turbod

Active Member
Feb 9, 2014
157
0
North East
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Morning people I have just bought this tdi 130 ? fr and wondered if anyone could shed some light for me ..... The car i think has either been re mapped or chipped as it absolutely flies, feels quicker than my st170 which it has replaced, but how do I tell ? I do have a vw audi obd fault code reader and not sure if this would give me any info

also this car is classed as a mk 4 right ?

the snagging list so far is as follows
Cup holder stuck in ..... Just about to remove it this morning and try and soak it and jemmy it open or replace ....
Climate control display Doesn't display which vents are open or closed ..... scrappy at 9am to try and get one
seat catches come off in my hand when trying to get the seat forward ..... #annoying
doors automatically lock when they feel like it and the interior light doesn't come on when opening the door ? microswitch on door ?
water in the boot ..... I'm guessing bust washer pipe for the rear wiper
Arb bushes knocking their tits off .....Ordered and got to pick them up this morning, also a loud crack when reversing around a corner or when initially pulling off
rear discs and pads are mullered ...... also get some new this morning
oil & filter change ...... also today

any advice on above problems or a point in the right direction much appreciated
 
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For the remap - look through all the papers, it is very difficult to tell if it has or hasn't without knowing who might have done it.

Yes this is a MK4 on here, although Seat call it a MK3.

The cup holder - pretty common as it is all plastic, you may find it has broken, just find one at the local scrappy and take that otherwise.

The doors and light, does the light work if you switch it to always on and not when the door is open?? With the ignition on, does the dash show if the door is open (try both) and the boot?? If the dash does not show one or both doors, it is likely there is a break in the wire or broken switches in the door. This is linked to the random locking of the doors, when you unlock the car, if you don't open a door or the boot in X time, it will lock again.

As for the water, most likely what you have suggested, but check around the rear light clusters too.
 
aye

Didn't get any history with the car as the lad didn't give any of it and I bought it from a part ex place CHEAP....

Managed to get a new cup holder and trim for below the glove box from the scrappy for a fiver

Also got new rear discs pads oil and filter and arb bushes earlier for £65 .... Still to fit

Also had to order digital climate control off eBay for twenty quid delivered as the other ones lcd screen was failing and you couldn't make out which vents were selected hardly at all

Tried the drivers door and passenger door with the ignition on and the interior light comes on then when the doors are closed the light is permanently on but just lit very dim and don't go off at all .... Think there's a short in the roof switch
When all doors are open and the boot with the ignition on the door open light on still doesn't illuminate ?

Aye thanks I'll have a look in the boot for water ingress as it's just pissed down here
 
Hello mate
The pd130 engine can be remapped straight to 190bhp with no engine mods. Also diesels have a lot higher torque, basically pulling power. Ibiza cupra at 190bhp and diesel at 190bhp, both doing 100mph then foot down and diesel will pull away from the cupra.
Electrical issue could be bad earth, possible corroded terminals from water. Check sockets to lights etc, clean if needed.


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Hello mate
The pd130 engine can be remapped straight to 190bhp with no engine mods. Also diesels have a lot higher torque, basically pulling power. Ibiza cupra at 190bhp and diesel at 190bhp, both doing 100mph then foot down and diesel will pull away from the cupra.
Electrical issue could be bad earth, possible corroded terminals from water. Check sockets to lights etc, clean if needed.


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Yeah mate that's what I'd heard but some have said that you need a front mounted intercooler for any more than 150 bhp ....

Yes I'll have a look at the door to pillar connectors to start with
Am I right in thinking you have to take the steel door plate and window mechanism out to get at the door locks ? Just seems strange that the boot open indicator isn't working either

Thanks for all the advice do far people :clap:
 
Yeah mate that's what I'd heard but some have said that you need a front mounted intercooler for any more than 150 bhp ....

