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Manual Cupra owners, what is your clutch like?

QTom

Active Member
Sep 22, 2017
19
1
I recently bought a 2017 Cupra 300, I like the car but one thing I found is that the clutch biting point seems very high? On mine it feels like it doesn't bite at all until about 75-80% up. I know it varies by car but it seems quite extreme so I am just wondering if this is normal? The car only has 20k miles so I would hope the clutch isn't knackered.

I just assumed that's how it is however a few days ago (less than 2 weeks after buying it) when I went to leave work I found that although the car turned on normally and all seemed fine, after putting down the clutch I was unable to put the car into gear. Roadside assistance came the next day (I live nearby so just got a lift) at which point the issue had fixed itself, however they took it back anyway to look at it.

The AA guy who came said it's likely due to driving through water (I had gone through quite a deep puddle that day) and it was just the clutch "sticking" which sounds possible but still presumably not normal. It's probably nothing serious, but with a car I'd just bought it doesn't fill you with confidence.

But anyway, just wondering if other owners have any input on the situation? Thanks.
 

leigh.saunders

Active Member
Mar 31, 2019
29
24
I've got a 2016 290 manual, the clutch started to slipping at 17k. Changed it for an uprated one and now at 30k with no issues.

The original clutch is known for being made of dairy milk.

Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk
 

CupraGeezer

Active Member
May 11, 2018
262
108
I think it's well known that SEAT cut corners when selecting the clutch for the manual Cupra. Those components were originally designed for the Mk7 Golf GTi, which "only" has 220 PS. The Cupra has another 60 to 80 PS on top of that so really should have had a stronger unit.
 

rob280

Active Member
Oct 27, 2019
72
35
Mine is ok for now. 2014 cupra 280. 28000 miles on the clock.
I did have slip when changing gear fast and giving it some but done the clutch delay valve delete and return spring removal and all seems well at the moment. Clutch pedal biting high is normal and feels good.

Sent from my SM-A405FN using Tapatalk
 

Wings988

Active Member
Oct 27, 2011
487
48
Derbyshire
Mine is fine after 23k, bite point is low in the travel and to my foot feels the same as new. I don't do traffic light Gp's on a regular basis, drive the car like you own it and it will be fine. A re-map will need a new up-rated clutch from what I've read online but I find standard power more than adequate. The 1st thing I'd upgrade on a standard car is the brakes, I've had mine to the point of struggling a little but not complete fade and that's on twisty B road, next would be suspension. Even with standard power these cars will easily get to 150mph, For my use more power is not required, 70mph speed limit.
 

Charliessmith

Active Member
Jun 16, 2017
367
33
I've got a Cupra 290 2016 and I had to change my clutch because it began to slip around 20K miles, I have modified the car and I'm running stage 1 so I upgraded the clutch for a Sachs sports clutch with an organic friction plate, has been fine ever since and I'm on 55k miles now.
I also upgraded the flywheel to a Sachs flywheel.

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Last edited:
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paddy6789

Mk3 Cupra R
Staff member
Moderator
Aug 31, 2016
1,565
973
Preston, Lancs
I’ve posted the below on another thread - forgive my laziness but I’m currently on my phone and not my laptop haha.

I'm now on my 4th clutch (including the stock clutch). I went to RacingLine OEM+ Stage one on my stock clutch and had no issues. However I didnt exactly push the car as I read up that people who remapped their cars and had the clutch slip, needed to replace the flywheel, and I was saving up to upgrade the clutch anyway. It paid off as when the stock clutch came off, the flywheel was in perfect condition. I upgraded to the Helix Organic clutch and had issues almost immediately. It was deemed to be a manufacturers defect and was replaced with another Helix Organic. However when the Helix came off, it had taken chunks out of my flywheel so I needed a new one of those. Luckily Helix foot the bill as it was their clutch defect that took it out. A few weeks later, the clutch was slipping again, and went through the exact same process. (I had also followed the Helix recommended bedding in process too on both clutches). The car was not full throttled or put under any hard acceleration on either of these clutches. I had lost faith in Helix so switched to the new RTS Twin Friction clutch which is miles better in my opinion. It has an almost stock feel in the pedal and I've had no slippage. I've had the clutch delay valve removed also, and I will be upgrading to the braided line (which I should have done at the time of the clutch upgrade really). I went to stage 2 a month or so after getting the clutch, I had covered 2000 miles of careful driving and then when I was satisified the bedding period and criteria was met, I tested the car. My god, what a difference it is. I went on the SCN/PP rolling road day and my stage 2 put out 630nm / 465lb ft of torque. The clutch just lapped it all up and showed no sign of letting up. I'm now stage 3, and again, the clutch feels more than capable of coping. However, I will be upgrading to the RTS paddle clutch, which I have felt the pedal of in another Cupra, and it again still feels like the stock clutch. I'm only upgrading as I'm sure my torque levels are at the very limit of the clutch I have now, and I dont want to get another flywheel.


