Headlight restoration guide

abhardwaj1990

Yes, I'm licking my hand
Mar 16, 2009
3,434
0
Shottingham
Haven't seen a decent guide on here for this so thought I'd make one.

What you'll need:
  • A headlight
  • 3m detailing tape, or masking tape
  • DA polisher or rotary
  • Heavy cut wool pad
  • Meguiars PlastX
  • A wide range of wet and dry sandpaper
  • Bucket of water with a little soap added
  • A couple of microfibre cloths

First thing I did, make sure the surface is clean. Then tape up, make sure you use plenty of tape to cover up any paint, you can never use enough tape! Last thing you want to do is scratch your paint work.
Please don't try sanding if you don't feel confident or have not done it before, give it some practise first, don't want to be hearing "oh I followed your guide and ended up with even worse headlights than before!" lol.
Also beware, if you are sanding, it will remove the UV protection from your headlights!

What I started with
DSCF3337.jpg


A couple of passes with the wool pad and plastX gave me this:
DSCF3702.jpg


Better but still not that clear, riddled with tiny stone chips and quite scratched (hard to pick up with the camera), so I got onto the sanding. The grades I used ranged from 400 to 2500. I would recommend going higher to 3000 but I didn't have any lol. Made sure to soak all the sand paper I was to use in the bucket of water for about half an hour or so.

As my headlights weren't in the greatest condition I jumped straight in with the 400, dry to remove imperfections possible bringing it back to a flat smooth surface, making sure I worked in straight strokes from side to side.
DSCF3704.jpg


Then moved onto 800 dry, this time working from bottom to top and vice versa. Make sure to change the direction every time you move up or down a grade of paper to get the smoothest surface possible.
DSCF3705.jpg


Now that most the imperfections had been sanded away, it was time for the wet sandpaper to get a smooth finish, I started again at 400 and worked my way up, working with 800, 1200, 1500, 2000 and finishing with 2500. Remember, whenever changing grades or paper, work in a different direction, keeping it in straight strokes. Never work in circles!

Here's a few pictures from the process. Make sure to clean the headlight after each grade to ensure the surface is clean and keep the paper wet and lubricated at all times!

DSCF3706.jpg


DSCF3708.jpg


DSCF3707.jpg


Now the sanding is done, I cleaned the headlight, then hit it was the polisher and wool pad again. Gave it 2 passes and the headlight was looking better already, still slightly misty:

DSCF3710.jpg


So then applied some PlastX by hand

DSCF3709.jpg


Kept rubbing it in till it had cleared up, then buffed down with a clean microfibre cloth.

Then repeated for the other headlight. Here's what I ended up with:

DSCF3711.jpg
 

Tobs

Guest
Thanks! Definetly going to be trying this! My lights are suffering from a few stone chips!
 

SalSheikh

Under the Hood
Sep 2, 2009
2,756
5
Midlands, UK
i felt balsy when attempting stone chips repairs and it went horribly wrong so had the bonnet resprayed to cover my mistakes - costly error :whistle:
 
Sep 3, 2009
1,230
0
Walsall, West Mids
Nice guide... :thumbup:

Not sure i would have gone as heavy as 400 grit either but fair play for getting the results you did.

My only additions would be... leave the wet n dry in a bucket of soapy water overnight... this makes sure they are properly soaked and softened. I would only use wet paper as well, nothing dry. Lastly i would have used a 4" polishing pad on the DA to finish down with a medium cut compound after the plastX on the wool pad, this might have given you a sharper finish.
 

abhardwaj1990

Yes, I'm licking my hand
Mar 16, 2009
3,434
0
Shottingham

:thumbup:

i felt balsy when attempting stone chips repairs and it went horribly wrong so had the bonnet resprayed to cover my mistakes - costly error :whistle:

:happy: That's never good. I've also done some stupid things but you learn from your mistakes lol

Nice guide... :thumbup:

Not sure i would have gone as heavy as 400 grit either but fair play for getting the results you did.

My only additions would be... leave the wet n dry in a bucket of soapy water overnight... this makes sure they are properly soaked and softened. I would only use wet paper as well, nothing dry. Lastly i would have used a 4" polishing pad on the DA to finish down with a medium cut compound after the plastX on the wool pad, this might have given you a sharper finish.

I had tried just wet before, but didn't get the results I wanted so thought I'd save some time and attack them with dry lol. Will try a spot pad next time and see how I fair.
 
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