My First Leak(s), Tested - Under Inlet Mani Hoses (LCR)

JamJay

California Bound
Hi all, well I'm joining the club for boost leaks. I leak tested the car again today and what I couldn't hear before or what was less evident is now hissing away...under the inlet manifold.

So, here we are with my tyre pump and DIY boost leak tester made from a Vitamin C pot and the top of a spray can lid.

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I blocked off the PCV pipe that goes back into the TIP with a bung of some sort that I found.

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I pressurised the system through the top IC hose and heard a loud hissing side coming from the cam cover breather hose, this is what I found...

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The hose isn't split but the single use OE clip had come loose and allowed air to leak around the hockey puck connector. I replaced the clip with a jubilee and all is well.

I again pressurised the system to a max of 10psi and I hear another loud hiss. This time it is coming from under the inlet manifold. I think I can rule out the hosr that connects to the N249 and also the FPR as I see no splits but lok here, bubbles coming from some sort of plastic Y-Piece of hose...

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There is also a hiss coming from the same area, I believe from the same hose actually so I want to replace all of this. It connects from a nipple under the middle of the inlet manifold and then at the Y-Piece branches off to connect to one part of the cam cover breather hose and the other part shoots off round the back of the engine somewhere. What is this hose and what have you replaced yours with? I am guessing the the Y-Piece is a genuine part only, is it common for this to crack as it looks plastic to me and not rubber. There is also no clip around the area of the leak to suggest a connection to a rubber hose.

While I am at it I will also replace the vacuum hose for the N249 & also the FPR hose, which hoses did you use for this?
 
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8bit

Active Member
Feb 11, 2010
3,380
3
Aberdeen
I've got oily crap all over the same Y-piece you have mate, I've just ordered the Forge breather kit, the one that has three little bits of silicone, with the clamps for that. Whole lot came to about £40 off the Forge website, including delivery, with the SCN discount.

I also did the N249 (well, bypassed it) and the FPR hose recently, 4mm inside-diameter silicone, think 2m will cover it but I got three to be sure and have some for other things. These can be held in place sufficiently with cable ties. Be warned, they're a proper pain to change, being under the intake mani.
 

JamJay

California Bound
Thanks for the info :). Is the y-piece plastic or rubber and has yours cracked? Where the bubble are coming from on mine are before the clip that you can see so I am unsure of how it is leaking.

I remember reading your thread about and issue that you had...did replacing all these hoses cure it?
 

wayne lcr

bored of it now
Mar 5, 2009
4,548
0
doncaster
get rid of it all jay they are prone for leaking ive total removed all that from under there its easy to do then you can run things straight off the manni (i.e) boost gauge ,dv,fpr. i ant got no pics when i did mine but sam byrannt as pics not sure if its in is build thread you dont need hardley any thing but the price to replace most of it will cost a fair bit. good way to fit a catch can while your messing under there as well mate.
 

8bit

Active Member
Feb 11, 2010
3,380
3
Aberdeen
Thanks for the info :). Is the y-piece plastic or rubber and has yours cracked? Where the bubble are coming from on mine are before the clip that you can see so I am unsure of how it is leaking.

I remember reading your thread about and issue that you had...did replacing all these hoses cure it?

Which issue? I've had many, and many more still ongoing :) Still got a funny noise and suspected slight boost leak which I think are the breather ones connected into that Y-piece, just discovered that it was caked in oily crap recently when I was changing the N249 and FPR hoses. If that's blowing oily crap out then it'll be leaking boost too, and maybe making the funny noise.

Wayne, have you got a guide for removing all that PCV stuff?
 

JamJay

California Bound
The suspected leak is what I meant. Ah ok so you haven't replaced it it, I think that these leaks are the cause of my car feeling a little sluggish amongst other things which I've found anyway and fixed anyway.

The forge kit looks like just what I need (http://www.forgemotorsport.co.uk/content.asp?inc=product&cat=190202&product=FMTTBH) but it's very expensive for just 3 small hoses :(. You say it comes with hose clamps?
 

DJ-LIAMC

VAGisclean
May 31, 2009
621
0
Loughborough
i recently got rid of all mine and replaced with catch can. Car feels much better.

Before pcv Removal (Bad pic)
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After removal + catch can installed
IMG_0305.jpg


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And no Fault codes (yet)
 
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JamJay

California Bound
Brilliant pics, thanks Liam.

I've left that metal panel off that connects to the dipstick tube while I fix this, will this be ok do you think?

I had to unplug the EGT sensor connector while I removed this and I believe it has cause me to get the following code after I didn't clip it back on fully...

17864 - Exhaust Gas Temp Regulation for Bank 1: Limit Reached
P1456 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent

I haven't had this code throughout the entire time that I've been having issues although I do know that my mapping is causing my injectors to max, therefore could be raising EGTs...but that's up for discussion after Stage 2.
 

sambryant

RoadRunner meep meep
Mar 26, 2009
4,845
2
Bristol
jayson, you are better off fitting a catch can and removing the pcv valve, its cheaper and no more leaks for you. you wont make that kit up as both ends to each piece are different sizes, so inlet of 10mm and out lets of 7mm hope that make sense.
 

JamJay

California Bound
Cheers Sam, ah well not to worry. I'm not sure if I want to fit a catch can though as the space it would need to go is reserved for an MBC. By the looks of it, it's the hoses that connect to the Y-piece that are leaking so replacing these with silicone and more durable clips should sort it for good, right?
 

DJ-LIAMC

VAGisclean
May 31, 2009
621
0
Loughborough
I was unsure whether fo fit a catch can at first because of all the pipes that are there for a reason will be gone. But went ahead beacause couldn't be Doing with replacing all different parts , glad I did now seems to run much better idles lovely now.
 

Ronin225

Active Member
Jan 17, 2008
4,647
22
Worcester
Cheers Sam, ah well not to worry. I'm not sure if I want to fit a catch can though as the space it would need to go is reserved for an MBC. By the looks of it, it's the hoses that connect to the Y-piece that are leaking so replacing these with silicone and more durable clips should sort it for good, right?

Time to look at moving the battery maybe?
Its what i did and the room it made it unbelievable
 

offitmassive

Guest
Cheers Sam, ah well not to worry. I'm not sure if I want to fit a catch can though as the space it would need to go is reserved for an MBC. By the looks of it, it's the hoses that connect to the Y-piece that are leaking so replacing these with silicone and more durable clips should sort it for good, right?

check my post called different catch can lay out mate, i had a hissing under the inlet manifold, so after a few different forums, ive figured out what to do, read the posts on that thread and ul soon see what to do mate, catch can is £20 + £6 postage, and the hoses need to be oil resistant silicone hoses, kits are available for £20, and all those split hoses will be done with then..
 

rsmith

Robbie
Apr 28, 2004
2,796
1
Tipperary, Ireland
JamJay, be sure it isn't actually the Y-piece value, AKA Suction jet pump 058 133 753B that is not leaking, i replaced all the hoses under the manifold and still had the hissing, turns out the Y-piece value was leaking air.
 

wayne lcr

bored of it now
Mar 5, 2009
4,548
0
doncaster
it will cost about 3 quid to sort all that out mate and stop all the leaks for ever and since i moved me brake booster as well the car is so much smoother.