when i did my redline shoot we did timed runs i got a 8.44 0-60 and it was raining really bad mines running 180bhp 310 lbft never had any problems its on 92k now
 
ok so I called the garage that is supposed to do the remap for me and asked them loads of question. Main result of the conversation was that PD130 remap without FMIC makes very little sense. They said that on the second DYNO run the intake temp. goes above 90 degrees celcius and the higher is gets the less Bhp and Torque there is - which may be a big issue around summer.

Never thought of that before. May this really be an issue?
 
remove your o/s/f fog light gets more air to intercooler or save up £500 and get a seat sports intercooler.

mine went in to limp mode once when i was running a cheaper map and standard intercooler since fittin a seat sports inter cooler its never done it.
 
well today I went for a test drive with my friend who showed me how ASZ with FMIC + Remap drives. He also presented me results of 1/4 mile -> around 14.5 and 0-100 in around 7 second on 15" wheels. Amazing. For now I decided not to do the remap -> I have an arrangement with a company that will do both Fmic + Remap right after winter. So for now this topic is kind of closed ;) and through winter I'll change my pre-facelift ASZ into pre-facelift FR.
Thanks for help.
 
@Seatmann - 200's a bit ambitous from the 90 model haha the non PD engines are a bit trickyer to tune than the newer PD's, but after a turbo swap (the 150 turbo, or better still: hybrid), fmic, injector swap, filet, exhaust and remap... yeah im sure the 200bhp mark wouldn't be too far off. but then your talking big bucks! :( don't forget your clutch will never take that sort of power either! and of course 200 bhp is a little harder to stop than 90, so big brakes for sure :)

I beg to differ, 250WHP from a '94 TDi engine is proof enough.

Have you thought about engine transplant. Stick the 150PD lump in there....

Why, 1 point of compression is not going to make a difference this side of 280hp, unless your tuner is crap. the 90hp engines have seen 300hp in finland with stock bottom ends!!

It begs the question why not start from a 150PD starting point i.e. all the talk of FMIC etc?

as above, and the fact the Golf 150 i/c wont fit an ibiza.

The ibiza Cupra has better ratios for sprinting so 0-60 compared to the sport will be better, i think they can hit it in second. Sport's have super long ratios, good for the motorway but that's about it!!!!
 
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Why, 1 point of compression is not going to make a difference this side of 280hp, unless your tuner is crap. the 90hp engines have seen 300hp in finland with stock bottom ends!!
Simple, probably work out cheaper and he will have the advantages of a new technology engine.

I seen engines for as little as £700.
 
newer tech compared to a 130? not really mate, compared to VE, yes but newer is not always better. My VE will rev to 6k and still pull, a PD wont.

I have a PD150 engine for sale but i would never sell it to anyone who want to upgrade from a perfectly working PD130 no matter how much they offered, lol!!

It would not be simple really, a couple of days labour and £700 wasted, lol
 
i've seen 170 bhp from a pd130 engine just with a remap nothing else


The truth has been spoken, the KKK turbo on the Ibiza/Fabia/Polo’s are not as happy at any power level as the Garrett equivalent BTW so watch for boost spikes and smokey tunes, smoke is not power!!

Ryan
 
newer tech compared to a 130? not really mate, compared to VE, yes but newer is not always better. My VE will rev to 6k and still pull, a PD wont.

I have a PD150 engine for sale but i would never sell it to anyone who want to upgrade from a perfectly working PD130 no matter how much they offered, lol!!

It would not be simple really, a couple of days labour and £700 wasted, lol
I didnt realise the tdi sport was a 130. I thought the chap had a tdi 90.

I retract all my previous statements then.

EDIT: just read back through the thread and obviously didnt read it properly first time round.
 
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So its a PD130 rather than a TDi 90?

If that's the case then why is there this thread? there must be weeks and weeks worth of threads to source required info and some :confused:

Glad I wasn't the only one going down the wrong lane either.
 
the reason for this tread is that I'm literally paranoid when it comes to increasing engines power and I needed to ensure myself that turning PD130/310 into 170/380 with FMIC is safe... :)
 
mine RR'ed at about 180bhp and 300lbs torque with following

P-torque stage 1 remap
Milltek turbo-back exhaust/ decat
Pd160 intake
Green panel filter

plus its lowered 50mm and spaced...doesnt affect spped/acceleration but looks good
 
the reason for this tread is that I'm literally paranoid when it comes to increasing engines power and I needed to ensure myself that turning PD130/310 into 170/380 with FMIC is safe... :)

180hp and 300lbs/ft is easily achieved on the 130PD. There is no need to go to the expense of an intercooler unless you change the turbo.

After this, anything up to 250hp is possible, depending on budget, and what you wish to acheive.

As Knight85 mentions above, a turbo back system and remap will get strong figures straight away.

When going further than 290 - 300lbs/ft torque, the first mod has to be an uprated clutch.
 
my pd130 fr was mapped by angel tuning. went for a stage 1 to get better mpg. it give me 163bhp and 240 torque. doesnt smoke its tits off in boost and gives me 200 mile to twenty quid. good investment but uprate ya clutch
 
you wont need FMIC unless u go stage 2...then u will need uprated clutch, full exhaust system and new air intake,...with a simple map you will see 160+ at least...

however, ur current clutch will be on spent time...i have had mine since about 10k and its currently 40k and no worries as of yet