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Inspired by FinerDetails...
- Thread starter spyke85
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- finerdetails inspired
the 1st thing that hit home for me was to stop using the sponge.
and start using the 2 bucket method (mitts from tesco=£3, or u cud get proper lambs wool ones for more), then the wonder of claying.
then on the open day, i realised that i actually know nothing, there's so much more to learn, its fantastic.
to believe that you can perform magic on the paint-work, and not think that it needs a re-spray (obvious limits there, but u get my enthusiam)
and start using the 2 bucket method (mitts from tesco=£3, or u cud get proper lambs wool ones for more), then the wonder of claying.
then on the open day, i realised that i actually know nothing, there's so much more to learn, its fantastic.
to believe that you can perform magic on the paint-work, and not think that it needs a re-spray (obvious limits there, but u get my enthusiam)
With the wax on was off wipe situation it's just a very thin layer required? I did my roof last night applied verticall and removed horizontally by it took a little to get it off.
I think I must have over applied.
Also tried to clay the roof. there wasn's a lot removed... Some orangey stuff - which I assume must be sap. The surface still feels quite rough but I did it all to the instructions?
One thing I did find was that some of the grabbing was caused by imperfections in the paint itself.
I think I must have over applied.
Also tried to clay the roof. there wasn's a lot removed... Some orangey stuff - which I assume must be sap. The surface still feels quite rough but I did it all to the instructions?
One thing I did find was that some of the grabbing was caused by imperfections in the paint itself.
I bought a clay bar off ebay last night, its a mild Sonus 100g bar for £6.49+.50 P&P which i though was quite cheap. I will be doing mine at the end of the month
hehehe, 'Car Cleaning by FinerDetails'
dont clay after wax, cos what's the point? the contaminants are hiding under the wax.
edit: actually, im not sure if it is wrong to clay on wax....
what happened on the open day, if it's the first time your detailing, just wash the car, 2 bucket method wiv cheap shampoo, washing up liquid etc.
this should remove the wax, and stuff left over from previous noob attempts.
then the fun begins, once your back to the factory clear-coat (+contaminents), then clay to get rid of the crud.
then carry on from there, de-swirl if needed, paint cleanser, blah blah.
well, that's how i remember it.
then, for future washes, use proper shampoo, not cheap stuff that will strip away you new labour of love...
dont clay after wax, cos what's the point? the contaminants are hiding under the wax.
edit: actually, im not sure if it is wrong to clay on wax....
what happened on the open day, if it's the first time your detailing, just wash the car, 2 bucket method wiv cheap shampoo, washing up liquid etc.
this should remove the wax, and stuff left over from previous noob attempts.
then the fun begins, once your back to the factory clear-coat (+contaminents), then clay to get rid of the crud.
then carry on from there, de-swirl if needed, paint cleanser, blah blah.
well, that's how i remember it.
then, for future washes, use proper shampoo, not cheap stuff that will strip away you new labour of love...
Last edited:
jetsetjimbo said:With the wax on was off wipe situation it's just a very thin layer required? I did my roof last night applied verticall and removed horizontally by it took a little to get it off.
I think I must have over applied.
Also tried to clay the roof. there wasn's a lot removed... Some orangey stuff - which I assume must be sap. The surface still feels quite rough but I did it all to the instructions?
One thing I did find was that some of the grabbing was caused by imperfections in the paint itself.
Hi james,
just pure experience here mate. The roughness could still be there due to a number of things, either clay not aggresive enough, but seem to remember you are using th megs kit, so shouldn't be that, or just need more passes....
orange -prob tree sap and pollen.....
stains the paintwork damn stuff
X20HER said:
excellent, once we get everyone competently claying we will progress to cleansing...
fuey said:hehehe, 'Car Cleaning by FinerDetails'
dont clay after wax, cos what's the point? the contaminants are hiding under the wax.
edit: actually, im not sure if it is wrong to clay on wax....
what happened on the open day, if it's the first time your detailing, just wash the car, 2 bucket method wiv cheap shampoo, washing up liquid etc.
this should remove the wax, and stuff left over from previous noob attempts.
then the fun begins, once your back to the factory clear-coat (+contaminents), then clay to get rid of the crud.
then carry on from there, de-swirl if needed, paint cleanser, blah blah.
well, that's how i remember it.
then, for future washes, use proper shampoo, not cheap stuff that will strip away you new labour of love...
almost recited as well as your ABC sir, well done!
