Intermittent Issue - Help Please!

AliB

Active Member
May 13, 2017
5
0
Hi, I was hoping someone might be able to help me with an intermittent issue I'm having with my MK2 Leon (2012). I've noticed we that the 12v socket, which I use for my satnav, will stop working. When this happens my interior fans also stop working. It started off as a rarity, but now seems to happen all the time. Has anyone had this issue before? Or could you suggest a possible cause/resolution?

Thanks in advance!
 

Speed-FReek

Active Member
Jun 12, 2013
1,110
18
United Kingdom
I need more details on your car to ensure that I'm checking the correct wiring diagram. Which engine code does your car have?

If you look in the boot under the carpet on the left hand side you should find a sticker with a load of codes on that looks something like the one in the picture below. On this example sticker the engine code is "BAD" so I just need the code that is shown on yours.

rear%20seat%20trim%20label.jpg



Also, when the 12v socket and heater unit fans stop working, does your rear windscreen wiper stop working as well?
 

AliB

Active Member
May 13, 2017
5
0
I hadn't noticed the back wiper, but when it happened again today I tried it and it also doesn't work when the fault occurs. I looked for the sticker with the code, unfortunately it's not as clear as yours - I think the code is either CAYC or GAYC.

Thanks for coming back to me.

Ali
 

Speed-FReek

Active Member
Jun 12, 2013
1,110
18
United Kingdom
It will be CAYC.

The 12v socket, heater control unit, and the rear windscreen wiper all run from a single common power source node so the fact that all 3 items fail when the issue arises means that the problem most likely lies somewhere there. I'll post up more details when I'm home from work.
 

Speed-FReek

Active Member
Jun 12, 2013
1,110
18
United Kingdom
Sorry for the delayed reply. Meant to reply yesterday evening but ended up getting side-tracked with other things.

As previously mentioned, the 12v socket, heater control unit, and the rear windscreen all share a single common power feed. These are the only 3 items on that particular power feed line so it's a fairly high probability that it is that common power line which is the cause of the issue you're experiencing.

The power line that supplies those 3 items runs from a single 50A fuse under the bonnet, through a relay which is inside the cabin, then into the internal fuse box where it provides 3 individual smaller fuses with power, one fuse to each of the 3 items.

As all 3 items are failing together, the most likely cause is that either the relay is faulty (or has a dodgy connection), or there is something a dodgy with the 50A fuse.

The first thing I would do is to re-seat both the relay and the fuse in case it is just a bad contact in one or both of those. To do this, you simply just need to unplug them and plug them back in again. And while they are out, it is worth checking for any oxidation on the spade connectors of the relay/fuse. If they don't look great then use a bit of scotchbrite to clean them up before placing them back into their respective sockets.

To find the relay in question, you need to remove the piece of trim under your light switch to the right of the steering wheel. This will then reveal a hole where your OBD connector is located along with a couple of relay carriers. To remove that piece of trim, put your fingers around the bottom right hand edge and carefully yank it off. It's just held on with a few spring clips...

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Inside the hole, you will see two relay carriers, an upper one and a lower one. It is the lower one you are interested in and that one will contain either 4 or 5 relays (the 5th one is only present if your car has engine start/stop functionality). The relay that controls the power circuit in question is the grey one on the left with the number 373 on which is closest to the OBD socket and is in relay position #2 on the diagram below. This is the relay that you need to re-seat (and also clean up if necessary)...

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After you have done that, open the bonnet and locate the main fuse box. This is the box on the right hand side of the engine bay directly to the right of the battery (location #2 on the diagram below)...

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Once you've found it, remove the lid by sliding forward the two levers that are on the lid. Then locate fuse number SB30 (marked as "F30" in the fuse box itself). This is the bottom most fuse on the left hand side that is directly above item "A2" in the diagram below. It should be red because that is the standard colour code used for 50A fuses. It is this fuse that you need to re-seat (and also clean up if necessary)...

2ikzd5y.jpg



Do the above as a first port of call and see if it resolves your problem. Please report back with the results, whether it fixes your issue, or if you still experience the same problem as before.
 
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AliB

Active Member
May 13, 2017
5
0
Wow!! Thanks for the detail, that's fantastic.

I got looking at the car this morning before work; the relay itself came out and back in reasonably easily - I did notice it was quite warm to touch, although the engine had been running for about an hour. It didn't seem to be oxidised.

I also had a look at the fuse box and removed the first fuse directly above where it was illustrated A2, again there didn't seem to be an evidence of it being oxidised.

I will see how it goes and keep you posted!

Thanks again, it's really appreciated.
 
Last edited:

Speed-FReek

Active Member
Jun 12, 2013
1,110
18
United Kingdom
If the re-seating turns out not to have worked then get yourself a new 373 relay (VAG part number 8D0951253A) because it's possible that the contacts inside have burned or become carbonised and aren't making a reliable connection anymore. While you can use an alternative "compatible" relay, I would just get a genuine VAG one if I was you.

There's one here: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/132190661325
 

AliB

Active Member
May 13, 2017
5
0
So far so good. If it goes again i'll definitely pick up a genuine VAG. Thank you again for all your help!!