Yes I'll have a look at the door to pillar connectors to start with
Am I right in thinking you have to take the steel door plate and window mechanism out to get at the door locks ? Just seems strange that the boot open indicator isn't working either

Thanks for all the advice do far people :clap:
Whilst i was working at SEAT deslership My cuzon purchased a new 08 FR Ibiza n had to do 1000 miles before remap. Nothing modded. It simular speed to my leon FR tdi 240bhp.
Boot light possibly water pipe that leaking in tailgate as other bloke said around led brake light in top of tailgate.
Sorry I have never done door covers on Ibiza but you might be able to gain access by removing speakers and material section and may see door lock as i can on my leon also have a feel around for connections or loose wires in side door.

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Whilst i was working at SEAT deslership My cuzon purchased a new 08 FR Ibiza n had to do 1000 miles before remap. Nothing modded. It simular speed to my leon FR tdi 240bhp.
Boot light possibly water pipe that leaking in tailgate as other bloke said around led brake light in top of tailgate.
Sorry I have never done door covers on Ibiza but you might be able to gain access by removing speakers and material section and may see door lock as i can on my leon also have a feel around for connections or loose wires in side door.

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Cool .... When I get the car driving properly I'll try and get it on a dyno and see exactly how much poke it really has.... Already looked at the air filter and it's standard and dirty and the oil is pretty bad, the fuel filter also looks like it's been on for a good while... So first thing first I'll get these rear discs pads on arb bushes on (the drop links look pretty new and no play, he probably changed them thinking that was the knock) then dump the shite oil out.
The biggest problem I have with it at the moment is the front seems to torque steer to the left and the Bridgestone tyres on the front seem to resonate at about 40 mph and are rubbish in the wet... It's pulling to the left so tracking needs doing asap, just can't tell if there's any other knocks yet because the arb is knocking very badly. Just put the cup holder in and my Sony, replaced the broken plastic cover below the glove box now, so you can actually open the glove box wider than a letterbox, and the kid who had the car before me also fitted led interior lights that were faulty causing the light to be constantly on so sorted that with a normal bulb.

The light I was on about for the boot was the dash light telling you that the boot is open
 
Cool .... When I get the car driving properly I'll try and get it on a dyno and see exactly how much poke it really has.... Already looked at the air filter and it's standard and dirty and the oil is pretty bad, the fuel filter also looks like it's been on for a good while... So first thing first I'll get these rear discs pads on arb bushes on (the drop links look pretty new and no play, he probably changed them thinking that was the knock) then dump the shite oil out.
The biggest problem I have with it at the moment is the front seems to torque steer to the left and the Bridgestone tyres on the front seem to resonate at about 40 mph and are rubbish in the wet... It's pulling to the left so tracking needs doing asap, just can't tell if there's any other knocks yet because the arb is knocking very badly. Just put the cup holder in and my Sony, replaced the broken plastic cover below the glove box now, so you can actually open the glove box wider than a letterbox, and the kid who had the car before me also fitted led interior lights that were faulty causing the light to be constantly on so sorted that with a normal bulb.

The light I was on about for the boot was the dash light telling you that the boot is open

Got a big project then sorting that out.
Be careful you don't melt turbo!!!!!
Air getting blocked starves turbo of fresh cool air means it over heats like my cuzons did. Needed new turbo. Recommend k & N filter element that fits in existing air box, as for dash light, that could be switch or sensor in tailgate got wet and corroded. Not sure if Ibiza has 3 brass connector plates on lip of boot which connect to tailgate when closed. If so they may be dirty so not making connection when tailgate closed. You will get torque steer with remapped version. Also check engine mounts as he has had driver side one snap due to traction control jerking engine. My leon kills gearbox side mount. Both have crap designed mounts. Also check dog leg mount as that knocks aswell. Can notice when work when letting off after hard accelerating. U feel engine move before slows down. I'd check cam belt aswell, if car in that bad a condition, guarantee The belt need changing should be done at 90 000 miles.
So I'd say do tracking
Change air filter and bushes
Check cam belt and mounts
And I get same whining with my Bridgestones gonna try Pirelli