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Brackett

Active Member
May 12, 2019
130
19
For those whose clutches have failed, did you try (and anyone succeed??) in getting a warranty replacement?

Did you just go for non-OEM after being refused a warranty replacement?
 

Charliessmith

Active Member
Jun 16, 2017
367
33
For those whose clutches have failed, did you try (and anyone succeed??) in getting a warranty replacement?

Did you just go for non-OEM after being refused a warranty replacement?
I had a warranty replacement first but started slipping after 10k miles so upgraded the clutch and flywheel to a Sachs performance clutch with a organic friction plate and Sachs flywheel.

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
 
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Janusz

Active Member
Oct 4, 2018
137
43
I’ve posted the below on another thread - forgive my laziness but I’m currently on my phone and not my laptop haha.

I'm now on my 4th clutch (including the stock clutch). I went to RacingLine OEM+ Stage one on my stock clutch and had no issues. However I didnt exactly push the car as I read up that people who remapped their cars and had the clutch slip, needed to replace the flywheel, and I was saving up to upgrade the clutch anyway. It paid off as when the stock clutch came off, the flywheel was in perfect condition. I upgraded to the Helix Organic clutch and had issues almost immediately. It was deemed to be a manufacturers defect and was replaced with another Helix Organic. However when the Helix came off, it had taken chunks out of my flywheel so I needed a new one of those. Luckily Helix foot the bill as it was their clutch defect that took it out. A few weeks later, the clutch was slipping again, and went through the exact same process. (I had also followed the Helix recommended bedding in process too on both clutches). The car was not full throttled or put under any hard acceleration on either of these clutches. I had lost faith in Helix so switched to the new RTS Twin Friction clutch which is miles better in my opinion. It has an almost stock feel in the pedal and I've had no slippage. I've had the clutch delay valve removed also, and I will be upgrading to the braided line (which I should have done at the time of the clutch upgrade really). I went to stage 2 a month or so after getting the clutch, I had covered 2000 miles of careful driving and then when I was satisified the bedding period and criteria was met, I tested the car. My god, what a difference it is. I went on the SCN/PP rolling road day and my stage 2 put out 630nm / 465lb ft of torque. The clutch just lapped it all up and showed no sign of letting up. I'm now stage 3, and again, the clutch feels more than capable of coping. However, I will be upgrading to the RTS paddle clutch, which I have felt the pedal of in another Cupra, and it again still feels like the stock clutch. I'm only upgrading as I'm sure my torque levels are at the very limit of the clutch I have now, and I dont want to get another flywheel.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
630nm? Stage 3 700?
 

paddy6789

Mk3 Cupra R
Staff member
Moderator
Aug 31, 2016
1,565
973
Preston, Lancs
What are the specs that you pull 630nm?
At the time on the Unicorn dyno:

RacingLine OEM+ stage 2 software
RacingLine FMIC
Scorpion Sports cat downpipe
RacingLine R600
VAGSport intake hose
VAGSport turbo elbow
VAGSport muffler delete
RacingLine Oil Cooler
RS7 spark plugs
RS3 Coil packs
VAGSport res delete

I’ve since added:
RacingLine oil management
RacingLine Hybrid Turbo
Autotech HPFP
RacingLine OEM+ stage 3 software


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 

Janusz

Active Member
Oct 4, 2018
137
43
At the time on the Unicorn dyno:

RacingLine OEM+ stage 2 software
RacingLine FMIC
Scorpion Sports cat downpipe
RacingLine R600
VAGSport intake hose
VAGSport turbo elbow
VAGSport muffler delete
RacingLine Oil Cooler
RS7 spark plugs
RS3 Coil packs
VAGSport res delete

I’ve since added:
RacingLine oil management
RacingLine Hybrid Turbo
Autotech HPFP
RacingLine OEM+ stage 3 software


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
So you pulled 630nm on stock is38.charger?
 

Janusz

Active Member
Oct 4, 2018
137
43
I did. Here my graph from the Unicorn dyno, which is known to be a ‘heart breaker’ due to how harsh it is.




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Normally you get 600nm when you pass 2bar of boost and get 500hp.
So this one is quite funny :)
 

paddy6789

Mk3 Cupra R
Staff member
Moderator
Aug 31, 2016
1,565
973
Preston, Lancs
Normally you get 600nm when you pass 2bar of boost and get 500hp.
So this one is quite funny :)
Yeah it shocked a few people on the day. It’s been logged and checked by RacingLine who have confirmed everything is ok and safe :)


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