stage1 maps won't require parts such as CAI and TBE
Its cheaper to buy an uprated DV instead of the Forge and its still digitally controlled and not manually.
if your getting an exhaust you should leave the CAI and get a full exhaust with sports cat then get cai and add the stage 2
Its cheaper to buy an uprated DV instead of the Forge and its still digitally controlled and not manually.
if your getting an exhaust you should leave the CAI and get a full exhaust with sports cat then get cai and add the stage 2
Agree with the DV Dave, cheaper and much easier to fit than the Forge but did the D/P last and found it wasn't being too much of a bottleneck. What was holding me back most of all was air intake temps too high to allow me to run a goodly amount of boost/timing on stage 2+. Air intake/intercooler I feel is the way to go, probably before anything on the exhaust if money is a constraint, it's cheaper than a Milltek TBE, could see 320hp with the right Revo stage 1 settings imho.........
If a grand is the limit, second hand fiull Milltek (one on here for sale in the classifieds last time I looked) and remap. Intake before fuel pump is not wise in my opinion. Dont waste your money uprating the DV unless you go for the OEM spring DV upgrade.
If you have another grand in a while then you should then go for the fuel pump, intake and intercooler.
If you have another grand in a while then you should then go for the fuel pump, intake and intercooler.
Why do you feel intake before fuel pump not wise? Anything to make the air/fuel charge denser and therefore more efficient has to be good on any engine irrespective of the state of tune and the std airbox is pants, the ecu won't demand more fuel just because of that, it'll just be more efficient......... If he can get a cheap TBE however that would also be good!
You are right in theory - however, it is the combination of the stock intake and stock fuel pump both being crap thats the issue but not if you change them together or fuel pump first then intake.
For example, if you uprate the fuel pump, your fuelling and AFR will be safe on a mapped car with a stock intake. Change the intake for a free flowing unit on a remapped car with a stock pump, and you will risk running lean and also risk fuel cuts due to the stock fuel pump not being able to cope with the demand asked of it due to much more air flowing because of the free flowing air intake.
Of course if you did go intake before fuel pump on a remapped car with exhaust etc like one person I know does, you could run more limited settings if the ecu code allows it, but if you have seen a dyno plot of a car with exhaust, intake, intercooler and OEM fuel pump, all this becomes that little bit more apparent and will make more sense as the car is clearly struggling for fuel where it needs it most.
Bottom line is that the intake gives a better gain, but a fuel pump gives the base for that gain to be better still, and keeps things that little bit safer.
Hallelujah. Thank f***ing God someone has stepped up and said the DP isn't that much of a restriction. Music to my ears. I'm sure you get some benefit, but not at the level that most people try and justify after they have just paid out for one. Of late I've been deeply unimpressed by exhausts as OEM ones have improved a bit on high end cars.
I'm beginning to be convinced any future mods of mine have to address intake temps. If I get stuck behind a car on a motorway and then go to get past when they pull in, I'm almost certain the restricted airflow is putting up the intake temps up and backing of the available boost. Off the line the car is a rocket, but once you are up to speed and get restricted airflow situations it noticeably backs off.
I don't know whether to uprate I/C (the S3 one ain't that bad), or opt for WMI or a spray bar. I want a solution that is not temporary so I'm constantly having to top it up.
Ken when your forge twin cooler was fitted did it need much cutting and shutting of the bumper ? i have seen someone do it and the hose got chaafed by the bodywork and went through the pipe.
I do have to agree about the exhaust system , i dont think it warrants an aftermarket upgrade , any way my exhaust is not that old and cant justify £1000 + for the gains
I do have to agree about the exhaust system , i dont think it warrants an aftermarket upgrade , any way my exhaust is not that old and cant justify £1000 + for the gains
Ken when your forge twin cooler was fitted did it need much cutting and shutting of the bumper ? i have seen someone do it and the hose got chaafed by the bodywork and went through the pipe.
I do have to agree about the exhaust system , i dont think it warrants an aftermarket upgrade , any way my exhaust is not that old and cant justify £1000 + for the gains
Actually, on my car when stock, the full Milltek with Carbonio made 10bhp over the same car with stock intake and stock exhaust.
Tthe difference when tuned is a lot more noticeable including quicker harder spool and longer revving. Numbers dont say everything. I would defo add a full exhaust - the noise is incredible too. You can have a used Milltek for well less than a grand.
got to agree with al above.
while cooling the air will make it denser so allowing more in, if your fuel pump cant deliver increased flow then a high afr is possible.
dont forget that fuel itself plays a huge part in engine cooling and heat soak prevention.
Point taken re safety on fuelling, not 100% sure if the ecu would actually let the car run lean but best be safe eh! Oh if I'd actually had the time to log each and every mod on the dyno, would've been interesting, but a few of the mods were done together......
Rob, the instructions with the Twintercooler do state what you need to remove from the front bumper, what they DON'T state is that one of the undertray screws will pierce the o/s (I think) intercooler hose as Robgti found out! Check carefully on this and leave the screw out...... Also, even with the relevant plastics removed, there are some clearance issues with the hoses for the front i/c, you may need to offer the bumper up a couple of times to check, I padded the i/c hoses with some cut-off from the new hoses (you'll probably need to shorten them to get a nice run, measure twice cut once!) One of the best things about fitting the Twintercooler is that you have to remove the transmission cooler ducting, this means there is now a good air path to the rear of the n/s headlight which is where the air intake is!!
Rob, the instructions with the Twintercooler do state what you need to remove from the front bumper, what they DON'T state is that one of the undertray screws will pierce the o/s (I think) intercooler hose as Robgti found out! Check carefully on this and leave the screw out...... Also, even with the relevant plastics removed, there are some clearance issues with the hoses for the front i/c, you may need to offer the bumper up a couple of times to check, I padded the i/c hoses with some cut-off from the new hoses (you'll probably need to shorten them to get a nice run, measure twice cut once!) One of the best things about fitting the Twintercooler is that you have to remove the transmission cooler ducting, this means there is now a good air path to the rear of the n/s headlight which is where the air intake is!!
totally agree. but with boost/fuel/timing user selectable with certain software who knows?
The ECU will pull back boost to account for the lack of fuel, and if the mix is lean to the point of it being potentially dangerous for the engine, thats when you will experience fuel cuts where the ecu will shut the engine down as a means to protect it.
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