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You've done simular to me in buying one cheap and fix it up..
I have leon FR tdi 2.0 pd170. Purchased for 3000 with Smokey turbo. All diesels smoke lol fitted K&n element into original air box as they already set up with cold air induction.
I changed all front bushes to powerflex except top mounts as they don't do them and ARB as they fitted to bar. Rear has powerflex except top arm that adjusts camber as low on funds. I've changed steering rack twice as electric are shite, but have worked out that alternator regulator was naff giving 14v peaking at 16.8 that melted battery. New alternater. New lower front ball joints, discs and pads front. I stiffened dog bone bush with u shaped metal plate to take up slack. Replaced gearbox mount 4 times as kept knocking after 4 months. Uprated mount £134 Need to get. Then vaccumm pump changed, eBay part, but it was vaccumm pipes so now all silicone. Anti shudder valve died so was over revving on gear changes. Dual mass fly wheel badly worn. Got new one at £330 with clutch, didn't think about engine, as already mapped when Purchased, so new clutch can handle 410lb ft torque, but I now get clutch slip as I'm pushing 240 bhp and 460 lb ft torque. DPF, AGR deleted to get that power and CAT removed. But parts still on engine so I need to take them off. Twin port back box stainless, had to cut rear bumper. Has had complete front subframe changed due to slipping on Accelleration and deaccellaration.
I've get rear subframe to change over. Painted mirror covers black as FR's are grey. Painted front bumper, black parts as it was wrap that showed red around Edge that looked terrible also painted calipers and wheels. Carbon wrapped dash, bits of door trim. painted vents red. Painted Bottom steering wheel plastic black and gear knob. Fitted 2 kicker squares, power cap, amp, fuses and trip switch with Kenwood touch screen.
Need to recon turbo as oil leaks badly. Got the kit but found out it has to be balanced after recon. Still getting front subframe slipping and need single mass flywheel and clutch conversion so can take over 500 lb ft torque. For when and if I can afford turbo upgrade and injector upgrade. Want around 300 bhp. Do need massive intercooler aswell with solid pipe conversion first. Nearly forgot ABS pump as i have no TCS or ABS lol.So yeah loads done and still loads to do lol
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You've done simular to me in buying one cheap and fix it up..
I have leon FR tdi 2.0 pd170. Purchased for 3000 with Smokey turbo. All diesels smoke lol fitted K&n element into original air box as they already set up with cold air induction.
I changed all front bushes to powerflex except top mounts as they don't do them and ARB as they fitted to bar. Rear has powerflex except top arm that adjusts camber as low on funds. I've changed steering rack twice as electric are shite, but have worked out that alternator regulator was naff giving 14v peaking at 16.8 that melted battery. New alternater. New lower front ball joints, discs and pads front. I stiffened dog bone bush with u shaped metal plate to take up slack. Replaced gearbox mount 4 times as kept knocking after 4 months. Uprated mount £134 Need to get. Then vaccumm pump changed, eBay part, but it was vaccumm pipes so now all silicone. Anti shudder valve died so was over revving on gear changes. Dual mass fly wheel badly worn. Got new one at £330 with clutch, didn't think about engine, as already mapped when Purchased, so new clutch can handle 410lb ft torque, but I now get clutch slip as I'm pushing 240 bhp and 460 lb ft torque. DPF, AGR deleted to get that power and CAT removed. But parts still on engine so I need to take them off. Twin port back box stainless, had to cut rear bumper. Has had complete front subframe changed due to slipping on Accelleration and deaccellaration.
I've get rear subframe to change over. Painted mirror covers black as FR's are grey. Painted front bumper, black parts as it was wrap that showed red around Edge that looked terrible also painted calipers and wheels. Carbon wrapped dash, bits of door trim. painted vents red. Painted Bottom steering wheel plastic black and gear knob. Fitted 2 kicker squares, power cap, amp, fuses and trip switch with Kenwood touch screen.
Need to recon turbo as oil leaks badly. Got the kit but found out it has to be balanced after recon. Still getting front subframe slipping and need single mass flywheel and clutch conversion so can take over 500 lb ft torque. For when and if I can afford turbo upgrade and injector upgrade. Want around 300 bhp. Do need massive intercooler aswell with solid pipe conversion first. Nearly forgot ABS pump as i have no TCS or ABS lol.So yeah loads done and still loads to do lol
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Good call about the engine mount, my st snapped it's gearbox mount, quite common apparently nice car bud