Looking at buying this Toledo V5..

Bunjiweb

Guest
Hi Guys n Gals,

Been looking to replace my dying Toyota Celica and need something a bit more practical... Have been looking at a Seat Toledo V5 as it seems to be practical and very well priced...

(pic)
coral-frags.co.uk/ben/seattoledo.jpg
(pic)

Currently going for £1995 (but think I can get a better price), with FSH, 90K on the clock and all the bells and whistles!

Is there anything particular I should be looking for when I go to view it? Any known issues with MK2 Toledos that I should double check?

I have been told it has a good history, and it just needs a new alternator which is being fitted Monday before I go to view it.

Any help is greatly appreciated!

Ben
 
Feb 26, 2009
5,275
1
Wolverhampton
I can't quite see the reg plate, so I'm not sure what you're getting for your 2k. I'd expect a minimum 02 or 52? Those sills aren't standard, it's already got a spoiler which I consider compulsory for this type of saloon shape.

Check that it starts without applying any throttle with a cold engine, it might need a new MAF if so. Check it is absolutely smooth throughout the rev range, any hiccups may be a coil pack. Check for the carpets being wet, door seals may have failed. Try and check that all the bells and whistles work, but to check them all takes a long time! See if you can get more than 30mpg out of the fuel computer, if you can't then it might need a new temperature sensor. Check the radio works, in particular FM. Check there is a satnav CD in place if it's new enough to have got satnav (51+).

To be honest, they're so 'basic' in terms of engine and chassis layout that there isn't much really to look for. And most things (including all I've listed above) can be fitted with about £50 parts and half a day tinkering.

Oh yeah, and get as much tax as possible, I think it's gone above £200 for the year now?
 

Bunjiweb

Guest
It's a 2002 on a 52 plate.

The MAF is the air sensor right? So the only way to know if it is working is cold starts is it?

I'm in a Celica at the moment, and the Tax band is the same afaik, but i'm willing to pay the same tax band for a newer car with a bigger engine!

According to a website I was on earlier, Extra Urban is up to 44MPG which sounds to good to be true, It's bound to be more economical than my aging, broken celica, which drinks fuel and oil for breakfast!

I'd be looking to try get them to do me a deal with an extended warranty, MOT, and as much tax as I can, In the pictures it is priced at £2695, and they now have it at £1995, so I don't know how much more they will be willing to do, but I like a challenge!

Thanks again for the advice!

Ben
 

red040281

Active Member
Apr 10, 2010
50
0
you will never get 44mpg my best is 30 mpg but after driving a v5 im learning to live with that all toledo v5's are maximum spec and are awsome tanks
 
Feb 26, 2009
5,275
1
Wolverhampton
To be honest, whether the MAF is working or not, chances are you'll have to replace it within 50k miles. Both the air sensor and coilpacks should be considered consumable items, and will not last the lifetime of the car. The other way of checking it is if the car is running rough, and unplugging the air sensor makes it better, then chances are it's the air sensor.

30mpg is about my average, I have managed 40 once (a full tank at 55 mph, boy did the car not like it!). 26 is my absolute lowest for a tank, that was my first tank full when I'd just bought it. That was really fun!!!

Talking about oil consumption, mine doesn't consume any between 10k services, other people have seen very slight drops but in general an oil thirsty engine isn't good. But you won't see that on the test drive.

If it drives well, with no strange noises, and pulls like you'd expect (0-60 in 8ish seconds), then you should be fine.
 

Bunjiweb

Guest
Thanks again for the feedback, now I just need some diagrams so I know what I'm looking at! Can't wait to have the test drive, I hope the drive is as tidy as the rest of it. Will update on Monday, hopefully positive.

Ben
 

2manymadmonkeys

Guest
Have you got one yet

Mines a t reg v5 £1150 in fareham don't know if it's priced ok or not £2000 sounds alot to me?
 
Feb 26, 2009
5,275
1
Wolverhampton
A t reg is 1998 I believe? That's four years older, and a different engine model (150 vs 170) to the 52 plate. £1150 is about right if its in good condition, but so is 2k for the car he's looking at.
 

2manymadmonkeys

Guest
It 99 yes the 150 it's got nice 17" cupra alloys as well so hopefully goes soon will miss it
 
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Bunjiweb

Guest
I ended up buying it and am very happy with it! Got it for £1450 with a 1 yr warranty (after getting £500 trade in for my old car) and so far it has been a dream, but i'm still a little confused by all the electronic gadgetry!

Little squeak from the belt on the left of the engine bay, it looks like it connects the starter / alternator etc. to the engine, im guessing it just needs tightening a little bit to stop it squeaking?

Ben
 
Feb 26, 2009
5,275
1
Wolverhampton
It's got a tensioner on it, so it shouldn't need tightening. See if the squeaking stops when you switch the air con on, or try and identify at what point it's squeaking. Or perhaps see if it's rubbing on something?

And the gadgetry confusion never really stops, I don't think I've found all my gadgets yet! Only last week someone told me how to set up the reversing mirror, so I want to give that a go sometime.
 

Bunjiweb

Guest
Is the tensioner automatic or something that may need adjustment. Haven't tried seeing if the aircon stops it, pretty sure that it isn't rubbing.

The reason that I presumed it would be the alternator belt is that a new alternator was fitted as part of the service before I picked it up.

Ben
 
Feb 26, 2009
5,275
1
Wolverhampton
From memory it's a spring loaded tensioner, mounted a the top left of the engine near the front. It might be worth seeing if it is still spring loaded, although mine is so tight it's almost unmovable.

It is quite reasonable to assume that the belt is the cause, especially if it's been disturbed. I think the process for the alternator replacement is to retract and lock off the tensioner, then replace the parts. It may be the tensioner wasn't happy about being retracted, and is now not applying adequate tension.
 
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