Is a battery change on a non flip key as straight forward as it sounds, i.e. I don't have to worry about re-programming it? Also, i've noticed a couple of battery references, CR2016 and CR2032. Could it be either?
Keyfob battery change
- Thread starter Paul B2010
- Start date
no its 2 x cr2016 trust me ive just changed mine... you shouldnt have to reprogram it... but theres the odd chance you will... if you only have the one key you can remove the door lock barrell by the t20 screw under the plastic cap in the doors edge and use a screw driver as the other key, then detach your key blade from your remote and use the blade to turn ignition on...
hope this helps
hope this helps
I have got two keys. The one im changing the battery on, and one which has no buttons on it at all.
I used 1xCR2032. They're both 3 volt batteries, all you're doing with two CR2016's is creating a 2032. I think the reason why some people get better results from two CR2016's is that they can provide a better contact on the terminals of worn keys, but a CR2032 will work just as well for most people.
I've never had to reprogram my key.
I've never had to reprogram my key.
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Slimy, sorry but both CR2016 and CR2032 are 3v lithium cells.
The number refers to the size of the cell: 20mm diameter, 1.6 or 3.2 mm thick. So you can fit two CR 2016 in the same holder that a single 2032 fits into. However 2xCR2016 will give you 6V which is not recommended if the electronics is expecting 3V from a single 2032.
I think some keys have two CR2016 and some have a single CR2032. The only way to be sure is to take the fob apart. I think it's older keys that have 6V electronics, but both my Toledos (2001 and 2004) had/have 1xCR2032 keys.
I had some fun changing my key battery recently, as described in this thread. The key indicated that the cell was dying by flashing the red LED constantly. I can't see it doing that for too long on a dead cell, though. Fortunately for me it happened while I was out in the car - came back to it, remote wouldn't work, scratch head, look at keyfob: ooooh, look a that
Used the key in the lock to get into the car.
The keyfob does not need to be resynchronised to the alarm in my experience.
The keyfob is a radio-frequency remote control for the alarm system and central locking, which is one of two separate systems that restrict your ability to get into the car and start it. The other is the immobiliser, which uses a transponder build into the keyblade half of the key and is also present in the "dumb" key (which has no buttons: you have to use the key in the door lock to get in). The transponder uses no battery, it is energised and read by a coil surrounding the ignition key barrel.
The number refers to the size of the cell: 20mm diameter, 1.6 or 3.2 mm thick. So you can fit two CR 2016 in the same holder that a single 2032 fits into. However 2xCR2016 will give you 6V which is not recommended if the electronics is expecting 3V from a single 2032.
I think some keys have two CR2016 and some have a single CR2032. The only way to be sure is to take the fob apart. I think it's older keys that have 6V electronics, but both my Toledos (2001 and 2004) had/have 1xCR2032 keys.
I had some fun changing my key battery recently, as described in this thread. The key indicated that the cell was dying by flashing the red LED constantly. I can't see it doing that for too long on a dead cell, though. Fortunately for me it happened while I was out in the car - came back to it, remote wouldn't work, scratch head, look at keyfob: ooooh, look a that
Used the key in the lock to get into the car.The keyfob does not need to be resynchronised to the alarm in my experience.
The keyfob is a radio-frequency remote control for the alarm system and central locking, which is one of two separate systems that restrict your ability to get into the car and start it. The other is the immobiliser, which uses a transponder build into the keyblade half of the key and is also present in the "dumb" key (which has no buttons: you have to use the key in the door lock to get in). The transponder uses no battery, it is energised and read by a coil surrounding the ignition key barrel.
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Ive bought both just in case. The cr2032 was mega cheap so made for an easy decision. Hope one of them sorts it. I never noticed any flashing light on keyfob, but then its very easily forgotten that there is a light on the keyfob. No light at all, is about as much indication ive got that the battery has died.
Well mine was a CR2032. Shame on you Haines, lol! Anyhow, ive put new battery in and nothing. Going to try a 2nd new one, check my connections, and if that dont work, prob need new fob i imagine.
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It was the connection that was lifting. Great thanks to all for your input, and thanks to Muttley for this 'guide' below.
http://www.seatcupra.net/forums/showthread.php?t=354564&highlight=keyfob+battery+change
http://www.seatcupra.net/forums/showthread.php?t=354564&highlight=keyfob+battery+change
Sorry, yep you're right. The cells are in series rather than in parallel, so you do indeed get 6 volts. I think I need to go back to school....
they are supposed to be 2 x cr2016 which will give you 6v... a cr2032 will work but not as long...
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Yeah both the flip key and the older 2 button one both take 2 batteries. The early one also as a contact plate that goes between each of the batteries.
hainez, if a circuit needs 6V it isn't going to work with 3V. If your key needs 2xCR2016, then a single CR2032 isn't going to be any use at all.
I presume you're talking about the older flip key too? Mine uses a single battery, 3V CR2032
My cordy on a 2000 plate had 2 batteries in a non flip key.
Whatever was in it when it worked, replace like for like. Now the 2016's cost me £4.00 for two. The 2032 cost me 39p each so I bought two. And my fob had one 2032 in it. Mines a non flip for a 52 plate. Not sure how long its going to last though. But i thnk i'll take the 2016's back.
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