FinerDetails said:Hi james,
just pure experience here mate. The roughness could still be there due to a number of things, either clay not aggresive enough, but seem to remember you are using th megs kit, so shouldn't be that, or just need more passes....
orange -prob tree sap and pollen.....
Cool - so if the paintwork looks ok whatever is causing the roughness should really come off apart from the odd paint blemish?
Am I better to lube and wax then wipe / dry with the mf and then re-lube and clay or just keep on lubing and claying?
Will too much lube reduce the effectiveness with the clay?
I assume the difficulty removing the NXT is just over application.
Q: Am I better to lube and wax then wipe / dry with the mf and then re-lube and clay or just keep on lubing and claying?
A: just lube and clay. Wax comes after sealent.
wash > clay > de-swirl > cleanse paint > polish > seal (45min cure) > wax
A: just lube and clay. Wax comes after sealent.
wash > clay > de-swirl > cleanse paint > polish > seal (45min cure) > wax
fuey said:
I understand that - just wondering about judging the effectiveness of each clay pass.
Iain - maybe evening condensation preventing curing.....
How can I prevent that?
hi guys!!
quick question even if dumb sounding.. what is Clay cleaning as such? whats the purpose..
I bought the autoglym valet kit the other day.. £39.99.. superb IMHO. quick rinse down with the shampoo conditioner, then a bit of paint renovator, then the resin polish, then the extra gloss polish.. the results if done properly are wicked..
all about a bit of elbow grease lads!!
quick question even if dumb sounding.. what is Clay cleaning as such? whats the purpose..
I bought the autoglym valet kit the other day.. £39.99.. superb IMHO. quick rinse down with the shampoo conditioner, then a bit of paint renovator, then the resin polish, then the extra gloss polish.. the results if done properly are wicked..
all about a bit of elbow grease lads!!
take a looky:
http://www.autopia-carcare.com/inf-clay.html
Its clearing the paintwork of continates as ive recently learned, FinerDetails also posted up a few links just above ^^^
http://www.autopia-carcare.com/inf-clay.html
Its clearing the paintwork of continates as ive recently learned, FinerDetails also posted up a few links just above ^^^
Iain, ur brains are needed
Q: just wondering about judging the effectiveness of each clay pass.
you keep claying till it stops 'grabbing at the paint'. if your really unsure, MF the area, and run your clean fingers over it, it should be 'glass smooth'.
if ur still unsure, find a spot that hasn't been clayed, or even a car down the road, and feel the paint, then feel where u have clayed, it'll be like chalk and cheese, then u'll know ur doing it right.
no real thing as curing (correct me if im wrong) when it comes to claying, cos ur just de-contaminating the paint work / clear coat.
Q: just wondering about judging the effectiveness of each clay pass.
you keep claying till it stops 'grabbing at the paint'. if your really unsure, MF the area, and run your clean fingers over it, it should be 'glass smooth'.
if ur still unsure, find a spot that hasn't been clayed, or even a car down the road, and feel the paint, then feel where u have clayed, it'll be like chalk and cheese, then u'll know ur doing it right.
no real thing as curing (correct me if im wrong) when it comes to claying, cos ur just de-contaminating the paint work / clear coat.
fuey said:Iain, ur brains are needed
Q: just wondering about judging the effectiveness of each clay pass.
you keep claying till it stops 'grabbing at the paint'. if your really unsure, MF the area, and run your clean fingers over it, it should be 'glass smooth'.
if ur still unsure, find a spot that hasn't been clayed, or even a car down the road, and feel the paint, then feel where u have clayed, it'll be like chalk and cheese, then u'll know ur doing it right.
no real thing as curing (correct me if im wrong) when it comes to claying, cos ur just de-contaminating the paint work / clear coat.
The curing was in reference to the NXT wax
jetsetjimbo said:
As Fuey has said, compare with none clayed areas, and if unsure to that extent, wipe clear, feel lightly with back of fingers and continue/move on as required.
Evening condensation will stop NXT from curing properly. Quite well known with this one step product
andyGbeatz said:
We have discussed the preparation process a few times now, time to create a sticky post!
FinerDetails said:
basically, GET A PC, better uniform finish, in a quicker time, with less effort
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