cuprapete

Active Member
Feb 18, 2010
193
0
Damp Devon
Hi all, was wondering if you could cast your eyes over these and see if there is anything abnormal at all. I did a bit of searching and from one of the previous threads it appears you need these blocks together to get an idea of things. These were all done in 3rd gear.

First is 002 and 020

2n07rsx.jpg


Now 115 and 118

2gtrsas.jpg


And finally 002 and 031

2dkzq7a.png
 
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mass airflow readings work out around 262 hp, I see your running stage 2 mods. how comes you didn't go for stage 2? personally I think you should see higher figures with all those mods. maybe a stage 2 map is needed?
 
mass airflow readings work out around 262 hp, I see your running stage 2 mods. how comes you didn't go for stage 2? personally I think you should see higher figures with all those mods. maybe a stage 2 map is needed?

I didn't want to sacrifice reliability going with a stage two map for the sake of another 15bhp
 
well run it on either v power or tesco momentum, get thos cf down a bit bud,

no point in buying a through bred n feeding it ****!
 
That would probably explain the lack of power for the mods. You should see around 5-10 hp with super unleaded. what was it mapped on? these cars are recommended to use 98+ from factory and I personally wouldn't run a mapped turbo car on anything less. I've seen a few people with healthy stage 1/2 cars on here before that have bent or thrown a rod, when asked what fuel they use they say 95 octane. Sometimes the quality of fuel can be a contributory factor.
 
Fair enough, I will run on vpower from now on then in that case.

Stupid question alert. What are cf's? Which block measures them? and what should they be reading if mine are high?
 
thats stage 2 level of boost!
stick some 99ul in there, that timing pulls a little high

020 shows Cf.. you dont want to see more than 6's as rule of thumb, and less is better...

turbos pretty much flat out....
 
Cfs stands for correction factors.
Basically it's the ECU adjusting your ignition timing. In your case for the worst as you have 95 octane so the ECU is pulling the timing back (retarding) causing you to lose power.
 
thats stage 2 level of boost!
stick some 99ul in there, that timing pulls a little high

020 shows Cf.. you dont want to see more than 6's as rule of thumb, and less is better...

turbos pretty much flat out....

Thanks for the reply, the car certainly feels quick so I would agree with he stage 2 level of boost!!

I am almost empty so will be stopping off at shell on the way home tomorrow!

I havent done the N249 bypass but am considering doing it, would this help me out at all?
Is there anything on the logs that would explain the strange squealing noise I get on full boost between 2500-3000 rpm?
Am I suffering from a boost leak at all?
Is there anything I can do to further increase the performance of the car? Would fitting colder plugs help me?
 
Cfs stands for correction factors.
Basically it's the ECU adjusting your ignition timing. In your case for the worst as you have 95 octane so the ECU is pulling the timing back (retarding) causing you to lose power.

ok got you, that makes sense. I will be filling up with shell now then. Is shell vpower 98, 99 or 100 ron?
 
Thanks for the reply, the car certainly feels quick so I would agree with he stage 2 level of boost!!

I am almost empty so will be stopping off at shell on the way home tomorrow!

I havent done the N249 bypass but am considering doing it, would this help me out at all?
Is there anything on the logs that would explain the strange squealing noise I get on full boost between 2500-3000 rpm?
Am I suffering from a boost leak at all?
Is there anything I can do to further increase the performance of the car? Would fitting colder plugs help me?
n249 will remove a lot of messy pipework on top of the engine so your essentially removing any potential for vacuum/boost leaks. I found my boost holds out for longer when I did mine.

colder plugs are recommended on mapped LCRs. I believe NGK heat range 7s are the ones to go for. could give the car a full service if its been a while that could help. also replacing all boost hoses with silicone ones which again can eliminate any future problems with boost leaks as the pipework is getting old, could replace the PCV system with a catch tank, this will stop oil vapours getting dumped back into your engine which affects the octane rating of the fuel and futher improve your CFs. doing both the boost hoses and the PCV hoses you will have ruled out any possibility of leaks

ok got you, that makes sense. I will be filling up with shell now then. Is shell vpower 98, 99 or 100 ron?
shell is 99 now
 
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I will be doing the N249 for sure. The car was fully serviced before the remap and it gets new oil every 4k. I will try the colder plugs change the boost hoses and see what difference there is. I suspect the integrity of the red oem hose that goes to the hotside pipe so will be looking at changing that one first I think
 
Thanks for the reply, the car certainly feels quick so I would agree with he stage 2 level of boost!!

I am almost empty so will be stopping off at shell on the way home tomorrow!

I havent done the N249 bypass but am considering doing it, would this help me out at all?
Is there anything on the logs that would explain the strange squealing noise I get on full boost between 2500-3000 rpm?
Am I suffering from a boost leak at all?
Is there anything I can do to further increase the performance of the car? Would fitting colder plugs help me?


the squeal you hear is cavitation from too high boost too soon.. undersize TIP will cause this with an overly aggressive boost onset.

n249 wont do diddly.

smoke test to confirm boost leaks or any other vac.pcv leaks
 
the squeal you hear is cavitation from too high boost too soon.. undersize TIP will cause this with an overly aggressive boost onset.

n249 wont do diddly.

smoke test to confirm boost leaks or any other vac.pcv leaks

I have the SFS TIP. Would your TIP solve this issue or is it more a case that I have too high boost too soon and will always have that noise unless I got the map changed?
 
I have the SFS TIP. Would your TIP solve this issue or is it more a case that I have too high boost too soon and will always have that noise unless I got the map changed?

if you have 80mm TIP? then thats plenty for flow... if you hear a screach and not s chuffing noise on spool, thats more like a leak sound to me