Fault code 17705...
- Thread starter richie kaye
- Start date
this fault is usually caused by a dirty throttle body
clean out and reset basics of throttle
also check for air leaks in inlet side
clean out and reset basics of throttle
also check for air leaks in inlet side
Check all connections between turbo and trottle body
-Boost pipe to pancake pipe
-pancake pipe to intercooler
-intercooler to throttle body
Also check all the vacuum hoses under the inlet manifold!
I had the same error and after checking all the connections (above) I cleaned the throttle body and bought a new N75 valve. Error hasnt returned since...
-Boost pipe to pancake pipe
-pancake pipe to intercooler
-intercooler to throttle body
Also check all the vacuum hoses under the inlet manifold!
I had the same error and after checking all the connections (above) I cleaned the throttle body and bought a new N75 valve. Error hasnt returned since...
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Thanx for your reples guys..
After posting this thread last night after clearing this code
Drove about 2miles down the road and the car went into Retarded mode,hardly any boost at all and I thought I was driving a St170 lol
Drove home and just took it steady,horrible though like driving with binding brakes
Plugged in code reader and ive got the same code again tonight..too cold to be under the bonnet messing
After posting this thread last night after clearing this code
Drove about 2miles down the road and the car went into Retarded mode,hardly any boost at all and I thought I was driving a St170 lol
Drove home and just took it steady,horrible though like driving with binding brakes
Plugged in code reader and ive got the same code again tonight..too cold to be under the bonnet messing
No, thats the MAP (manifold absolute pressure) sensor. The n75 sits on the Turbo intake pipe (small black thingy) with 3 connections and a electrical plug
Is throttle body easier enough to remove and clean?
Any chance of a picture showing it/location.
i would be checking the turbo inlet pipe first. make sure its all connected up properly. just replaced mine with badger 5s v3 tip. now i need to decide what im going to do with my breather pipes as i need to replace them. to make sure everything is tip top condition. think i will start a new thread to discuss my options for them instead of littering youres. hope you get it sorted.
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Yes its very easy to clean, takes about 30mins if you're thorough. Disconnect the 2 connectors and unbolt 4 allen bolts and it comes right off (also take of the IC to TB hose off course). Clean, replace the gasket and remount. Reconnect the connectors and do a throttle body reset via vagcom.
http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/cars/throttlebody.html
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Removed the throttle body today and it was caked full of carbon deposits,
So removed it and gave it a good clean..i dont have vagcom yet to reset the throttle body,but I have put it back on and taken for a drive and seems to idle fine,choke came on on start up(first start of the day) and drove fine
Not going to tempt fate and take it steady untill it reprogrammes its setting from the ecu
Also had a brief check round the visable pipes(cant see any gashes or holes),Removed my dv and stripped down and cleaned,was full of rubbish as well,Regreased using a very thin Ht grease around the piston,Tighten up all the jubillee clips
Next stop,Garage smoke test to see where im losing boost pressure,Car felt less boggy and more responsive
and im pleased because its a step closer to decoking the engine
Cleared the fault code 17705 again,Now I shall drive it to work in the morn and then test it when up to proper temp
So removed it and gave it a good clean..i dont have vagcom yet to reset the throttle body,but I have put it back on and taken for a drive and seems to idle fine,choke came on on start up(first start of the day) and drove fine
Not going to tempt fate and take it steady untill it reprogrammes its setting from the ecu
Also had a brief check round the visable pipes(cant see any gashes or holes),Removed my dv and stripped down and cleaned,was full of rubbish as well,Regreased using a very thin Ht grease around the piston,Tighten up all the jubillee clips
Next stop,Garage smoke test to see where im losing boost pressure,Car felt less boggy and more responsive
and im pleased because its a step closer to decoking the engine
Cleared the fault code 17705 again,Now I shall drive it to work in the morn and then test it when up to proper temp
It could be a dodgy n75 valve btw, I had to replace mine to resolve this issue. I had an old F revision and got a new E revision (supersedes old F revision).
Also: do a thorough check of the vacuum pipes, the ones under the inlet manifold are hard to see (I had to disconnect them before I spotted they were cracked)
Also: do a thorough check of the vacuum pipes, the ones under the inlet manifold are hard to see (I had to disconnect them before I spotted they were cracked)
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Thanx for that bud,still think there is a boost leak as it hesitated before it come on boost
Glad I cleaned the throttle body out,not so jerky through gear changes and the Dv is smoother too
Think im going to build a d.i.y boost leak tester,how much is an N75 valve?
Could do with a lend of one to see if its any different...Vagcom it soon(end of week)
Glad I cleaned the throttle body out,not so jerky through gear changes and the Dv is smoother too
Think im going to build a d.i.y boost leak tester,how much is an N75 valve?
Could do with a lend of one to see if its any different...Vagcom it soon(end of week)
New n75 valve in the Netherlands was about €58 aka 47 quid (from the dealer). Buy a n75 which is suited for your car, don't just buy a race / j revision / whatever.
Did you get this sorted m8?
Also is there any way to test the n75 with vagcom?
Whilst my tip had a whole in it would the remap on the Ecuador adjusted its fueling permantley to account for it? Someone mentioned it might have but I don't really believe it Cheers
Also is there any way to test the n75 with vagcom?
Whilst my tip had a whole in it would the remap on the Ecuador adjusted its fueling permantley to account for it? Someone mentioned it might have but I don't really believe it Cheers
Sadly not,Been to the garage this morning and they wont perform a Smoke test to find any leaks
Went to another garage and he runs a Turbod beamer...he said cupras have pop off fittings around the Smic
Gonna have another visable look
The 'pop off' fittings have rubber 'o' rings, fairly common to split, so I've heard anyway, I had a new one for my (long) pancake pipe hose, it happened to be wrong but old one looked good, so cleaned and refitted it, if it had popped off, you'd have a serious hiss and a permanent lack of power, 'o' rings are only a few quid and a ten minute job too... How close are 'r tech' to you? They might be able to help mate...?
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