy.
 
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