My Ovni Yellow LCR **** - 210 Recaros Stage 2 SOLD AND BOUGHT BACK LOL

[ReDBull]

Well I did think that but it's time more than anything although I did see a polished one for sale on eBay was gonna buy that then polish mine bit by bit and sell that

I saw that on eBay. You should get in touch with a metal polisher if times tight and see how much they charge. It's got to be way less than £99 for the forge charge pipe.

 

[Ronin225]

I have a spare charge pipe

 

[t0m]

Didn't give it much due to weather,it not being warmed up and the little one in the back but you don't seem to get as much of a whistle on turbo in the cab. Also the dump is quieter I guess I just can't hear it in the cab as well due to it being further away.

Have You found this Tom?

Yeah mine seems to make less of a 'whoosh' than before but it's still there alright. The improvement in performance is much more important to me though than then noise now. So was that with the DV setup the way you did it or have you switched it to how my one is plumbed in?

Also on the charge pipe, don't bother with the Forge one, it's only de-baffled to be slightly less restrictive than the oem one, but you can de-baffle your own one with some patience and a chisel. Never done mine and won't now as I got mine polished by DK a while ago and don't want to ruin it! Certainly a cheaper route to maybe get Ronin's spare one, you could de baffle that then get it polished up
Also the finish on the Forge one wasn't very good.

 

[James23Parkin]

There's a de-baffle guide in my thread Seal. Really easy to do. With the charge pipe being an L shape, it's really an easy item to polish. Time wise, give yourself 2/3 hrs. Cost is £20 for the sisal polishing set, plus some sand paper for your sander. Nothing more satisfying than doing it yourself!

Great work on the cold side DV kit. Looks to sit perfectly!

 

[Seal_LCR]

There's a de-baffle guide in my thread Seal. Really easy to do. With the charge pipe being an L shape, it's really an easy item to polish. Time wise, give yourself 2/3 hrs. Cost is £20 for the sisal polishing set, plus some sand paper for your sander. Nothing more satisfying than doing it yourself!

Great work on the cold side DV kit. Looks to sit perfectly!

Thanks james.

Think you could point me in the right direction as I'm still working my way through your thread lol.

 

[Seal_LCR]

Yeah mine seems to make less of a 'whoosh' than before but it's still there alright. The improvement in performance is much more important to me though than then noise now. So was that with the DV setup the way you did it or have you switched it to how my one is plumbed in?

Also on the charge pipe, don't bother with the Forge one, it's only de-baffled to be slightly less restrictive than the oem one, but you can de-baffle your own one with some patience and a chisel. Never done mine and won't now as I got mine polished by DK a while ago and don't want to ruin it! Certainly a cheaper route to maybe get Ronin's spare one, you could de baffle that then get it polished up
Also the finish on the Forge one wasn't very good.

I switched it and ran it the same way as yours is sitting. I'm quite happy with the less cabin noise to be honest as I get tired of people who have no idea asking what it is and then I have to idiot proof the explanation lol.

Think if the eBay one comes at a good price ill buy that then polish mine and sell that, that way I can do it on my time and get the right finish

 

[Seal_LCR]

What grades did you use on yours james?

 

[James23Parkin]

I do write a lot of waffle don't I.. It's page 8, post #153.

With mine, I sanded back the paint using a 80 then 120 grit paper on an orbital sander, achieving a nice flat matt finish. I then used a metal polishing kit which I'll list in a minute. I never went down the route if 1500 to 2000 grit sanding as a method of polishing. Too much effort and time consuming. I get mega results every time as long as you've got a nice flat unmarked surface to start with.

 

[James23Parkin]

I do write a lot of waffle don't I.. It's page 8, post #153.

With mine, I sanded back the paint using a 80 then 120 grit paper on an orbital sander, achieving a nice flat matt finish. I then used a metal polishing kit which I'll list in a minute. I never went down the route if 1500 to 2000 grit sanding as a method of polishing. Too much effort and time consuming. I get mega results every time as long as you've got a nice flat unmarked surface to start with.

Here's the link:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12pc-All-Metal-Polishing-Kit-Belgom-Alu-250ml-/281008377865?pt=UK_Car_Accessories_Car_Care_Cleaning&hash=item416d679009

Its listing has ended but you can search the re-listing

 

[ReDBull]

Don't bother de baffling it. I can't imagine you'll get any noticeable performance increase but you'll get more noise from the turbo.

 

[Seal_LCR]

Thanks for the links james. Do think ill buy that eBay one then have a go on mine after to either get a better finish or a saleable finish but if the one I buy is in good condition I might not bother as I'm not very patient with things like that lol.

Maybe ill use it for therapy for those days I could strangle someone

 

[Seal_LCR]

Don't bother de baffling it. I can't imagine you'll get any noticeable performance increase but you'll get more noise from the turbo.

But forge do it so it must be the best thing like ever!!!

 

[t0m]

Forge did it not really for a performance gain, it's meant to help aid spool up lower down, but the difference will be marginal as said. I would have a go if you can do so on a spare, and the polishing as you've discussed with James.

I wouldn't pay £100 for a Forge one though.

 

[Seal_LCR]

Forge did it not really for a performance gain, it's meant to help aid spool up lower down, but the difference will be marginal as said. I would have a go if you can do so on a spare, and the polishing as you've discussed with James.

I wouldn't pay £100 for a Forge one though.

I'm of the same opinion £100 for a polished pipe? Nahhhh

I'm not gonna go as far as you guys have with the bay but the charge pipe and mani might get a polish. Would like to change the caps but again once you've replaced them all that could be my liquid gauge instead so maybe look at that in the future

 

[Seal_LCR]

The snow has finally cleared and the car hadn't seen anything other than a wash since last year and the tar up the car was getting on my nerves so I set about abit of a mini detail today

So I sent it to the Arabs to wash

This was the drivers door

And the boot

Could show you all the panels but that would be abit boring lol

So this was my clean

Autoglym intensive tar remover
Autoglym SRP
Autoglym extra gloss
Meguilars trim restorer (new product for plastics so thought I'd give it a go)
Meguilars tyre endurance gel
Autoglym rubber and vinyl care

And this was the results it's not to the same standard as some cars on here but it's clean enough for me

This was the door after de-tar and polish/wax

This was the boot

I had a spare 30mins before the missus went too mad and I found a couple of grades of sand paper so started having ago at the inlet

This is before

This was after! Still needs a lot more but it's better

 

[t0m]

Car looks good mate Nice work.

As the weather improves you'll soon end up spending loads more time under that bay cleaning nooks and crannies!

 

[cupra-barn]

Loving it mate....all I've done today is lost my temper with it and hammered the hell out of it coming back from Tims!

 

[Seal_LCR]

Cheers guys takes a lot for me to be arsed cleaning lately but some satisfaction now it's done

 

[Ronin225]

Looks good, i'll leave my protective layer of mud on mine

 

[ReDBull]

Me to, I go for the rally car look.